Getting codes 33 and 34...

Replaced EGR valve and sensor on top of valve.

Had only code 33 before replacing valve, with new sensor I am getting 34 as well.

Pulled battery cable for 15 minutes, but Check engine light continues to stay on.

Any help?

 

Where are these codes appearing? KOEO or CM or KOER?

Code 33 indicates the EGR is never opening, did you measure the EVP output signal? Did you test the EVR (EGR Vacuum Regulator)?

 

KOEO test. Originally brought the truck into the shop to get it checked out and they pulled codes and said the EGR valve needed to be replaced and quoted me $330.

I spent $90 and 5 minutes of my time and put a new EGR valve in myself.

After I did that it was still throwing Code 33 at me so I bought a new EVP sensor. Now I'm getting 33 AND 34 using KOEO test.

Did not measure EVP output. I have a voltmeter so I could give that a try tomorrow.

How do I go about testing the EVR? Take the EVP off and check for vacuum through the line that goes to the top of the EGR?

Thanks

 

EVP = EGR Valve Position sensor. Values listed here: Fuel Injection Technical Library » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)

EVR info: Fuel Injection Technical Library » EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR)

 

So all I did today was unplug vacuum lines, sensors, etc. and plugged them back in to ensure nothing is loose in the EGR system. Noticed that EGR valve vacuum line's rubber boot that secures the line to the top of the EGR had a crack in it. Have to track a new one down but in the meantime I just covered the crack with electrical tape. Also pulled negative battery cable to reset codes.

After all of that, now I am just getting a Code 31 doing the KOEO test. What does Code 31 mean?

 

You can learn a lot on this site:

Fuel Injection Technical Library » 2 Digit Self-test Codes 11-32

 

Found my underlying problem!



ALL vacuum lines have been replaced with 5/32" rubber vacuum hosing.

NO MORE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR CODES!!

 

A nice solute to plastic vacuum lines there.

 

I know right?!

 

Glad to see you found the problem and resolved it.

 

And I appreciate the efforts to help me!

The EGR line was broken in half, along with a couple others. So no vacuum pressure was getting to the EGR valve to open/close it.

 

Old Post, Just wanted to say, Love the middle finger to the vac lines. I am doing this exact same thing right now.

 

Having similar problems with EGR and the vac can. Was thinking about redoing the vacuum lines to see if it would straighten out the problem. Do you by chance know how much tubing you needed? Did you have to use any connectors for the lines or just hook the tubing in?

 

Why am I scared to death to replace all my vac lines like that? I need to but can't bite the bullet!!

 

I was scared too until I found another thread where they color coded the new tubing to march the ford factory colors. Just wrap each end and maybe every 8-10 inches or so with electrical tape in the same as the stock color. They wrapped to whole tube but that is too much unnecessary work for my taste. I just ordered 50 feet of vac line off Amazon for 23 bucks so I'll only be in it 30-40 and probably half a day of work by the time it is all said and done