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Stuck calipers

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  #1  
Old 05-29-2012, 12:22 PM
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Stuck calipers

Since i bought my truck new in 2006 i have had all the calipers replaced twice because they have froze up. Now at 60k i have another one doing the same thing, the left front. What made me notice was my fuel milage was half of what it normally is. Ford has replaced them all under warrenty but this is rediculous. Could it be something besides the calipers? Maybe an ABS problem? thanks for any thoughts

2006 f250
 
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:44 PM
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I've had issues with my 08 brake calipers also. The dealer replaced the front passenger and I had to replace the rear passenger, both due to over heating and the caliper piston seizing up. What I have found is that over time, no matter the mileage, the pads stop sliding in the caliper mounting bracket slots and lock up on the rotor. This causes excessive heat and eventually burns up the rubber seals around the caliper pistons causing the caliper to lock up. I found that taking the brakes apart and cleaning up the slides that the pad rides in fixes the problem. To prevent further lock up I coat the slide and pad tips with never-seez. The dealer tried addressing this twice by cleaning the pad slides up but without the never-seez they eventually locked up again. It may not be the same issue you are having but mine and my brothers truck both had this issue and that fixed ours.
 
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:17 PM
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I have a 99. Once a year I coat the slide pins in high temp grease. I havnt had any problems since I started doing this.
 
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:43 PM
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I will try it, it is definetly worth a shot. For what we pay for these beasts you would think the brake system wouldnt be an issue.
 
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:36 PM
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If im going to take them apart i will put in new pads. What what be the best ones to put on ?
 
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jonsk
If im going to take them apart i will put in new pads. What what be the best ones to put on ?
I use autozone. Lifetime warrentee.
 
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:21 AM
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I've had good luck with O'reillys BrakeBest pads. I'd say as long as you stick with a semi-metallic pad you should be fine. I never had any luck with the ceramic pads, they seam to wear faster on big trucks. The ceramic pads also tend to warp the rotors from excessive heat on big trucks. I could be wrong but that has been my experience.
 
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by KES08
I've had good luck with O'reillys BrakeBest pads. I'd say as long as you stick with a semi-metallic pad you should be fine. I never had any luck with the ceramic pads, they seam to wear faster on big trucks. The ceramic pads also tend to warp the rotors from excessive heat on big trucks. I could be wrong but that has been my experience.
I read up on this topic and I've experienced brake failure all the way around on my 2000. I agree with annual greasing of slide pins and using semi-metallic pads.



 
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:37 AM
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I have had one rear caliper lock up on me, but I attributed that to my truck basically sitting for 2 years while I was overseas.
 
  #10  
Old 05-30-2012, 07:47 PM
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Add me to the caliper replacement list. Two calipers needed replacement so far. In both cases, the pistons would not easily retract into the caliper and the brakes dragged.

Lubricating the slide pins is a good preventive action. I'm also thinking that periodic replacement of the brake fluid might be another good periodic service item.

To date I have had zero problems associated with the 6.0 engine or transmission. One pair of batteries were replaced as a preventive maintenance item.

Brakes seem to be the only problem with this truck and that is likely due to the new salt solution that has been put down on Connecticut roads for the past 4 years.

Lou Braun
 
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:16 AM
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Only 2 complaints with my '06 250 with 100000 miles: 4 rear calipers and lousy paint.
 
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:37 PM
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dont the 05 and newer Fords have coated piston's in the calipers? I know my brothers 2006 F150 does and he's had the fronts replaced three times because the coating cracks off and the piston gets stuck in the caliper? I was told by the dealer that the SD's have the same coated pistons now?
 
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Lou Braun
Add me to the caliper replacement list. Two calipers needed replacement so far. In both cases, the pistons would not easily retract into the caliper and the brakes dragged.

Lubricating the slide pins is a good preventive action. I'm also thinking that periodic replacement of the brake fluid might be another good periodic service item.

To date I have had zero problems associated with the 6.0 engine or transmission. One pair of batteries were replaced as a preventive maintenance item.

Brakes seem to be the only problem with this truck and that is likely due to the new salt solution that has been put down on Connecticut roads for the past 4 years.

Lou Braun

Do you do your own brake work? You don't hang the calipers from the brake line right? Are you sure to not twist the caliper 360 degrees then reinstall? It will not allow much fluid to pass through the line.
I'm sure you do the work correctly. I'm just making everyone aware of things iv heard.
 
  #14  
Old 06-08-2012, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by KES08
I've had issues with my 08 brake calipers also. The dealer replaced the front passenger and I had to replace the rear passenger, both due to over heating and the caliper piston seizing up. What I have found is that over time, no matter the mileage, the pads stop sliding in the caliper mounting bracket slots and lock up on the rotor. This causes excessive heat and eventually burns up the rubber seals around the caliper pistons causing the caliper to lock up. I found that taking the brakes apart and cleaning up the slides that the pad rides in fixes the problem. To prevent further lock up I coat the slide and pad tips with never-seez. The dealer tried addressing this twice by cleaning the pad slides up but without the never-seez they eventually locked up again. It may not be the same issue you are having but mine and my brothers truck both had this issue and that fixed ours.
The notch where the pads slide (this is where the pad clips ride) get goober'd up and don't allow the pad the freedom it needs to move due to rust build up. I found that removing the rust allows freedom of movement for the pads to have the freedom of movement again.
New clips are also in order.
 
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Benchwrench
The notch where the pads slide (this is where the pad clips ride) get goober'd up and don't allow the pad the freedom it needs to move due to rust build up. I found that removing the rust allows freedom of movement for the pads to have the freedom of movement again.
New clips are also in order.
You are exactly right. I even put a little anti-seize on that notch and the clip to prevent future rust build up.
 


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