Just got my "new" '69 F250 CS delivered by a shipper from CA, PO said "it runs great!", but we barely got it started to drive it off the truck (driver had same problem getting it on), and now it only runs a little while on full choke, then dies and doesn't want to start until it cools off a little.

Engine looks either completely original with low miles, or it was well taken car of, all bone stock. But it also has all the hallmarks of being left to sit for a long time in the desert.

I pulled the fuel line to the carb and cranked it, lots of gas.

Then I looked down the throat, actuated the accel pumps, and NO SQUIRT!

That tells me the carb is old and the plungers are dry, and it runs on choke because it's sucking in gas from the choke plate being closed, but when it warms it gets rich and dies. As it is dying it DOES NOT respond to pumping the pedal.......because the accel pumps are not working.

In order to get it off the trucker's lot, do you think if I bolt on a rebuilt carb it should run, based on these symptoms?

Carb tag says "Autolite C9TF K" and in small letters under that: "B9E6".

 

Hard to say without being there and seeing it. You need to check for spark at the plugs, check/replace the points and condensor, check all the vacuum lines. You can pull, rebuild and reinstall that carb in about 3 hours and a rebuild kit is about $25 or less. Cost of a rebuilt carb is about $225 at least. I know you can take those back for another if they are defective, but don't know if you could take it back for a full refund. I'd do a basic tune up and rebuild the carb...or just drag it home with another truck.

 

2x with the above ^^^. I suggest reading the thread named "Reviving the Dead!" here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-the-dead.html

Carbs that are installed and rarely used dry out over time. The rubber nibs on the needles harden, fuel evaporates and all is left is a dusty mess, the accel. pump diaphram cracks, and sometimes little critters get in all sorts of strange places. I've done 30-minute, quick N dirty rebuild with a couple of cans of carb cleaner and a carb kit and managed to get the vehicle running and yes, driveable.

If you'd rather not deal with it, consider hiring a flatbed to have it delivered to your home. A case or two of beer can go real far....

 

no squirt
personally i'd buy a carb kit and just rebuild the accelerator pump (can do on engine) and see if she runs , then when/if home rebuild whole carb .

 

That or pull the carb rebuilt and bring it back the next day. Like stated easy to rebuilt. I would get a set of points and gauge just in case, cheap and you will need them at some point anyway. If I remember right gap is 17, correct me if wrong. Good luck!

 

I guess it's all about time &$$ If no time to work on it to get her home then buy a carb as you know it's not working. Don't know how far to have to move it to get home but if you never rebuilt a carb then for sure buy a carb. Learn to work on it later. If it starts up with engine quick
SPRAYED in the air filter or down in the carb gives you an idea it will run..my 2cents
orich

 

This should give you an idea of what our getting into if you decide to rebuilt.

Motorcraft Double Barrel Carburetor Series Videos Part 1 - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJF5D...feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77RME...=ULGpJUoPJCiW4

 

If it runs with the choke closed, then the spark plugs, and points/condenser are working. If there is no squirt when operating the throttle, it is obviously a carb issue. Especially when you pulled the fuel line and gas is getting to the carb. If you are comfortable rebuilding a carb, I would suggest that. If not, buy one.

Jim

 

Always make sure everything on the ignition is up to snuff before attacking the carburetor. That being said, the 2100 is probably the simplest carb ever to tear apart and put back together.

 

Wow, thanks for the video references! But I have rebuilt many carbs, and I bought a carb kit yesterday and pulled the carb today. I'm almost 100% sure it's the carb, the truck fires right up and idles smoothly at high idle on full choke, then dies when it warms up, and pumping the pedal does nothing. I'll check the points, but the cap and wires look new.

In fact, the entire engine looks like no bolt has ever been removed, even the valve covers. Awfully damn clean. Carb was a snap to remove. The PO advertised it as "28k original miles", but I figured it had to be 128k.

