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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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Old 05-20-2012, 06:58 PM
knuss3807 knuss3807 is offline
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Turbo Inlet, Outlet Exhaust Leak

Hello,
2004 F250 6.0L
I just finished up replacing the oil cooler, installed a Sinister EGR delete, coolant filter, CCV reroute, new belts, hoses, coolant flush, etc.
Went to start the truck and it gave me a good scare for how long it took to finally start even though I poured 2 qts of oil in into the filter housing to speed up the start process. It kicked twice initially then wouldn't start, <100 ICP. Had to crank several minutes but it finally started.
Anyways, my problem is that I have a real bad exhaust leak at the turbo. Bad enough that I can hear the rush of the air, even while driving. The sound goes up and down with the throttle. I noticed it right away when it first started and before everything got hot, I reached back there and could feel a good rush of air around both inlet and outlet connections.
I tried resetting the outlet side by loosening the clamp and bolts at the connection before the cat, jiggling the pipe trying to make sure it's seated while tightening the clamp. No luck.
Questions:
1) Are there any gaskets at the turbo connection? I didn't see any when it came apart and I don't think there is supposed to be any but I could be wrong.
2) Any help, tips etc on how to get these seated properly?

Quite frankly at this point I'm quite burned out working on it. I've spent last weekend tearing it apart, this past week rounding parts needed and doing misc items and all this weekend putting it all back together. Unless someone comes up with some good ideas, I'm about ready to take it to our local diesel shop and let them do it. I just hate to give up but I'm burned out on it and have no idea what to do different.

Thanks in advance
knuss3807
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:09 PM
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BLADE35 BLADE35 is offline
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Dont give up yet your SO SO Close. Almost there Bud

Just take a break or whatever Have a Beer or smoke break a Pepsi break whatever LOL You will get it


Just have to remount the turbo. some thing happened to me to its a PIA but Doable. Same as you I thought I had it close enough and the clamp would pull it the rest the way together and seal it up but thats just not the Case

here is how I do the turbo

Might help to leave the Exhaust manafold to uppipe joint bolts loose to tighten them up very Last

Sit turbo in pedistall (NO MOUNT BOLTS dont even start them) and look at how the ypipe and turbo inlet come together. this joint is most criticle one. The Inner part of the ypipe has a Flange that sticks out and this where it usually hangs up. The Clamp will not suck it together right if NOT Lined up right. So with it sitting there Look at the reveal/gap between the 2 turbo and ypipe Before you put the Marmon clamp on it and see what it takes to make the reveal perfict be it a push or pull whatever takes to make perfict(Mine took a push of Both ypipe and turbo towards the firewall to make that perfict reveal). Then take the Marmon Clamp and smear antiseize on the clamp flanges alittle slip-n-slide here goes along ways. Then install the clamp around the joint and before you snug it up push or pull whatever you did in the first step to make the gap/reveal equall between the turbo and ypipe do same thing and tighten it up. I used an Air ratchet and pushed with other Hand and worked GREAT.

Then you can install the turbo mount bolts and the rest of it. When I had ypipe good the turbo mount bolts were a PIA to get in so I had to pry the turbo some to start the Bolts. Just dont want to loosen the ypipe joint once you get it.



You can do it no question you made it this far

Once you get the turbo mounting figured out it wont be an issue ever again


Im shure there are other ways to do it this is just what works great for me
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2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:27 PM
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BLADE35 BLADE35 is offline
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Make shure you have the exhaust gasket in at the point where the uppipe meets the ypipe



When you dumped the Oil into the oil filter housing the oil filter standpipe in the center must be removed so the oil will go to the HPO Reservoir through the dead center. If filter standpipe is left in the Majoirity of the oil dumped in will just go into the oil filter housing drain and drain to the Oil Pan.

No worries though its running now

Did you also leave the EGR Valve installed in the intake manafold and plugged in to keep PCM & Fan happey
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Benny oem hpop 1/8/14,update ipr screen
2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:37 PM
knuss3807 knuss3807 is offline
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Well, that's what I'm doing, taking a break. I've called it quits for the night.

Your procedure makes sense. I did have the up pipe bolts loose at the time but the turbo was bolted down.

What about the main exhaust outlet pipe? Same method? Which one would you do first?

I hate giving up but I'm burnt out, wife's giving me he** for spending all my time with the truck (calls it my mistress) and on top of it all, I got pressure to get it going asap with little time to work on it anymore. I'm dreading the thought of tearing back into it to a gain access to the clamps and mounting bolts. Seems like everything was a bi*ch, fighting me all the way but I got it done just to discover this exhaust leak. What a let down. Sorry for the rambling, just venting I guess.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:46 PM
knuss3807 knuss3807 is offline
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OK, I had the stand pipe installed. That make sense now for the long crank time. Learned a few things doing this job, this is another one.

The exhaust gasket is in place between the Sinster up pipe and the Y-pipe. This connection was tightened before the turbo was installed.

I left the EGR installed and plugged in. Cleaned it up first though.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knuss3807 View Post
Well, that's what I'm doing, taking a break. I've called it quits for the night.?.
Good Deal Iv been in your shoes

sometimes the best thing you can do is walk away for a few and get a Good Game plan going for next time


Quote:
Originally Posted by knuss3807 View Post
Your procedure makes sense. I did have the up pipe bolts loose at the time but the turbo was bolted down.

