This is how I installed my system:


I was looking for a link to a system install tutorial for the 08 Escape prior to installing my system. Unfortunately I could not find one anywhere online. So here is my install (after I installed it. Sorry I did not take pictures while doing the work.).

First thing I did was find a spot to run power and install the ground.





On the drivers side of the engine compartment firewall there was a grommet. It looks like it is used for a clutch (sorry for those of you with stick-shifts!). That's where the power wire was ran through, after popping a small hole with a drill. From there I just pulled up the kick, or rocker panels, whichever you call it. I also pulled off the A-beam plastic cover (column the front seat belts attach to) after removing the seat belt bolt (sorry again for the lack of pics). From there we fed the power cable to the back, under the backseat carpet and into the trunk area.

For the ground (this was trickier). When I found a good ground area I found the area to mount the amp!

Under the trunk area carpet there is a big piece of plastic you can remove.


I removed the piece of plastic by the four bolts in the corners (they are also your tie-down strap bolts). After removing the plastic I found a great spot for mounting all of my equipment, including a spot to make a ground.



For the ground we sanded an area in the sheet metal. We then screwed in a 1/4" self-tapping screw into the sheet metal, with the ground.
***DISCLAIMER*** It looks like the fuel tank is close to the area it is screwed into (the fuel pump being under the driver rear seat), so be extremely careful drilling in the area that I did! ***DISCLAIMER***



Okay, so now that power and ground are done I needed to mount the amp and run the signal wires. If you couldn't see, I used a Line Out Converter (LOC) for the signal wires. I got the LOC from the following link:

N-RHL2 - BEST LOC IN THE WORLD!! - $24.95 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

This guy makes his own 7V RMS LOC's! The Hz response is awesome, and it makes my sub slam!

[Disregard this section if you are installing an aftermarket deck] To run the speaker wires to the LOC, we removed the connectors that attach from the door frame (this is why the removal of the A-beam plastics was necessary). We then removed the seat belt spool from the frame (keep the seat belt extended so it doesn't lock up and become too short to bolt back up; if it does become too short, it has a gravity sensor and it has to be held vertical to be released, and it is SUPER sensitive. I found this out the hard way). You can now disconnect the one wiring harness clip and pull the wiring harness through the hole the seat belt. This is where I cut and soldered in new speaker wire. The process is the same for both sides. Refer to the following site for identifying the speaker wire colors:

2008 Ford Escape Factory Stereo Wiring Diagram

From there it was time to mount the amp. I used two pieces of cardboard cut to size for cushion under the amp and screwed the amp through the sheet metal.

***DISCLAIMER #2*** Watch out for your screw length and placement of the amp! Your spare tire is below where you mount the amp and you could possibly puncture the tire. Also, be aware where you mount your amp. It needs to be close to the top/front of vehicle to refrain from coming in contact with the jack in the plastic piece you removed. ***DISCLAIMER #2***



Obviously you don't need to go as crazy with taping your cables down as I did but be sure wherever the cables come in contact with the plastic frame piece, give it some extra cushion with the tape so it doesn't pinch the wires. Also I would plan better than I did with the crossing of signal wires and power wires. I got lucky with having good shielded wires and not having any interference upon completion but better planning on my half could have avoided any chance of interference.

Lastly we needed to mount my sub. I didn't want it to slide around in the back. We went to a local Lowes and bought tiny L brackets. We drilled and mounted them to the plastic trunk piece after taping out where they needed to be with the sub in place. Once they were mounted, we spray painted them to match the sub carpet (tape was still on the plastic). When the paint cured, we installed everything.





We then installed the carpet. After folding the carpet back we cut tiny slits in the carpet (be sure you have the alignment right for a seamless fit). You can’t see the cuts even if you remove the carpet afterwards, when you use a new razor. I will not damage my vehicles for resale reasons.



Lastly install Sub and you’re done! I think the end result looks great!



Please let me know what you think!

 

hey, so i cant see the pictures, but after installing the amp, did you put the big black plastic piece back in? or put some other kind of floor in?