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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2012, 03:29 PM
slc10844 slc10844 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bozo4ford View Post
MAY 31, 2012
1986 / 2.3 / EFI / GAS / 140CID / Standard cab / 5-sp / 4-Cyl.

So now, at least I have those two ford reference numbers, YEAH! I need to locate the correct 4 wire harness pigtail connectors, and top relays, for both the FUEL PUMP RELAY and ECM RELAY. (for future reference) …..and maybe a electrical diagram to where each color coded wire and gauge size connects into the correct spade or tab position.
I have a Ford wiring diagram book that shows the connectors, wires, wire colors and gauges. The only problem is it is for 1987 Ranger & Bronco II. They may use the same harnesses for multiple years. The connectors are actualy 5 wire connectors but only 4 positions are used. The fuel pump relay has orange/lt blue, yellow, red, and tan/lt green. All 16 gauge. If you think it might help, I'll try to scan the picture and post it. Never did a scan and post before so I don't know if I can make it happen.
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:52 AM
tomw tomw is offline
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Found a JPG file showing the wiring ...
Fuel pump relay
OR/LT BLU to the inertia switch - and on to the pump itself
Yellow - powere from the fusible linnk - the fuel pump power source
Red - power from EEC relay - hot with ignition on.. relay winding
TAN / LG GREEN - from computer ... ground to enable relay

EEC relay
Yellow - from fusible link - power into relay
Red - switch3ed power out to all the loads
red/lt grn - from ignition switch to relay winding
blk/lt grn - common ground with computer/HEGO/battery Neg

these were taken from a JPG file for 86 ranger bronco 2.3l engines at a library of auto info
tom
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:55 AM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Thanks Tomw,
I do appreciated the help,advice, and especially the links! thx!

You would agree that If the car starts and at least runs, then it's not the relays. I just felt with all the corrosion, it should be replaced. While I work on the more pressing matter of intermittent stalling while driving, I'll just try to temporarily clean them with QED, or some electrical spray,and apply some dielectric grease on the contacts.

More importantly, my intermittent stalling while driving is a big concern. It's hard for me to get under without a lift, I don't trust jack stands, so I guess I'll have to take it in this next week, bite the proverbial bullet and have someone replace the inline fuel filter,and maybe the pressure regulator, while the fuel is DE-pressureized, these have NEVER been replaced. I also (maybe) had five fuel injector services over my 26 year old history, and that was many years ago.

Maybe replacement of the pressure regulator, fuel filter,and something to clean my injectors might make the car run a little smoother. (fingers intently crossed)

I don't know about the IN-LINE RESERVOIR, that was renamed from a Secondary Fuel filter back in 1986-87, I was told, but.....do you know if that also should be replaced? If I could afford a new truck, believe me, I certainly would! thx

I just have to face the fact that I own an antique. I know this truck won't last forever, but from time to time I get a few hiccups along the way, and usually, it's something simple, but the not knowing of what exactly could be wrong without auto or electrical knowledge is frustrating, and expensive!!! I'll check out those links..thx tom and sic!

Sic, I have a Chiltons book from the library, FORD RANGER AND BRONCO II 1983-88, so the 1987 should work.

Uploading photos~ What I do, is scan picture,upload to my Album/Pictures on my profile,then open the picture up after downloaded to edit,then copy/paste the http address,(above the URL) then in your 'GO ADVANCED' message, click on "Insert Image" paste the address into this spot,then it should appear. The image restrictions on some sites are limited to 800x600 pixels. It would be much easier to drag and drop right into your message box, but....IS THERE AN EASIER WAY?

So Tom and Sic, as silly or redundant I made it all sound throughout all my posts pertaining to this problem, you now know what I'm talking about on the different wires from the harness 'FATTY with stripe' wire going into the brown corroded oem relay in the number 2, or middle position, THEN the newer pigtail with it's 'FATTY with stripe', in the bottom position? Maybe these diagrams may help. thanks a bunch!
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2012, 12:18 PM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Tomw,

Do you remember the name of that library book you got that .jpg from? I love pictures. I only have the Chiltons, but no photos of any wiring, only vacuum.