What about the main exhaust outlet pipe? Same method? Which one would you do first?.
Do the Ypipe to Turbo Joint First as this is the Most important one Any leaks here and it will be Power Lose and Boost Lose just poor preformance want this one GOOD




Then if you want you can do the Exhaust Downpipe Next. this one not as important if it did leak a touch it wouldnt cause a power Lose. Just maybe a exhaust smell in the Cab if heater or a/c on. Plus you can just snug this one up if needed easier than the other


I put the turbo bolts in Last I dont want them to Hinder the Pipe connections from sealing good

some guys start them and Leave them Loose


Just remember the Antiseize trick smeared on the Clamp Flanges it helps and maybe alittle taping on it as you tighten them

Most of us have had this Turbo Battle before
I had never had to deal with a turbo before I got my truck so it was a learning curve for me too hang in there you will get it


Quote:
Originally Posted by knuss3807 View Post
I hate giving up but I'm burnt out, wife's giving me he** for spending all my time with the truck (calls it my mistress) and on top of it all, I got pressure to get it going asap with little time to work on it anymore. I'm dreading the thought of tearing back into it to a gain access to the clamps and mounting bolts. Seems like everything was a bi*ch, fighting me all the way but I got it done just to discover this exhaust leak. What a let down. Sorry for the rambling, just venting I guess.
Hey its understandable my wife has gave me crap over it to she will get over it LOL
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2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
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Old 11-24-2014, 02:46 PM
yidakimason yidakimason is offline
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I Also had a bad exhaust leak which left my cab reaking in cold weather startups. I noticed that the down pipe connection was a huge gap at the rear, seamed fine if you looked only from the front. I got things apart no problem but i fought with it for two one hour sessions ad could not close that gap. Finally i decided to strip everything down to loosen turbo from pedestal. This led to a badly stripped bolt at the back of turbo. I was not having fun and basically could not get the turbo loose to help line up that down pipe. Took a break, reapproached and realized i could loosen the exhaust just before the catalytic. I jumped back up and the downpipe popped into place with no effort. Had i started with that trick i would have saved 6 hours of frustration and that har to reach bolt would not be stripped. Solve that issue but now realizing there is still a leak, probably bellows or y pipe because the inlet connection at turbo is good. Here we go again...
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Old 11-24-2014, 04:28 PM
lwems lwems is offline
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Yep, I've been there too... hours and hours, then break for the night, then hours and hours again the next day. And my arms riddled with fiberglass filaments. And scraped knuckles. I even blew out a clamp and had to make the Drive Of Shame to Ford to buy another.

What I learned:

1. Totally disconnect the up pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Totally, as in no bolts even loose. You want to be able to wiggle them around. (Once you're all done, it will be trivially easy to realign the up pipes and reinstall the bolts, due the flexible sections.)

2. No pedestal bolts either, as others have noted. Those are last. And they could even wait a couple of days, if the holes don't line up at first: take the engine through a couple cold/hot/cold cycles and the exhaust lines will relax and the holes will eventually line up.

3. Do the EGR cooler joint first, because (mine at least) has two funny little thin metal gaskets that were a royal pain to get lined up right.

4. Once the EGR cooler joint is done, you won't have as much wiggle to work with, but you can still swing it. Do the outlet joint next. Put a crowbar or prybar down between the turbo and the pedestal in order to lift and wiggle it until the joint lines up just perfectly. And I mean just perfect. The clamp doesn't seem to have any power to line up a misaligned joint.

5. Inlet joint is last, and as before, use a prybar between turbo and pedestal in order to shift the turbo into position. The inlet pipe will also have some wiggle room, but not much after the EGR joint is done. As before, pry and shuffle until you see a perfect alignment and then cautiously apply the clamp. If you have a helper, he can get under the truck to help maneuver the up pipes.

6. As I said earlier, the bolts to the pedestal can wait a day or two if the holes are way out of line, and you need a cool/hot/cool cycle to get everything to relax.

7. Reconnect exhaust manifolds to up pipes, definitely a pleasantly easy task after all that. (I was so worried I'd never get them lined up afterward.)

I guess my big insight to offer here is using a prybar under the turbo.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:30 PM
happscrap happscrap is offline
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I just did mine yesterday.
Had the same issue and some folks here said this... I combined all what they said and it worked flawlessly.. less than 30 mins.

1. Loosen the bottom exhaust bolts that go to the manifold. You only to to loosen one on each side.. The one facing you. You will get the movement your looking for up top at the y pipe.

2. I do have the 3 turbo bolts in but very loose. This way if the y pipe is pulling on the turbo you don't have to work so hard getting them started.

3. Do all this with the clamp off.

4. Get a ratchet strap.. cheap orange ones from harbor frieght work well. Put the s hook through the y pipe and it will lodge there. You don't need to hook it in.. it will pinch in there by it self.
Run the other side to the corner of the front of the truck. Mine has a little square cut out .

5. While up on step ladder watch the conection get closed together. . You will see it start to touch. Stop and use a pry bar to jiggle in place.. add a little more pressure on strap if need be. It will pop into place. Once it does.. tighten strap till they are flush.. it doesn't take much.

6. Install clamp from back to front.. it's doable.. work position is the key. Make sure clamp is on straight.. don't undo the strap till you start it and you will hear that sweet sound. Then undo the strap.

I didn't use the antiseeze.. but that might help. Wouldn't want that all over my hand while trying to get the clamp set.. lol..
you got this.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:30 PM
 
 
 
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