Being a newbie with these trucks what is the deal with the Toyota power steering? Truck does have the beam front suspension.
Haven't done a search here yet on it...never thought a a Toy and older Ford suspension would mate easily....I like easy swaps and Cheap

Thanks

 

I love the Anglia! How much of the 34 is steel? The hood sides look aftermarket. My first car was a 55 Chev 4 dr post.

 

Read about swapping in the Toyota PS box here. It fits and works like it was made for this application:
Toyota Steering Box Swap For 1948-1960 Trucks .: Articles

If you don't have one call Mid Fifty: Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Home and ask the gals to send you one of their free catalogs. It is far more useful than as just a list of parts, you'll be referring to it regularly, and MF is an excellent source of parts and advice.

 

The swap is incredibly easy, G.R. I did it on my '56. The only thing that would complicate the process and cost extra $$$ would be if you were hard-nosed about having a tilt column-shift. Any other way (non-tilt or floor shift) is cheaper and easier, but I was hard-nosed about having a column shift tilt wheel. Also be sure to rebuild your drag link while you're at it. It's cheap and easy too.

Only other obstacle would be to scare up the proper bracketry and a pump to run it. Since you're running the same aquarium pump I am this should be easy for you. I used a p/s setup from a '68-'72 F100. You could also use a setup from a '73-'76 F100 aswell. The '68-'72s had a provision to mount a p/s oil cooler off of the bracket itself. The '73-'76s had extra switch-backs in the return line tucked inside of the driver's frame rail to serve as a cooler. Unless the truck had the HD cooling option. The pre-'67 FE trucks and cars would be usable too, but are gettin harder to find and are made up of more pieces. The '68-72 and '73-'76 are common as water and should be easy to locate. Just be sure to grab all associated spacers, pulleys, and whatnot.

Here's a pics of mine.

 

The Vicky is 'glas except for the body and running boards. The original fenders, hood, grille were rusted/dented, had bullet holes in the body, fenders and glass.... beyond reasonable repair(car came out of the Seattle area)so I used 'glas replacements. The car had sat in a field for over 40yrs when I found it. It took almost six months of me bugging the owner to sell it, he bought the car new in '34, he finally agreed to sell it to me for $300. A friend of mine is a machinist and he made the hood side inserts for me out of aluminum which I then spent hours sanding/polishing to a mirror finish then Zoop sealed. The Vicky took close to 5yrs to finish from a rusting hulk.
The Anglia was a former Gasser out of the mid-west back in the day that was undergoing a rebuild to a street rod by the previous owner before he had serious heart attack and decided to sell it. Straight axle was replaced with a Pete&Jakes modified M II suspension. The engine is a bit over cammed for street friendly use and it is definitely in love with gas stations. Under hard acceleration with line-lok it will pull the front end off the ground in a heartbeat...Thank God for wheelie bars! Not real comfortable to drive long distances...but it sure garners attention at shows and cruise nights.

 

Dano78, Thank you for the information and the catalog reference. The truck does have a floor shift but a stock non-tilt style column. I need to have my wife drive the truck and that will be the determining factor on going tilt or retaining the stock style column.

 

I'd suggest replacing the stock tie rod with the HD one from Mid Fifty when using PS. The OEM flexes and bends a little too easily. I used a tilt column to make it more comfortable for me and my now ex-wife to adjust the driving position for long distance driving. The large stock wheel and "bus driver" driving position is foreign to anyone who has not driven early vehicles.

 

Yep, I agree 100% with that. I got the Improved tie-rod and end links from Mid-Fifty. Definately a must. Picture doesn't do justice. Definately a difference in thickness between the two. Accepts stock-style tie-rod ends.
Pictured below: Stock tie rod on top, Mid-Fifty 'Improved' tie rod on bottom.

 

Good choice G.R. And welcome!

 

Welcome to the club. I am new with a purchase of a 1950 F1. Lots of good information here.

 

Hello and welcome from California!!

Keep us posted on your plans and progress!!

Dan