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Factory trailer wiring harness

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  #16  
Old 01-21-2014, 08:54 AM
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Sounds good, now to consider my options.

If I go to the salvage yard, what range of years might I find the small relay box in? I assume there's no difference between F-series models.

15 years ago I could go to 3 yards during my lunch hour...today, after government intervention and the skyrocketing price of steel, I'll have to drive 45 minutes just to get to a decent yard.
 
  #17  
Old 01-21-2014, 09:31 AM
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My diagrams show the small relay box for the trailer from 1992-1997 in the F-series trucks.
 
  #18  
Old 01-22-2014, 04:26 PM
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Got lucky! Found a 97 F250 in the only "local" yard, and picked up the small relay box and the rear pigtail that plugs into the unused connector. Once I get them cleaned up, connected and soldered, I should be in business!

As usual, kudos to subford for all his sage advice and input!

Guess I'll need to post up some pictures of the new GN trailer that started this mini-project, and the F350 now that the flatbed is installed.
 
  #19  
Old 01-22-2014, 10:59 PM
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Everything fit, plugged in, and works like a charm. Got the rear trailer connections all buttoned up, too. Some rewiring to do on the taillights and flatbed, as the installers didn't have much to work with that day. Working for now, though...and there are a couple of trailer jobs to tackle first.

Here's the small relay box installed. Very nice that both relays worked and nothing needed debugging.

 
  #20  
Old 07-13-2016, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SaddleBronc
Everything fit, plugged in, and works like a charm. Got the rear trailer connections all buttoned up, too. Some rewiring to do on the taillights and flatbed, as the installers didn't have much to work with that day. Working for now, though...and there are a couple of trailer jobs to tackle first.

Here's the small relay box installed. Very nice that both relays worked and nothing needed debugging.

Wondering if you could post a picture of the rear pigtail you plugged in. My truck is a 96 F150 and everything I have on my truck matches the pictures posted above. So I know I need to find a relay box and plug that in, but then, what do I plug into the rear of the truck up under the frame (there are unused plugs there), so I get the trailer brake control and the 12 volt power?

Edit I now know what pigtail i need for the rear end. Thanks anyways!
 
  #21  
Old 06-17-2018, 01:16 PM
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Old thread I know but I have a question.
I had picked up the 2 relay box at some point and am looking to re do the trailer brake controller on my 93 F150 w/ 5.0.

My under hood harness doesn't appear to have the two round connectors needed to plug in the relay box.
My PDB doesn't have the connections in to the empty maxi-fuse slot @ 21 or on relay 4

But I do have the under dash factory connector for trailer brake controller

Am I out of luck for a simple plug and play (without opening the PDB and reconfiguring) or was the wiring different for earlier years?
 
  #22  
Old 06-17-2018, 02:21 PM
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For my 1993 I had to add the plugs, relay box, fuse holders and wiring to the rear of the truck.
I also converted the back-up relay to a marker lamp relay.

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  #23  
Old 06-17-2018, 02:43 PM
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Thanks Bill-
I see I have some homework to do before deciding which way to proceed.
 
  #24  
Old 06-18-2018, 01:28 AM
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Is the E15A fuse you show at the speed control/brake pressure switch the Ford fuse patch for the cruise control fire recall?
 
  #25  
Old 06-18-2018, 05:30 AM
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No, that is stock fuse "E" in the engine fuse relay box.
That jumper and cut wiring was to only give power to the the brake pressure switch with the key on. The old way was to give power with the key off and caused some fires while parked. So it just did this as an extra safety thing I put in. The re-call is not showed but it is in the wire #10 also.


Fuse "E" location.
Attachment 280139

Stock Fuse relay box for a 1993 without factory tow.
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  #26  
Old 06-18-2018, 07:59 AM
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Okay- My owners manual shows fuse panel as numbers
E= fuse 5

I might just leave that one out-
all I rarely tow is a car hauler and other than the break away battery I really have no need for charging
thanks again for the details
 
  #27  
Old 06-18-2018, 08:04 AM
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Here is an image image below to show how I did my power mod for the pressure switch as I did not like the power on when the truck was off.

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  #28  
Old 06-19-2018, 08:51 AM
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What are the thoughts on using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse?
My brake controller manufacturer recommends an automatic reset 30A c/b for power feed to the controller.
I can see the benefit of it. Are there any draw backs to using the c/b for this application?
 
  #29  
Old 06-19-2018, 09:06 AM
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The only ones I can think of is the auto reset of CB can go bad with no spare and it may take longer to open the circuit and that may melt wires in the harness with repeating power to the circuit.
Ford only used CB's in critical places like the head light switch power supply.
 
  #30  
Old 07-07-2021, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SaddleBronc
Wow...35K miles...I have that same truck, but 170K miles...and also rust-free .

I have read every thread I can find on factory trailer wiring, but am still troubled by what I'm finding on my truck. One of the PO's had wired in a 6-pin plug, and it had a gooseneck ball and a reported history of pulling horse trailers, so I have to think the aftermarket (Kelsey) brake controller was working at one time. However, the terrible state of some of the wiring work has me wondering if it ever did.

Here's where I'm confused.

1) I do not have the secondary set of boxes next to the main fuse/relay panel under the hood. Here's a picture, showing the two unused connectors on the fenderwell.



2) I have the two connectors near the rear taillight connector. Connector 2 has the trailer lights (left, right, running, ground), and connector 1 has what looks like trailer brake, battery charge, and perhaps back-up? Note the circled area where the 6-pin connector's trailer brake pin was redneck-wired to by scraping insulation, wrapping (no solder) and black tape.



3) Last, I have a 4-pin plug under the dash (shown below) that the Kelsey controller is wire-tapped into. I haven't undone all the black tape to see exactly what other connections exist, but this is as I purchased it.



So based on what I've seen in other threads, I don't have the factory wiring harness, but I need to sort out what I do have and make it work. What I'd really like to know is how to tie in the under-dash connector to the wiring harness feeding that rear connector...if I could find it. Is it one of the plugs I marked above next to the fuse box?

Advice/clarification welcome...

thanks...Paul
Actually everything you have there is FACTORY!! the problem arose when the PO's wasnt able to find the correct 7 wire end to go into the grey and black pllug ends you saw there. ford actually did make a 7 wire end for their truck part number FTB-14A464-AT(fyi) i hope this helps . also there are connectors that are called T-1 one connectors but they only go to a 4 flat hook up.
 

Last edited by Paul J Conroy Sr.; 07-07-2021 at 08:30 PM. Reason: adding in additional info
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