Expedition & Navigator1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator
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I backed into the driveway a few minutes ago and lost my brakes. Under the left rear driver side I'm leaking fluid from what looks like the metal line, which is completely covered with rust.Not the rubber line from the disc, but the line which connects to a housing mounted to the frame. I called the auto store and need the diameter of the line and the length. Any assistance would be appreciated. I use my truck for my business and it's my livelihood.
I just replaced all the rear brake lines on my own 2000 XP two weeks ago. On mine, they were all 3/16".
The rear brake line goes from the ABS unit in the engine compartment, back along the outside of the driver's side frame, passes to the inside at about the rear driver's side door, then runs along the inside of the frame, behind the gas tank. At the rear lef twheel, the brake hose has two fitting holes. One for brake line in, the other for a brake line out that follows a frame cross-member over to the right wheel. So the leak you have at the rear left could be either the cross line, or the main line from the ABS.
Nice thing is, both these lines can be made up from standard lengths of pre-made brake line. For the main line, you need a 5-ft and a 6-ft. The cross line is a single 6-ft.
On the main line, I used the 5-ft from the ABS so that the union point would be before it passes inside the frame so I could get a wrench on the fittings.
For both the main line and the cross line, I pre-bent the line, using the old on as a model, as best I could. Put the old one in the brake line bender, and the new straight line in another ring of the bender right beside, then bend til they match. Getting them into place is a little tricky - patience, care, gentle - but thanks to the flexibility of the line they do go.
Probably the hardest part was getting the old main line out of the clips behind the gas tank. It parallels the gas line - no stress! I'm sure there's some magic trick to getting the clips to let go of the line. I'd fiddle at it with a screw driver for 20 minutes, then all of sudden, one right move and it would just fall out.
If one has blown from rusting, check the other carefully. Odds are it's ready to go too. And be prepared to replace both anyway, as the other will likely go when you try to remove the blown one.
Oh yeah, that reminds me - after looking at the rusted state of the fittings in the brake hose fittings, I didn't even bother trying to undo them. I just cut the lines at the brake hose fittings, and removed the brake hoses as well and replaced it all. I mean, they're only $25 each. Not worth the hassle or having rusty old fittings.
Finally, someone tried to tell me that for bleeding afterwards I'd have no choice but to go to the dealer where they'd use their computer to actuate the ABS valves for a complete bleed. I just did a regular bleed and the pedal is perfectly stiff.
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