I am preparing to do an oil change and change my fuel filters within the next couple weeks. Had a couple Qs to make sure i got everything together.
1. Many had mentioned a socket for the filter cap. I noticed online videos I watched, one guy just used an adjustable pair of pliers to do it. Is this feasible or is the socket a must buy?
2. What size is the drain plug? How does the drain plug work? As in is it something you take all the way out, or do you just loosen it up until oil starts flowing?
3. For the DIYers here, what do you guys use to catch all that oil? All the drain pans I have seen do not hold 15 qts of oil! Maybe I have not looked good enough.
4. As far as the fuel filters, I figure its pretty straightforward. I remember some mentioning that i need to get the updated drain plug. Is it a must that I buy Motorcraft fuel filters? ( I know its a must to get the motorcraft oil filter.)
You're better off with the socket for the filter cap. You don't want to break it (and it can break). A 1/2" drive will get the job done but for the long term I think the socket is worth the investment.
I don't recall the drain plug size, prob a 13mm or 15mm. Better to open it all the way. It will come out of the pan. Try not to drop it in the oil jug.
Better still get a fumoto valve.
The proper fuel filters are a must. They can be found in a motorcraft box or a plain white box sold at an International truck dealer parts store. you can find the part numbers for both on here somewhere.
They are also available online at dieselfiltersonline.com.
One caveat ... one of the guys on here noticed that one of the fuel filter offerings is being misrepresented on their site. To be sure just buy the motorcraft one and you can't go wrong.
I use a 36mm axl nut socket from autozone. It's not a common size, because it's freaking huge. A big crescent might work, but I don't think channel locks would have the oomph without risking cracking the cap. Lisle makes a shorter profile socket, but the deep one isn't too big a pain.
Don't remember the size for the drain plug, but it's just a bolt that drops all the way out. I break it loose with a socket, then use my fingers to back it out. (nitrile or latex gloves are nice for this job) it comes out in a serious rush, so either a 5 gallon buck or a 3-4 gallon pail are great for this.
Buy the motorcraft or racor filters, some thing about a membrane for water and the air bleed valve in the right place is the reason why. The updated drain plug is a nice touch, but not a requirement unless yours is corroded and stuck. I changed mine, and they make a nice $12 paperweight for a desk at the office.
Pull the oil filter as the first step. Let the oil get warmed up a little, but don't drop the plug when it's at full 190* op temp unless you like burning off your fingers.
I would recommend getting a torque wrench to tighten the filter caps down to proper specs. They are relatively inexpensive compared to the price of having your oil changed at a shop or cracking the cap and having to buy a replacement.
As far as the updated plug goes, it might not be a bad idea to get one, or at least the o-ring for it just in case. I've never changed the o-ring or the plug. The o-rings on the filter caps on the other hand should be changed every time. The new filters come with o-rings for the caps. Make sure to put some oil on them too.
Read the above links a couple times 'til you feel comfortable. It is very easy to do.
Some guys use a 5 gal bucket to catch the oil. I use a big drain pan I found at walmart. This way I can seal it up when I'm done and take it for disposal without worrying about it spilling all over. I always put a drip pan down first, then the drain pan on top of that. When you pull the oil plug out, it comes out fast and tends to get messy so that is why I use the drip pan. A bucket would probably be easier but thats how I do it.
A lot of guys buy from dieselfiltersonline. They have awesome prices. You can buy the Racor filters, which are Motorcraft equivalent.
A "free tool" to keep your hands from getting messy when getting the plug out from under the truck is to use one or two grocery bags. I first loosen the plug with a socket then put a grocery bag around my hand and keep it tight with a rubber band. Keeps your hand and forearm from getting nasty. I also do the same with the oil/fuel filters, grocery bag around one hand and another bag to put the old oil/fuel filter in it. Food for thought, has worked well for me.
Oh and last time i used a torque wrench on the upper fuel filter i stripped the lugs on the cap, not saying it will happen to you but I won't be using one again.
Dwalphin sorry to hear about your torque wrench trouble. One thing that is important when torquing relatively "light" values is to use a smaller sized torque wrench with inch lbs. instead of the larger torque wrenches that go up to 250 or 300 ft lbs. You have to do a little math to figure out the settings, but I have found mine to work well every time.
The oil pan plug is 3/4"...or at least on my truck. Only use Ford/Motorcraft, International/Navistar or Racor filters on these trucks. The correct fuel filters have the aquabloc membrane...the aftermarket filters don't. Use clean motor oil on all of the new o-rings when your re-installing the caps to keep them from binding and getting nicked. Many a thread has been started because an o-ring was nicked and allowing air into the fuel system.
Great information here. I think I can find that socket at the local Home Depot, so I may look for it there. i am going to order the fuel filters and oil filter off Amazon, all in motorcraft. I get great Amazon rewards with their credit card