2000 5.4 ticking
#1
2000 5.4 ticking
Last time I had a tick like this, it eventually blew a plug. I was able to get a new plug back in.
So that was my first guess; that plug, but it was fine. Being not easy to check these plugs I grabbed each COP and moved it around as the engine ran, to see if the tick changed, and it didn't.
This tick is very prevalent, but I can't hear it at idle. Any load, A/C, idle in drive, moving, then it's there. It sounds exactly like the turn signal, but quieter. No codes, so it's not an COP misfire.
Sticking my head in, which is not far, it definitely is coming from the right side, but rather than near the plugs, it sounds like it's coming from the center or lower edge of the valve cover.
So is this a rocker? I tried the thing that has never worked on any vehicle for me, an oil treatment that's supposed to help noisy lifters, STP this time, and as always, no change.
If it's a rocker, I know that can go a long time, but I'm still worried about a plug blow out.
I almost always do my own work, but as tight as this is to get too, I would have to take it somewhere to pull the valve cover, if that's what is needed.
what'd ya think?
So that was my first guess; that plug, but it was fine. Being not easy to check these plugs I grabbed each COP and moved it around as the engine ran, to see if the tick changed, and it didn't.
This tick is very prevalent, but I can't hear it at idle. Any load, A/C, idle in drive, moving, then it's there. It sounds exactly like the turn signal, but quieter. No codes, so it's not an COP misfire.
Sticking my head in, which is not far, it definitely is coming from the right side, but rather than near the plugs, it sounds like it's coming from the center or lower edge of the valve cover.
So is this a rocker? I tried the thing that has never worked on any vehicle for me, an oil treatment that's supposed to help noisy lifters, STP this time, and as always, no change.
If it's a rocker, I know that can go a long time, but I'm still worried about a plug blow out.
I almost always do my own work, but as tight as this is to get too, I would have to take it somewhere to pull the valve cover, if that's what is needed.
what'd ya think?
#2
A little extra info.
When I'm standing by the right front tire, it sounds exactly like someone tapping a big stick. Not electrical, so what would do that, being it didn't do that a few weeks ago?
Definitely a lot louder than the ticking I had before the plug blew out. It's driving me crazy!
Seems to almost have to be under the valve cover.
When I'm standing by the right front tire, it sounds exactly like someone tapping a big stick. Not electrical, so what would do that, being it didn't do that a few weeks ago?
Definitely a lot louder than the ticking I had before the plug blew out. It's driving me crazy!
Seems to almost have to be under the valve cover.
#4
Have had this before & there is a couple times it was the a/c pulley shaft before the clutch bearings went bad...one was a idler pulley...they were already condemed for R&R...timing chain,valves,etc were the given reasons...these were trade ins but sent to auction thinking too Xspensive to fix...each of these had ticking from barely audible to a rythmic knock....only when taking off the drivebelts and checking each pully was it obvious...you'd swear the ticking was internal...the rythem and intensity were not constant until the very end...but were getting more so till the noise scared the owners away....may not be your fix, but you never know....have one now that has the same issues, but know this one is chain guides/tensioner internal...like to know what you find...
#5
Well, it's certainly things I will look at. All I can say for sure is that its coming from the passenger side of the engine, but that doesn't mean it's internal.
So I think you are saying I could take off the belt(s) and turn each pulley alone and I could tell if one of those are the problem? Oh, I just thought of something, and its that I do not hear it at idle with the A/C off. When I was checking it the other day, I had it in Drive, with the E-brake on. Later that evening I noticed it doing it also at idle if I had the A/C on. So it seems just a slight extra load beyond idle gets it to ticking.
Jimmy. I think I know what the sound would be if it was a leak, but I can't be positive. This is just like someone tapping a stick really hard on cement. When I had my RV, that leak sounded different than this, but it was an older 460, so that might be the difference. Also, the 460 only did it under heavy acceleration and then faded to nothing after I was up to speed.
When I was doing the front end work and had that left front wheel/brakes/shock off, I did see a black spot on the head, coming out from one small spot at the exhaust manifold like maybe there was a very small exhaust leak there. However running the engine and looking at it, I couldn't determine if that was where the noise was coming from or not. Even though it had only ran for 1 minute, it was really hot already.
