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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2012, 09:40 PM
anyexcuse anyexcuse is offline
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Cheap fix for rusted cab corners?

I have a '82 regular cab and there are rust holes in the rear cab corners. This truck is rusty other places, but other than the corners the cab seems to be quite sound. I stuffed rags down in the corners from the inside so dust from gravel roads doesn't fill the cab.

I was thinking of mixing up some fiberglass Bondo that I have and patching it. Would that seal it at all, or come loose and rattle around? I think the PO used some spray foam insulation at some point, and I suppose I could do that again. Any other thoughts? My son can weld some if there is a cheap, easy way to patch a corner like that.

I don't care a whole lot about looks. I just don't like dust in the cab, and the rags get wet. Thanks!
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:51 PM
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They make cab corners just for that purpose. Try LMC.

As for fiberglass Bondo, if the metal is clean, and I mean CLEAN, it will stick. But, if you don't treat the edges of the metal or, preferably, take out all of the rust, the tin worm will keep working and, eventually, the Bondo will fall out. You would be best to clean it up as best you can, paint it with something like POR15, which will convert the rust, and then put your Bondo in.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
They make cab corners just for that purpose. Try LMC.

As for fiberglass Bondo, if the metal is clean, and I mean CLEAN, it will stick. But, if you don't treat the edges of the metal or, preferably, take out all of the rust, the tin worm will keep working and, eventually, the Bondo will fall out. You would be best to clean it up as best you can, paint it with something like POR15, which will convert the rust, and then put your Bondo in.
Thanks. I tried LMC, which I had never been to, and couldn't open their online catalog because of a server error or something. I will look into the "replacement" corners before trying the bondo, but will keep that option open.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:22 AM
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This was my cab corner last year.
Click the image to open in full size.

I bought a new one from LMC.
Click the image to open in full size.

I had a local body shop do some work for me.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

They did a few other small repairs for me too. I didn't want to practice my (lack of) welding skills on the outside of the truck, as I am going to paint it back the original color of black. I am going to do the welding on the floorboard myself though. Although, I am not going for show quality, I am wanting to do a good quality job that will last many years to come.

If your son can weld some, then I would get him to help you do the job correctly. And you will have to use some (very little) Bondo as a filler for the imperfections left after the weld gets ground down. I would also use some 2-part epoxy primer to seal everything from rusting again. Good luck with your project.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grubbworm View Post
This was my cab corner last year.
Click the image to open in full size.

I bought a new one from LMC.
Click the image to open in full size.

I had a local body shop do some work for me.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

They did a few other small repairs for me too. I didn't want to practice my (lack of) welding skills on the outside of the truck, as I am going to paint it back the original color of black. I am going to do the welding on the floorboard myself though. Although, I am not going for show quality, I am wanting to do a good quality job that will last many years to come.

If your son can weld some, then I would get him to help you do the job correctly. And you will have to use some (very little) Bondo as a filler for the imperfections left after the weld gets ground down. I would also use some 2-part epoxy primer to seal everything from rusting again. Good luck with your project.
Your before picture looks almost exacly like mine is now. Looks like yours sure turned out nice!

My truck is pretty rusty anyway, the rear fender arches are gone over the wheels, etc. That said, if I am to keep driving it, a nice fix for the cab corners wouldn't be too much to put into the body if I can save money by getting my son to help. Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:36 PM
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Can a person weld/install the LMC cab corners without removing the box? Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anyexcuse View Post
Can a person weld/install the LMC cab corners without removing the box? Thanks!
The guy that did my work charged me less because I took the bed off. I was going to do the underside of it anyway, so 2 birds with one stone.

I think I paid about $200 for the corner, $75 for the dent in the bed, and $40 for the rear cab repair. I have more pictures here; http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/97...build-log.html

Like I said, I wanted the outside of the truck to look like new and never had any repairs, once it is painted. I'm not looking for show quality or anything. I just want it to look like it has been well taken care of. I will still use it for camping, dump runs, Home Depot runs and such like that, so it will get used. And I don't have a garage, so it stays outside, and gets worked on outside as well.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:19 AM
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There are plenty of redneck quick fixes you can do. However, all of them will fall off, and you'll just find yourself frustrated over it. And no matter what redneck fix you use, the rust will still spread.

You wouldn't want to leave a cancerous tumor in your body so that it can eat away at your internals, so why would you leave cancerous rust on your truck for it to eat away at the rest of your cab corner?
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:28 AM
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adhesive

fwiw.. if you can cut, grind, wire wheel the rust out, and/or neutralize it, the product below may allow you to apply a new cab corner without welding, and without removing the box.


LORD Corporation - Metal Bonding
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:57 AM
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PM me, I have a brand new set of cab corners I bought with a bunch of parts, and don't need.
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:53 PM
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Make sure to check your cab corners on the inside after a rain, after you fix it. If you find it's still wet, your cab is probably leaking up at the gutter from the top of the door to the upper cab corner. There is a seam up there, and the body putty likes to dry out and crack, and then water leaks inbetween the inside of the cab and the outside, down into the cab corner area and rusts it out.
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:06 PM
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Epoxy bonding is really the only way to go if you don't remove the bed.

Dave is right on the leaks. I found mine was leaking through the sliding rear window but I had already caulked my gutters and body seams.
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Old 08-03-2014, 02:13 PM
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Keep in mind, this thread was just resurrected from over 2 years ago. The OP probably isn't still looking for anything. But advice to anyone who might dig up this thread 2 years from now might be worth posting anyway.
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Old 08-03-2014, 03:19 PM
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Actually it is helping me right now. I just today bought an 82 F-250 with corners that are bubbling. I want to fix them, but more importantly I want to know why it happened and how to prevent it from happening again. I will check the seams. I may also look for some sort of rubber kit to replace the gasket around the back window, and the rubber around the door windows. Thanks. Actually, I don't even have the truck in my driveway yet. I have to arrange the tow. It has a new motor but hasn't been started in two years, so I want to tow it home. It will be a 400 yard trip.
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:02 PM
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Also check the windshield seal. On Dad's truck the butyl sealer had dried and cracked above the driver's feet. That let water run in and run to the back corner and rust it out.
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:02 PM
 
 
 
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