Well the final payment has been made and I will be getting my new/old 1960 F100 4x4 shipped asap. Right now it has a 429 in it (not sure what tranny). I want to put a 300 straight six in her that I will be rebuilding. I will be keeping it an automatic and would like to get a C6 to rebuild and put it in along with the 300. Can anyone give me some direction on what to get the C6 out of? Does it have to be a 4x4 because the transfer case is divorced in the 1960 I would imagine. As soon as I get her home I will post some pics and post them through the rebuild also. Thanks for the help.

Ron

 

From the factory a 1960 should have had a divorced transfer case, something along the lines of a NP205 I believe. I don't think that the C6 was ever used in a divorced situation (maybe in the 70's?) meaning that you would have to use one from a non 4x4 donor vehicle. A transmission with a married transfer case wont work if you would like to retain your divorced setup.

 

OK thanks, easy enough. Do I have to worry about the bell housing or will any C6 bolt up to a 300? Since I'm planing to have the tranny rebuilt anyway is the anything I should be requesting on the rebuild in going from a two wheel drive to be used on a four wheel drive set up? I plan on useing this as a daily driver, some highway mostly in town.

 

I was under the impression that a C6 had the bellhousing cast into it. Also I think that any C6 from a small block ford will bolt up to a 300 I6. Someone in a recent thread was just talking about that. So something 351 and smaller. Might want to take a look at the recent 300 I6 thread.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-six-swap.html

 

OK will do. Wasn't aware that it was a one piece. Thanks again for the help.

 

Many 300s did have a C6 behind them so it shouldn't be too hard to do. You will have to figure out a driveline, depending on whether you get a tranny with a bolted on yoke or a slip yoke. You will also have to build a shifter bracket for the T-case.
Personally I prefer a C4 on the smaller engines. There is much less parasitic power loss. I have read that a C6 can gobble as much as 60 horsepower and some guys claim even more.
Since it won't be stock anyway, why not just get the whole drivetrain from something in the 80s and use an AOD with a married 208. It would be much cleaner, you'd have overdrive and no middle driveshaft to fool with. Or even an early 80s would have a C6 and probably a 208 but possible a 205

 

I am open to all suggestions. I am not going stock and just want what ever will work best. I have had a C6 in my 87 F150 4x4 for years and never had any problems with it. That combined with everything I've read on other threds here leaned me towards the "bullet proof" C6. I've never had a C4 so didn't really have any type of an opinion on them. I was also under the impression from what I read that a divorced transfer case was better but again I'm open to any suggestions.

 

I better start out by saying that I have never owned an automatic, heck I can't even drive one (I tried once) but I do know that the numbers say C6's do eat hp a bit. The 300 has enough torque but is a little light on horsepower. Just the nature of an I6. As for the transfer case a divorced setup is "easier" especially for engine swaps but there is a reason that nothing uses a divorced transfer anymore. For a daily driver it probably really wont matter in the end, although a married transfer would be slightly more efficient. I think an entire 80's drivetrain would be a great idea especially with an AOD and married transfer

 

I'll be increasing the HP with the engine rebuild so I'm not to concerned about a small loss. If I were to go with the 80's C6 which would be a better transfer case a 208 or a 205? Sorry for all the questions but dealing with tranny set ups are all new to me and I'm pretty green with the process.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...tml#post372422

might be interesting. I have no knowledge on the transfer cases!

 

Caveman; I can share my experience which is limited to my 59 F250 4x4. If your new 60 4x4 has factory running gear. It will have a divorced transfer case.
I have in the past run a 351 Cleveland 4v with a C6 out of a 71 Torino. The c6 was trouble free. However the space between trans and transfer was close and I ended up running an H block constant velocity joint as the drive shaft (not the best idea). It worked but was hard on U-joints when pushed hard. So, You should look for the C6's with short tail shafts and with a I6 you will have less space to move the engine forward.
Also your F100 probably came with 3.92 diffs. You may want to consider an AOD if possible.
Not sure what your plans for the truck are DD, playing or serious 4x4?
Good luck in your quest. Lots to consider.

 

Teddy,

Thanks for the input. I will be using the truck as a daily driver but will still need good 4x4 capability on occation. Can you recomend vehicle/year I should be looking for when I call the yards in my area? I think from what I could reasearch that I would like a set up that includes a NP 205 transfercase. Would I have a better set up if the tranny wasn't divorced or will a short tail piece eliminate the problem you had?

 

Caveman It seems to me that the fixed yolk tail shafts are the shortest C6's.
I'm not sure how long the I6 is compared to 351c.
When you get your truck you'll know more of what you have to work with.
If its original, the transfer case it will be a Dana 24.

 

The 205 is the tough kid on the block but I have owned several 208s and never had any problem with them. I had an 82 Bronco that was still running strong at 200,000 with a 300/C6/208. Those old pickups and broncos can be found cheap cheap cheap, lots of them going to the crusher.
If you decide to build the 300, do some lurking around at Fordsix.com, lots of good knowledge there.
I have built a couple and have all the stuff to build another one. The one I am running in my 92 F-250 has a Comp 260 cam, Offy C intake, 390 Holley, efi dual exhast manifolds and my own homebrew high energy ignition. I wouldn't do the 260 cam again, it moves the power band up about 500 rpms and you loose some of that wonderful low end grunt. Stock or Isky Mile-a-More cams are the best for torque.
My truck runs great and starts easy but is a gas hog, 12 at best and about 7 when I tow. Partly because I am in the 4 barrels all the time to get any power. One of these days the Holley is going bye bye and I am going to experiment with some 2 barrel carbs, autolite 2100 or maybe a rochester 2GC