Quote:
EEC relay
Yellow - from fusible link - power into relay
Red - switch3ed power out to all the loads
red/lt grn - from ignition switch to relay winding
blk/lt grn - common ground with computer/HEGO/battery Neg
is this right?
Red#1,
Red/lt green #2,
Black/ltgreen#3,
then yellow is #4.

Are these in order from 1-4? Yellow#4 is by itself on both relay, and harness.
As pictured on my photos (page 2 here) My fatty is in the number 2 (middle) RED with GREEN STRIPE. and on the new pigtail their FATTY is the ORANGE with BLACK STRIPE on the very bottom.
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:33 PM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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In the link, the FUEL PUMP RELAY part -# E3FZ-9345-B, would be the matched connector to the top OEM FORD part F1HZ9345A? The base is green for fuel.

Now the corroded part I'm replacing is brown, so that would be the EEC or ECM relay. (engine control module)l

Now FORD gave me the top relay as part E4TZ12A646A, and on that PICO site, I found the EEC relay SKU: 5751C to be used with on 1983-on for Ford relays E3AZ-12A646-A. Did ford give me the wrong part#?

So on my picture of the newly bought pigtail, regardless of the bottom color of the connector, is that basically the same plug? I asked for a EEC pigtail.

On both connectors there are only 4 wires coming out of the harness, not 5. This shows the EEC having five wires.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2012, 09:51 AM
slc10844 slc10844 is offline
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Wiring Diagram

Hope this helps. If you need more let me know.
1987 Ford Ranger - Wiring Diagram
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2012, 08:43 AM
tomw tomw is offline
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The local county library apparently pays for customer access to the EBSCO library of automotive repair and maintenance information. Most times, they have PDF files, but they are not all-inclusive. They don't have all years of Escape's for example. Some are skipped.
Check with your local library to see if they have an agreement.
If your relay is a 5-pin, you cannot use a 4-pin in most cases.{I cannot speak to your specific application. Don't know part #'s either} You need to know the internal schematic of the relay to know what it is connecting/disconnecting, and where the control voltage is connected, or the control ground as the case may be.
.........
As far as your plans for replacing things, I'd say that the fuel pressure regulator would not cause your problem. When they fail, the pressure usually spikes, or the diaphragm ruptures, both leading to excessive fuel ingestion disease, along with black smoke emissions. They don't cause stalling, generally.
I've never had an injector service, still have the original filters in place {can't find replacements, but haven't tried in years}, and until recently, had no problems at all. Now, I seem to be getting an intermittent that feels like there is water in the gas. Upon thinking about it, maybe I'll use the pressure gauge aux drain to get a fuel sample and check for H2O. The gauge has a small diameter hose and a valve to allow getting fuel flow when attached and the pump is energized.

I would think the replace pigtails are pretty generic. One might have a heavier conductor in a specific location because it will fit the application that had a heavy current draw. The fuel pump doesn't seem to be a heavy draw, so it should not matter.
Just hook up the wires, in the exact same physical position to the original, and it should work. I think the decision is being belabored. If FoMoco says it is a replacement, it should work no matter the gauge of the wires. They should have taken that into account when making the 'cross'.

tom
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2012, 11:12 AM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Talking

1986 Ford ranger / 4 Cyl. / 2.3 / EFI / Manual 5-Speed // Original owner

Hey all!

Well, finally an update.
I took it in to the shop to have them take a look at it. I almost did not make to him in morning traffic, I had to continue to keep the RPMs up, before it had a chance to die out. It must have shut down about five times on my way there. So lucky for me this problem happen on the way to, and while he drove it for a test drive.

Since I’ve never replaced the fuel pump on this 26 year old ranger, I thought it best to do so now. I knew it might not fix my problem, but have to start somewhere. They also removed, and cleaned the Air Idle control (attached to the air filter box) I had previously done this about three months ago. Another thing he did was to increase the idle at the Throttle linkage. They found metal bits in the fuel filter which he suggested that the fuel pump was breaking down.

He test drove it again and said it was running with a little more power. I agreed. BUT now it’s still intermittent and some days it just dogs out with no power.

I did buy a fuel pressure regulator from autozone ($20.00) but have not put that in yet, thinking this may also not fix the problem. Besides, I don’t have that special handy-dandy allen tool to get back at the third screw closest to the injector fuel rod. I can remove the two fronts, but it’s a bear trying to get clearance to un-loosen that back screw. I can use the allen tool, but I can only move a few micrometers at a time, which would take quite a while.