So if it is the manifold leak, is the only fix a head gasket? Or is there a possibility I could put JB Weld in that spot to at least temporarily see if it stops? I've heard that stuff won't last, but some have said it will work temporarily. If I could just be sure it is only a leak, I could live with it.
I keep thinking every time I take off that it's going to blow a plug and I'll start hearing the shotgun blasts that happened last time it blew a plug, but as I said, this tick is much much louder than when I had that tick before.
So I think you are saying I could take off the belt(s) and turn each pulley alone and I could tell if one of those are the problem? Oh, I just thought of something, and its that I do not hear it at idle with the A/C off. When I was checking it the other day, I had it in Drive, with the E-brake on. Later that evening I noticed it doing it also at idle if I had the A/C on. So it seems just a slight extra load beyond idle gets it to ticking.
Jimmy. I think I know what the sound would be if it was a leak, but I can't be positive. This is just like someone tapping a stick really hard on cement. When I had my RV, that leak sounded different than this, but it was an older 460, so that might be the difference. Also, the 460 only did it under heavy acceleration and then faded to nothing after I was up to speed.
When I was doing the front end work and had that left front wheel/brakes/shock off, I did see a black spot on the head, coming out from one small spot at the exhaust manifold like maybe there was a very small exhaust leak there. However running the engine and looking at it, I couldn't determine if that was where the noise was coming from or not. Even though it had only ran for 1 minute, it was really hot already.
So if it is the manifold leak, is the only fix a head gasket? Or is there a possibility I could put JB Weld in that spot to at least temporarily see if it stops? I've heard that stuff won't last, but some have said it will work temporarily. If I could just be sure it is only a leak, I could live with it.
I keep thinking every time I take off that it's going to blow a plug and I'll start hearing the shotgun blasts that happened last time it blew a plug, but as I said, this tick is much much louder than when I had that tick before.
#6
Quick check to rule out a/c clutch bearings,pulley shaft....remove your a/c pulley and inspect the seals/bearings inside the pulley....if the compressor has a small nose seal leak, thee bearings will eventually fail...or worse, add enough play & bend the comp. shaft...one center bolt to remove the clutch plate...& you can also reshim the clutch/coil gap & see if any of those are bad...or rule out...but I'd still remove belt to check all the pulleys if not done in a while....& don't take a cheap fix if it is yer' manifold leaking...(IMHO)...get em shaved or replaced....JB weld or the likes work great for certain apps...this (again,IMHO) is not one of them...love to know when/what helps...good luck!
#7
I can get money to replace the van, but I don't have it for a head gasket, and for me, that would be an impossible job to do myself. I do everything I can do myself, but that van being down even for more than 2 business days is not an option.
I want to try JB Weld just to see if that stops it, at least for enough time to know if that is the problem. I'm sure it will fall off rather quickly because of the heat. I believe I remember trying it with my RV's 460, now that I think about it. Didn't last, but good for a test.
I had the A/C clutch apart a few years ago as I replaced the coil and the plate, but haven't checked it lately.
I want to try JB Weld just to see if that stops it, at least for enough time to know if that is the problem. I'm sure it will fall off rather quickly because of the heat. I believe I remember trying it with my RV's 460, now that I think about it. Didn't last, but good for a test.
I had the A/C clutch apart a few years ago as I replaced the coil and the plate, but haven't checked it lately.
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#8
I get the downtime & $ concerns...but since yer gonna' give it a try, I'll confess my sin & add I ran my old sundowner over 55k that we repaired with JB weld on the block because I also remember others at the dragstrip teasing pops because he said the crack was 6"....they swore 4" because his wife always said whenever he opend his mouth or pants, he was always off by25%...& he tended to be on the
#10
In a van, the scope method is just not possible in most of the areas I would need to check. However I had a friend that wrenches more than me look at it. I just told him, what do you think this sounds like? The first thing he said was an exhaust leak.
Then I had my son rev it while I listened in the right wheelwell, and sure enough I don't hear it as the RPM's come up.
Guess it will have to wait until next year's tax return as I doubt that's cheap to have done.
Then I had my son rev it while I listened in the right wheelwell, and sure enough I don't hear it as the RPM's come up.
Guess it will have to wait until next year's tax return as I doubt that's cheap to have done.
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