Ranger & B-SeriesAll Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series modelsSPONSORED BY:
Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.
You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
Another (silly and maybe stupid question) which switch is which? I do I know if both relay switches look the same, are basically in the same location, (fender well well pass. side near the idle control valve on the air filter) which relay is the fuel filter, and the other is the ECC or EEC relay? They both seem to have only four spade males, going into a five hole plug off the wiring harness. three spades running in order, and the other 4th on running opposite direction.
Hello again…..…..In looking at the new switch bottom side, with lock tabs on the bottom, the two smaller spades are top, and middle, and the bottom spade is larger.
On the Ford OE pigtail switch I’m replacing, this has the same female plug-ins as my NEW SWITCH, so even though the harness wire coming off the pig-tail harness has that BIG FAT STRIPED WIRE going into the Middle hole, does this only mean this spade gets more power to this smaller middle tab, and NOT to the larger tab on the bottom?
My NEW pig-tail switch has the larger BIG FAT STRIPED WIRE coming out of the bottom female connector. Some say match exactly to what’s already there…wire to wire, and others say to match the big fat wire to that other big fat wire, that’s why as much time this has all taken, I am getting pretty confused for something that seems so simple! I’d hate very much to cross wire and cause additional problems.
Without having a fuel pressure tester, or gauge, could I just replace the regulator, or does this pressure come from the fuel pump?
I know that chasing this relay problem may not be the cause of my intermittent wanting to just conk out while driving,then having to rev up RPMS just to make it home. One day it's fine,another day it gets DOGGY.
It may be a dirty fuel filter,or pressure reg. I've been told the MAP, EGR, would not cause this problem, it would make it 'trailer" or "jump".
But inspecting my relays, one of which was pretty "gnarly" looking, which I should replace anyway...just wanted to know about the right connections, whether to pigtail wire to wire location, or match thicker, bigger, fatter striped wire to the same,but it's in a different spade slot on the female pigtail.
...just wanted to know about the right connections, whether to pigtail wire to wire location, or match thicker, bigger, fatter striped wire to the same,but it's in a different spade slot on the female pigtail.
You were told that if you connected *****-nilly, moving wires to different spots than the original layout, you would have problems. Don't you understand that the position of the wires determines what is connected to what internal to the relay???
What IS your question?
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
OK, My question is this?
DOES THIS MATTER, OR can ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THIS RED WIRE with green stripe off the wire harness GOES INTO WHICH POSITION ON THE NEW RELAY, BY LOOKING ON THE BOTTOM OF YOUR DARK BROWN OEM RELAY SWITCH, if it's still original?
(GREEN RELAY-FUEL / BROWN RELAY - EEC)
First of all, I am no mechanic or auto electrician, so sorry. I do value the help and suggestions of board member on this site very much. Usually, I am treated fairly, and not like a dumbS&%t. Yes, if I had the money I would take it to a auto repair, and not waste my time, or anyone Else's time here, but I can not. I have a very rare Cancer, and on a very limited income.
It's been a wasted weekend and all last week not wanting to damage any parts, then having to replace. maybe someone inserted the wrong wire before. Not connecting pigtails with solder, or maybe just inserted into female holes. This is a OEM FORD Dark Brown base, with pig tails, I'm trying to replace.
Ordinarily I would think that replacing wire to wire exactly would do the trick, IF the big fat striped wire was in the very same location of NEW PIG TAIL to OLD FORD OEM Pig tail, but it's NOT. So all along I'm thinking more amps/volts or whatever, would go to a smaller terminal or spade and fry something out, in the #2, or middle. Then again, IF at some point through the years, some mechanic *****-nilly wired it wrong, my truck probably wouldn't run at all.
Fords fat RED wire w/green stripe coming off the harness and into the brown female relay is in the middle slot now, but the new electrical connector Pig tail from Pep Boys in coming out of the bottom slot.
I do see that the biggest of all three spades on the both relays are on the very bottom. I'm thinking the bigger the spade, the bigger the wire.
The wires must go into the original positions in the plug or connector if you are using the original solenoid. Ignore the colors on the replacement pigtail, and match wires by position. If you know all the colors for the original, and their function, you can match them to whatever relay you plug into the socket.
Most automotive relays fit into a standard socket and have a standard pin/spade layout. Physically. Depending on the relay function, SPST, SPDT, DPST or DSDT, you will have different wires connecting internally to different positions. I cannot guarantee which does which, you have to look at the layout of the replacement solenoid bought a parts store, or the original OEM layout from the manufacturer.