So regardless of this recent work being done, this truck still wants to conk out now and then, and I don’t have a clue what causing it.

Another thing I still need help with, if someone who presently has a 1986 2.3 gas ranger, and can find the time to remove the plastic cover housing over the relays on the passenger side fender wall, look at the harness that come into the (Female) BROWN RELAY from the wire bundle.

(ECM Pigtail connector coming from the wire bundle harness CONNECTS to a Black Top, Whitish/Grey bottom SWITCH RELAYS – Male spades)

I have been getting conflicting messages as to how to connect the pigtail to the new 4 wire switch. What I am seeing now is the big striped wire is going into the middle or second position on the brown relay BUT the new relay had it’s big striped wire going into the bottom or third position on that 3 spade row.

(BROWN IS ECM RELAY, AND GREEN WAS USED FOR FUEL RELAY ….There should only be FOUR wires each on both relays)
I have photos attached in previous posts. The truck starts, so this relay is not the problem, but it’s so corroded, I feel as I should replace it anyway.

Tomw, thanks for this ~
EEC relay
Yellow - from fusible link - power into relay
Red - switch3ed power out to all the loads
red/lt grn - from ignition switch to relay winding
blk/lt grn - common ground with computer/HEGO/battery Neg

That's all great, and I do appreciate it, but I still don't know what is what,and what goes where.

Thanks!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2012, 09:46 PM
bozo4ford bozo4ford is offline
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Now what? 86 Ranger, 2.3, efi, 4 Cyl, 5-speed

86 Ranger 2.3 - Gas will not keep engine running.

Hello fellow ford rangers out there.....
Ok...here we go again. I'm still having issues, but it's intermittent.
1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed

So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.

When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........

The problem now?
Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.

It would be so pleasant if I could get close to pinpointing this cause, instead of playing the expensive process of elimination game. I DO realize what a long shot that would be, for someone to just tell me, "Hey, dude, check your ##$@&&, that's definitely your problem!", but life never seems to be easy.

Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel pump relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Idle Air Control Valve - Removed and Cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.

Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (never)
EGR Valve and sensor, (never)
Throttle Position Sensor, (never)
EVP sensor, (never)
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
Timing belt - Several years since I replaced it. Was told it needed to be replaced. No Money!
Starter - Several years ago

So, I can sure use some help from anyone who experienced these symptoms, and what did you do to correct the problem?

With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic. Thank you for any help! :-)

_____________________________________________

ME?
Maybe it's the pump. I only had the inline fuel filter changed out, and at that time, he noticed shavings in the filter, which suggested the pump was breaking down, but only he told me two weeks later, not at the time of repair. Otherwise, I would have done that too.

So with not much money and no ride, I'm going to first remove the EGR from the engine, remove the sensor, and clean all parts with carb cleaner. I will also remove, clean , and replace the Air Control valve (AIC)

I am not in any position to nickel and dime myself into oblivion, and play this dangerous game of "process of elimination" until I find the real cause(s).

So when you climb into my truck and try to turn it over after about three or four times, then it actually does turn over, idles and runs, what would be your thought?
Thanks!
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2012, 07:07 AM
tomw tomw is offline
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Back again... I would check the fuel pressure and delivery. Use a gauge attached to the fuel injector rail {tube connected to all injectors... with attached fuel pressure regulator} where there is a schraeder valve, just like on a bicycle tube. Screw on the connector, and turn the ignition to Run. The pressure should build immediately with no other action necessary. Turn off the power, and the pressure should remain near 40psi for 1/2 an hour or more with no drop. If it drops, you have a leaky check valve, injector(s) or fuel pump.
Check delivery using the 'relief' valve and tube attached to the gauge. Turn the key on, and catch fuel for a known period of time and then measure output. Do some math, and figure if it is enough to run the engine at highway speeds. If it works out to over 2-3 gallons per hour, that would be enough to run it at 60 while getting in the 20-20+ mpg range...
Other than that, I'd be checking for good grounds and tight connections, and an ignition switch that wasn't worn out. They can start to separate, and your engine will just stop.
tom
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:07 AM
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