1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
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I have 2 F-600's on the farm with those "bad" wheels on them. As long as the tires are good and they hold air they can stay on there...
I am always on the look out for a deal on better wheels though. Can't justify buying new wheels for a $500 truck....Much cheaper to buy a different truck, IMO.
Hi .. just wanted to say after spending 900 bucks for a pair of tires installed ..150 each for the tires ..500 for install I was not going to leave my truck hostage at the Firestone dealer here in Victoria Scotia tire ..I am still running W-M on the front .. and Stocton custom rims on the back ..don't wast your money on stocton ..wrong offset ..and no recourse ..I use my truck ..I enjoy driveing it ..and yes it will get rims that will let me drive it without fear if my truck wasn't a unique beast I would rip out the axles and put in something newer that would let me enjoy better brakes and tires try finding 17 inch ..or 17.5 for less then 200 bucks each ..when I can get 19.5 truck tires for 100 each used and serviced anywhere..frustrating ..to say the least ..
I'm fairly certain I'll be replacing them and will post here when I'm done if anyone still wants 'em. I use a skidsteer mostly and don't want anything to do with un-neutered WM's loaded, cocked, and aiming into the cab right at me.
I really like the looks of the Dayton spoke design - is it possible to get Dayton hubs which fit the F500 axle? There's a guy on flee-bay that has a set of Dayton wheels ready to go - I just don't know which hub I'd need. Where' the best place to start looking for that type of information?
As for good deals on some of this stuff, you guys might want to look at your local metal scrap yard. I've found unbelievable stuff there, especially since the cash-for-clunkers program. Parts are priced by-the-pound, so the only thing better is "Free." IMO.
Daytons are a no go. They require a different hub and brake and the cost to change would be prohibitive, even if you only had labor. And then there is the issue of them being a questionable design in the first place. Much heavier and even on a truck unsprung weight is not your friend. And you have a built-in probable wobble as they must be bolted up just right.
Run from Daytons.
Tubless 19.5s with 6 on 8.75 can be had new. Isuzu and Sterling cab overs use them, along with a host of others.
I tried to find it and can't seem to.Wasn't there a link to a thread about removeing the rivits and actually welding the centers from W-M into a another wheel.I can't remember if it was for 17s or 20s etc.Anyone have the link?
56 F250 stock,56 m500 cummins power,49 F47,collecting for my 32 PU
There's been a few references to this over the years and it's a good solution if done correctly. A 17" Budd center mounts perfectly into a 19.5" rim along the drop center. I've had a set where this was professionally done. In theory the same should apply to a 20" disc and 22.5" rim, although I've not had any myself to measure. To me the determining factor on whether or not to do this is the amount of faith a guy has in his welding skill. A wheel failure associated with an accident would be a lawyer's dream come true. Stu
Wait a minute. The single wheel 17" is a different animal than a dually 17". The 17" single has a semi-drop center rim where the disc attaches along the widow maker joint. The DRW Budd center disc mounts flush on the flat rim and thus has a wider diameter than the SRW design. There was a member a few years ago that had Stockton Wheel mount his WM centers in new 17" drop center rims. Worked perfectly. Two pics below show the WM center disc riveted to the joint, and second pic is the Stockton custom wheel. Stu
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