Originally Posted by texastech_diesel

The first three: Fumoto valves because pulling the block plugs makes doing the chem flushes faster and easier, and so you only have to pull the starter once. The pressure regulator is just the blue spring part of what everyone calls "the blue spring mod", you don't have to buy a kit with a replacement cover, check at RiffRaff for the the cheaper kit. I always reccommend the updated HFCM plug because mine was already corroding on an '07, some guys have this problem and some don't, plus the update lets you drain the water separator without any tools.

Riffraff Diesel: Ford Fuel Pressure Regulator Blue Spring Kit

Standpipes connect the oil rail the the branch tube in the block. They're prone to leaking, so when you pull the oil rails as part of removing the heads, you replace the standpipes. Your '03 should have the original rails, so you don't need the dummy plugs.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - texastech_diesel's Album: Junk - Picture

You'll need a turbo install kit, and you should search about updating the oil feed line for the turbo because you might have the old braided line that will need to be replaced.

Originally Posted by Regulator1988

I dont think ill do a chem flush so do you think I should still do all of this

Originally Posted by texastech_diesel

What is the ECT/EOT split? If you need to replace the oil cooler, doing a real good restore and restore+ flush is going to make the new cooler last a lot longer. If you're on the original oil cooler I'd flush it out no matter what the delta before the tear down and go ahead and replace the oil cooler because you'll be in that deep, but if you want to try to string your old coolers along that's your call. Just in general, anytime you replace the oil cooler, you absolutely need to do a chem flush.

Originally Posted by jdhart73

Atlas 80 is safe. No matter how much you Bulletproof this thing if
You plan on throwing a LOT of horsepower at it you run a chance of jacking things up.
Find Tex on here and PM him, he has a lot of experience with running big power on this engine.

Originally Posted by texastech_diesel

What is the ECT/EOT split? If you need to replace the oil cooler, doing a real good restore and restore+ flush is going to make the new cooler last a lot longer. If you're on the original oil cooler I'd flush it out no matter what the delta before the tear down and go ahead and replace the oil cooler because you'll be in that deep, but if you want to try to string your old coolers along that's your call. Just in general, anytime you replace the oil cooler, you absolutely need to do a chem flush.

Originally Posted by texastech_diesel

I would clean the **** out of it if you know you'll be replacing the oil cooler. No need to let some leftover junk wreck the new cooler. I guess if you just chem flushed recently it you could skip it, but if you just flushed with water to swapthe coolant out then yes, I'd use restore on it.

Originally Posted by Regulator1988

whats the advantage of this Riffraff Diesel: Sinister Basic EGR Cooler Delete Kit

Originally Posted by Regulator1988

over this BulletProof EGR Cooler, Round

Originally Posted by zhilton

The cooler is removed, and those parts basic keep the coolant flowing. If your worried about smog/emissions visual testing...do not use this. A reasonablely trained inspector will know your EGR system is not there.The cooler remains, and is basically what the '03 engines had from Indianapolis or Huntsville when they were shipped to KTP.