If you're going to tow a large enclosed trailer...
#16
05-23-2012, 09:33 PM
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I'll try to post some pics of the setup Friday when I tow the trailer again if I get the chance. I had zero issues setting up my hitch with the airbags, and it does so well with them that I can't imagine it towing any better without them. I'm just going to leave well enough alone at this point.
#17
05-23-2012, 11:52 PM
Here is what Ford recommends, copied from the manual (page 276). Note the warning at the end!
Weight-distributing hitch
When hooking-up a trailer using a weight-distributing hitch, always use the following procedure:
1. Park the vehicle (without the trailer) on a level surface.
2. Measure the height of the top of the front wheel opening on the fender, this is H1.
3. Attach the trailer to the vehicle without the weight distributing bars connected.
4. Measure the height of the top of the front wheel opening on the fender a second time, this is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the weight distributing bars so that the height of the front fender is approximately halfway between H1 and H2.
6. Check that the trailer is level. If not level, adjust the ball height accordingly and repeat Steps 3–6.
WARNING: Do not adjust a weight-distributing hitch to any position where the rear bumper of the vehicle is higher than it was before attaching the trailer. Doing so will defeat the function of the weight-distributing hitch, which may cause unpredictable handling, and could result in serious personal injury.
When hooking-up a trailer using a weight-distributing hitch, always use the following procedure:
1. Park the vehicle (without the trailer) on a level surface.
2. Measure the height of the top of the front wheel opening on the fender, this is H1.
3. Attach the trailer to the vehicle without the weight distributing bars connected.
4. Measure the height of the top of the front wheel opening on the fender a second time, this is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the weight distributing bars so that the height of the front fender is approximately halfway between H1 and H2.
6. Check that the trailer is level. If not level, adjust the ball height accordingly and repeat Steps 3–6.
WARNING: Do not adjust a weight-distributing hitch to any position where the rear bumper of the vehicle is higher than it was before attaching the trailer. Doing so will defeat the function of the weight-distributing hitch, which may cause unpredictable handling, and could result in serious personal injury.
#18
05-24-2012, 12:01 AM
And yes, you can properly adjust a WDH with airbags, you just need to keep them at the same pressure always when adjusting the hitch and when using it.
The problem with the air bags is that you will need to watch your axle rating and payload to make sure the bags don't mask an overloading issue.
Air bags come in handy when you have soft springs and a moderately heavy trailer plus some load in the bed. The air bags can be used to compensate for the load in the bed, and the WDH for the tongue weight. The WDH should never compensate for rear sagging due to a load in the bed.
The problem with the air bags is that you will need to watch your axle rating and payload to make sure the bags don't mask an overloading issue.
Air bags come in handy when you have soft springs and a moderately heavy trailer plus some load in the bed. The air bags can be used to compensate for the load in the bed, and the WDH for the tongue weight. The WDH should never compensate for rear sagging due to a load in the bed.
#19
05-24-2012, 08:59 AM
No, you definitely don't want the nose jammed into the ground to the max axle rating. You should follow the manufacturers recommendation. For my 2012 F150 that recommendation is to transfer one half of the load the trailer took off the front back to the front. An over-tightened WDH (which you'd certainly have at max front axle rating) is dangerous and causes a lot of stress on the trailer tongue & frame, truck frame, and truck hitch.
Here is what Ford recommends, copied from the manual (page 276). Note the warning at the end!
Here is what Ford recommends, copied from the manual (page 276). Note the warning at the end!
I just didn't want to be the one to say it.
#20
05-24-2012, 10:28 AM
No, you definitely don't want the nose jammed into the ground to the max axle rating. You should follow the manufacturers recommendation. For my 2012 F150 that recommendation is to transfer one half of the load the trailer took off the front back to the front. An over-tightened WDH (which you'd certainly have at max front axle rating) is dangerous and causes a lot of stress on the trailer tongue & frame, truck frame, and truck hitch.
Here is what Ford recommends, copied from the manual (page 276). Note the warning at the end!
Here is what Ford recommends, copied from the manual (page 276). Note the warning at the end!
#21
05-24-2012, 11:39 AM
My point wasn't to say you *should* jack up the rear with WDH, point is it can. Same for front axle rating. In my case I was towing max GVWR and GCWR so I had front axle 10lbs under max, rear axle 140lb under max, and was towing about the max allowed GCWR. I do disagree with the Ford manual and instead agree with the WDH manual, you want the front axle (wheel height measured at the fender) the same or lower not somewhat higher. I can assure you the truck will drive worse and be more unsafe with ANY nose higher attitude.
That is over-adjustment, and not a good thing IMO.
I am following Fords suggestion.
#23
05-24-2012, 01:37 PM
reese recommends that the vehicle settle "evenly" within 1/2" and that if the front settles more than the rear, that it should be re-adjusted such that the rear settles more than the front.
http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N66067.pdf
this corresponds with everythign i've ever read about adjusting a WD hitch. Many suggest that the front should be at Zero lift or squat, with the cavat that it is OK for the front to settle on some models (mini vans) so long as the rear settles more.
More than anything, the idea is to prevent the front of the vehicle from unloading. if you adjust it such that the front wheel wells are at the same height loaded as unloaded, then the WD hitch is doing what it is intended to do, regardless of how much squat is in the rear. I would say, according to what Reese recommends, that if the rear of the vehicle settles 1/2" more than the front, it should be about perfect (so long as you havnt exceded the GFAWR)
http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N66067.pdf
this corresponds with everythign i've ever read about adjusting a WD hitch. Many suggest that the front should be at Zero lift or squat, with the cavat that it is OK for the front to settle on some models (mini vans) so long as the rear settles more.
More than anything, the idea is to prevent the front of the vehicle from unloading. if you adjust it such that the front wheel wells are at the same height loaded as unloaded, then the WD hitch is doing what it is intended to do, regardless of how much squat is in the rear. I would say, according to what Reese recommends, that if the rear of the vehicle settles 1/2" more than the front, it should be about perfect (so long as you havnt exceded the GFAWR)
#25
05-24-2012, 02:12 PM
I installed and setup my WDH, I used CAT multi-axle scales, a trailer tongue scale, and tuned the setup through all the parameters including loading of the car on the hauler even backing it on to get the right setup with no sway and no anti-sway device. In the end, for most days I tow with the front axle neutral height (no gain/loss). On a windy or rainy day I add that extra link, dropping the nose the extra 1/2-3/4" and I don't' regret it, it is a safer ride, and its not overloaded. Your results may vary.
#26
05-24-2012, 03:39 PM
I installed and setup my WDH, I used CAT multi-axle scales, a trailer tongue scale, and tuned the setup through all the parameters including loading of the car on the hauler even backing it on to get the right setup with no sway and no anti-sway device. In the end, for most days I tow with the front axle neutral height (no gain/loss). On a windy or rainy day I add that extra link, dropping the nose the extra 1/2-3/4" and I don't' regret it, it is a safer ride, and its not overloaded. Your results may vary.
when you add the extra link and the front comes down that 1/2" or so, how does that compare to the rear. that is to say, how many inches does the rear come down in this setting?
sounds to me like you've done some homework and come up with a system that works for you and are comfortable with it, so that's a good thing. and more than likely, well with in the guidelines of your hitch maker. so kudo's for that.
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