1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1949 F3 - 7HT Carburetor Problem

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Old 05-29-2012, 05:33 PM
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1949 F3 - 7HT Carburetor Problem

Hi

The 7HT carb on my 226 H series engine has been rebuilt but the spindles to the butterfly's are worn and it's not operating too well.

Does anyone have a good rebuilt one for sale or know if these carbs are remanufactured or is there an alternative available that would work on this motor? Would the 8HA off a passenger car 226 engine work? Is this jetted the same and does it have the vacuum advance?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Andrew
 
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:53 PM
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The main difference between the car and truck carbs post 1949 is the top, but these interchange. I think oversize shafts are available. I highly recommend rebuilding yours yourself, it's not that hard.
 
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Old 05-30-2012, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 38 coupe
The main difference between the car and truck carbs post 1949 is the top, but these interchange. I think oversize shafts are available. I highly recommend rebuilding yours yourself, it's not that hard.
Thanks. I did look for oversized shafts but couldn't find anywhere that sold them, any ideas?
 
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:53 AM
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IF you are very careful, you can drill out the standard bores, then buy bronze sleeve bushings from a hardware store. They will press in, then you will have to ream the inside to match your shaft. I would build a jig to keep everything in line. Look carefully at your shaft, you may have to build up worn spots with silver solder. I would do this and check the fit before adding bushings.
 
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 49truck
The 7HT carb on my 226 H series engine has been rebuilt but the spindles to the butterfly's are worn and it's not operating too well.

Does anyone have a good rebuilt one for sale?
How about NOS?
7HT-9510 .. 1948/51 226 I-6 Carburetor

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has ONE = 817-275-2371 (antiqueautosupply@yahoo.com).

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has ONE = 704-786-8139 (dennis-carpenter.com).
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:44 AM
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Well, here goes. I've had my 7HT rebuilt twice by 2 different very decent mechanic's, most recently this last week and I still have the same problem.

After driving my '50 Ford F1 at any given time or distance, I'll stop, shut the motor off and gas will over the bowl and run out via the accelerator pump hole I think it is. This happens 6 out of 10 time I drive around.

The second mechanic suggested a fuel pressure regulator, cutting the pressure from 5 down to 3 lbs. after the float was adjusted a second time and the overflow persisted. Of course the last 4 times I've been at the fix it shop ~~NO~~ fuel overflow took place. I know, right?!

After the second rebuild the fuel pressure was checked, gauge held at a solid 5 lbs. at any given motor rpm's.

Even though it was checked, is it possible there might be a hole in the float??

Has anyone ever installed said fuel pressure regulator and it fixed this problem??

~Your welcomed thoughts please.~
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:09 AM
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The problem isn't the fuel pressure, it is the fuel density. Modern unleaded, oxygenated, gasoline is not as dense as the old gas. Your float literally doesn't "float" as well as it did in old gasoline. Set your float level down about a quarter of an inch and your problem will go away. You carefully bend the tab on your float out a little bit to do this.

I have had to do this on all the flathead carburetors I have rebuilt in the last 3 or 4 years.
 
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:44 AM
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I would try the pressure regulator . You only need 3-3.5 psi fuel pressure.
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:21 PM
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Gents; I'm resurrecting this because my 7HT off my 49 F1 is having similar problems with fuel overflowing. I took out the float and made sure it had no leaks and that it floated. Now I want to adjust the float accordingly and I want to clarify which part of the float I measure to/from. I have a picture below so it's dummy proof (me).


So point A is my starting point right (just under the gasket), now is the 1.322-1.353 inches to point B or C? Also, it has been recommended to go 1/4" less or so, that would make it around 1.1 inches or so???

Also, I think I have ruled out hot fuel as the culprit because it'll do it long before the motor is hot enough to make the fuel hot. I'm also in the process of protecting my fuel line in the engine bay with steel conduit to give it a heat shield of sorts. Thanks for your help,
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:29 PM
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You are supposed to have the assembly upside down to measure.


 
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:21 AM
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You're correct as always Ross! And I read that how many times and still messed it up. I was thinking that because the float was hanging down that it was upside down for some reason. Thanks!
 
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