You can use just about any pigtail in any application. If you are running a high load, you may require larger gauge wires in the supply, and perhaps the load.
I stand corrected about the fuel pump relay. In the EVTM it is shown on the rh fender apron, mounted very near the firewall. It has 4 wires for the 1985 model with EFI.
T/LG D tan light green hash ground to test connector & computer - enable relay
PK/BK H pink black hash power from the relay to the pump
R red power to the relay winding
Y yellow power to be passed on by the relay to the pump
If you have different colors ... can't help. The relay is a SPST. Single Pole Single Throw. It connects the Y yellow power in to the PK/BK H pink with black hash to the pump The relay is enabled when ground is provided by the test connector or the computer on the T LG D - tan with light green dash which turns on the relay, closing the power switches. The relay winding is powered by the R red wire from the computer.
In this case, the R and PK/BK H wires would carry the amps for the pump, and would generally be larger gauge.
You do not need to use a socket if you know your colors for the relay, and the relay gizzards. You can use female spade terminals directly onto the male spade terminals,
BUT you run the risk of sparking stuff if the wrong terminals touch each other!!!
If you are good, you can more the female spade terminals internal to the socket assembly by using a 'pick' to move the spring loaded retainer tabs and sliding the socket out of the plastic carrier. It can then be inserted into a different slot if you wish.
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Keep in mind that you have an aftermarket part from PEP Boys and as such may be sold for several different applications. The way the connector is configured may be right for something else but wrong for yours. If you can remove the wires from the new connector and reinstall according to the wire gauge in your old connector do so, if not, just hook it up according to position. Its best to move the heavy gauge wire to the proper position for current flow. Not moving the wires and just hooking up according wire gauge will not allow current to where it needs to go and compound your problems.
2013 Explorer Limited
87 Ranger, XLT
reinstall according to the wire gauge in your old connector
That's my dilemma.
Most tell me to connect wire to wire as shown, but the problem (if there is one at all) is that the newer Peppity Pep Boys Pig tail has it's biggest ORANGE with BLACK stripe gauge wire coming out of the bottom of this new pig tail,and NOT the way the Big FAT RED wire with green stripe coming out of the harness bundle, which is CURRENTLY CONNECTED to the second or middle hole, as shown in the OEM brown relay.
I am so sorry to put all you through the ringer here, but I called three FORD Dealership parts depts, and they don't even know what I'm talking about, since they tell me this 1986, an antique, and therefore, no support. There are newer superseded numbers to replace the old, if they can find them, which they tell me they can not.
I could very well, match wire location to wire location, but it's that difference of gauge wire between the middle and bottom I'm concerned with between the old and the new.
The locking tab color is dark brown.
The only thing I saw on the top box is a two colored Black on top,and White-off white bottom, connecting into the dark brown pigtail female harness 4-wire. With only these series of numbers...
E93B-2C013, the letters below this are all faded.
On an old post, I saw these numbers that someone gave me a few years ago.
Ford's new numbers are way different now, and they don't know what these are. They might be OEM Fuel and EEC Relay.
Green base-E3TB9345-AZA (4-Pin)
Grey base- E4LB13A025-AZA(5-pin)
Do you know if the EEC-IV is in the pass. side RH kick wall, and the EEC relay switch is by the fuel relay switch on the pass.side fender well. Thank s for any help!
I read the entire thread this morning and would like to address a couple of points.
Fuel filter - there may very well be two on your vehicle. The first is the metal can positioned between the high pressure pump and the engine. This is the most replaced and easiest to get to. The second is a paper cartridge and is in a canister mounted on the frame rail between the fuel tank and the high pressure pump. The bottom of the canister unscrews and the filter is inside. There should also be an o-ring that will need to be replaced. The canister is hard to see because there is usually a metal plate over it. Somewhere between 86 & 87 they eliminated the filter but the canister remained and Ford refers to is as a reservoir. I recommend replacing the can filter and try to capture or shake out some of the contents from the inlet side into a clean container. If there is water and a lot of debris, this could be your problem.