I've never driven a 360 auto. My current ride is a '66 F250 300-six with a 4-sp manual. That 300 is super torquey and smooth, is that 360 and C6 auto an good all-around combo? I really value the low-speed torque of the 300, but it's got a 4:11 axle and is REALLY limited on the highway. I'm hoping the 360 auto is almost as good down low, but much better on the highway with it's 3.73 (or 3.54?) axle.

I'll let you know how it goes, thanks for the help!

 

Carb ID tag number: C9TF-K = Ford part number: C8TZ-9510-N .. 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft* Carburetor (Motorcraft CA-606) / Obsolete

B9E6: B = Design change / 9E6 = Assembled May (E) 6, 1969 (9).

D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) .. 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-D) / Available from Ford and a gazillion autoparts stores.

MSRP: $33.42 // FTE sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $18.38 / Tousley Ford = White Bear Lake MN

Applications: ALL Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2100 series 2V carburetors installed in 1962/74 Passenger Cars/Trucks, 1966/74 Bronco's and 1969/74 Econolines.
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Look at the fuel pump. As original, it has a metal can on it that threads on/off. Inside this can is a corrogated paper cartridge fuel filter.

It rarely gets changed, because peeps are unaware, so they install an in-line fuel filter instead.

C4AZ-9365-B .. Cartridge Fuel Filter (Motocraft FG-1A) Available from Ford/autoparts stores.

MSRP: $10.16 // tousleyfordparts,com price: $5.03 / Your '66 would have come with this same filter originally.

* FoMoCo was forced by the US Gov't to sell Auto-Lite in 1972, because the gov't claimed they had a monopoly on auto parts. The former Auto-Lite parts/part numbers then became 'new in-house' brand Motorcraft parts/part numbers.

 

Only as a last resort should you ever buy an over the counter re-manufactured carburetor. They are often a mish mash of wrong parts and seldom do they function correctly. Then when you realize this, they already have your old core so you are stuck.

 

Got the carb kit, opened up the carb last night. Fuel bowl looked awful, main jet wells were almost full of crud and debris. No wonder it wouldn't idle! Idle circuit looked like it wouldn't flow ANY fuel.

The instructions had listings for dozens of applications for the 2100-series carbs and adjustment settings for each. The farthest back the listings went for Trucks was '71, and included the 360/auto combo that I have. The illustration did NOT show a manual choke version (me), only automatic.

ALSO, the settings on the pump linkage for 360/auto were different than what my carb was set at; kit recommended (1) link be in the 4th hole up on the actuation arm (sorry for being so vague, I'm hoping those reading this will know what I mean...) and the link actually pushing the arm on the pump be in the INSIDE hole (Pass side).

MY carb has the first link in the 3rd hole up, and the second link in the OUTSIDE (driver's) hole.

Mechanically, I think the (2) different combinations equal out at the pump itself, talking lever-arm physics here...but should I stick with my carb's settings, or go with the kit?

Other than that, I'm going to set my idle screws (removed them for cleaning) to what they were, and level the float to the kit's recommendations, and bolt it back up!

 

Once cleaned good blow out all holes with air or carb spray. Don't forget to charge all gas filters. I'd pull the gas tank and clean and check for any rust. If rusted there's many coating on the market to take care of it as a do it yourself or a shop can do it. And if you have pockets full of money then you can always buy a new one.. Oh and on this carb starting in 1970 there should be a choke pull down lever that works off the engine vacuum this has three screws in it cover on the top of carb right behine or next to the choke horn, this rubber diaphragm part does not come in 99% of kits and should be replaced while your doing the carb.

 

Doesn't come in the Ford carb kit, either.

DOAZ-9J549-C .. Choke Pull-Off Diaphragm (Motorcraft CK-1283) / Obsolete

Applications: 1970/74 Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2100 series 2V carbs.

Mounts on air horn, top of carb-front. Only the end of its L shaped lever is visable.

PITTSFIELD MOTOR CO. in Pittsfield MD has 1 = 410-835-8338.

DOTTS MOTOR CO. in Clearfield PA has 1 = 814-765-9681.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 16 = 800-543-4959.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 27 = 800-476-9653.