Wiring - I agree with Tomw. If the corrosion is the problem, you should be able to clean if off, check the pins to make sure they are tight and reinstall with a protective film of grease. The recommended way top splice wires is to strip back, twist together lengthwise, solder, and cover with shrink tubing. Butt connectors have their place but not under the hood. Soldered joints are always the prefered method. If you decide to replace the connector the wires should be soldered to ensure a good bond between. A test light would be helpful checking to see if current is getting to the wires.
The pictures you post were very good and if you can do the same with the plug end of the new connector it would help. If it were me, and the old connector is in usable condition, I would only replace the questionable wire and leave the rest alone. Since the new connector is aftermarket, you need to determine if the wires are attached like the factory. If not you have to do all of the wires.
2013 Explorer Limited
87 Ranger, XLT
sLc, I posted a few pics on the first page of this post, but here is s close up of that new part I wanted to replace the corroded part with.
ANOTHER FOUND RELAY IN MY SHED....This may be the fuel relay, since it's green.
I also found an old OEM FORD switch I must have replaced years ago, and this switch is a green one, with numbers stamped as follows: 1CCEB13853-AA, (the smiley is an 8 and a D, between the 1CCE and the B) and was told by Ford the new superceded number for that old part is now F8PZ14N135-EA. I think this could be the original or Ford replacement for a Fuel relay, but the list price was $48.50...maybe that why I went with less expensive switch relays. Oddly enough, this is a box that has only 3 Pins. I looked all over the fender well Pass. side to see if I missed this three prong relay somewhere.
It looks like you have to remove the red cap of the new connector to release the wires. In the bottom of the picture between the two horizonal openings is a small rectangular slot. The release is probably inside the slot. Look in that area for a tab. If you have a small thin screw driver, gently work inside that opening to see if it will release. The black housing should be flexable enough to take a little prying. You might also be able to work between the red cover and the housing, but be gentle. Once the red cover is off the wires should just come out.
Looking at your bottom picture, I assume the corrosion you have is at the exposed wire. Unless there is more corrosion up inside the wire terminal, or the wire has broken strands, I don't think a new connector is going to fix the problem.
2013 Explorer Limited
87 Ranger, XLT
MAY 31, 2012
1986 / 2.3 / EFI / GAS / 140CID / Standard cab / 5-sp / 4-Cyl.
First of all, those numbers appearing in the top photo # E93b-2C013, Ford tells me this part is actually an ANTI-LOCK RELAY, which is weird, since I don't have ABS on this year! Oddly enough, this part is the TOP Relay for my existing ECM corroded relay...so sorry I'm so confused by all these ford obsolete parts and cross reference after market nonsensical relay parts that may or may not work in my truck.
This is what I’ve found. After talking with a Ford dealership parts dept.,
They gave me the reference numbers for
(1) Fuel Pump relay - F1HZ9345A
(2) EEC relay - E4TZ12A646A
THESE ARE ONLY THE TOP MALE RELAYS, BUT I NEED THE BOTTOM HARNESS 4-SPADE WIRING THAT COMES OFF THE WIRING HARNESS THAT IS LOCATED ALONG THE PASS. FENDER WELL.
Autozone’s numbers foe Fuel pump relay - #20393, and
EEC, which came back as ECM, or Powertrain Control – #19841
These are relays, and what I need are the harness pigtails, the 4-wire females that these top snap-in “relays” plug into. I’ve tried a few area auto wrecking places and they don’t have them at all.
Does anyone know where to find either the EEC, (or ECM) or Fuel Pump relay 4-wire female PIGTAIL, that comes off the bundled wiring harness from this 1986 year, or is my only hope is some wrecking yard when they come in?
If I do find them at a wrecking, or parts yard, I know I’ll probably have to snip them off myself and solder together to the top male wire relays, but trying to clean this existing corroded part is a waste of time, and might go bad anytime in the near future anyway.
…….So I called O’Reilly auto parts.
FUEL PUMP RELAY Search for my year and got #R647, but uses BWD connector PT5613, I looked that up and saw it was a 5-white wire connector for Rangers 1990-1992. I looked up my newly bought pigtail BWD - PT5685, and the guy came back with no connector match.
ECM (Engine control module) R3080 Relay, but also, no pigtail connector counterpart.
So now, at least I have those two ford reference numbers, YEAH! I need to locate the correct 4 wire harness pigtail connectors, and top relays, for both the FUEL PUMP RELAY and ECM RELAY. (for future reference) …..and maybe a electrical diagram to where each color coded wire and gauge size connects into the correct spade or tab position.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.