You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Guys- I just replaced the master control switch for a second time and it is out again. When it fails, it is only the front two windows that stop working. Also, at night I noticed that the front two window buttons aren't getting power. Could I have shorted it out by pressing both front windows down at the same time? Also, is there a fuse in the switch that I can replace vs buying another one? Help please, these switches are expensive and funds are tight.
I know that the front two windows operate on an independent circuit from the rear two, and usually the switch assembly is where the short takes its toll.. As for where exactly, that may be a chasing game where you might want to look at the harness from the window switch through the door frame and into the cab... Some where there is a short, causing you to cook switches!
As for depressing both at the same time, it was designed that you can do that, but it does take an extra load doing so. So its not out of its operating parameters for the switched to be operated at the same time!
Sorry its not much help.. I have had to chase down several electrical nightmares involving PW issues!
__________________ - Chris - 1994 F-350 CC Dually : DRW 4x4 XLT, 97 7.3 DIT conversion, tuned, open pipe and modded!.
Thanks Midwest Dually! Question, as I search for the short, what exactly am I looking for? Thanks in advance and sorry for the rookie question...I'm not very experienced in electrical stuff.
Even if you were very experienced with the electrical stuff, it would be a challenge! LOL! I can't tell you how many times I fought this battle!
I would remove the door panels and look at the harness there in the door. Stupid things like a bracket coming loose and letting the wires get caught by the window when it travels, or in the housing cast that is in the door jam. Next would be the kick panel area.
More often then not, I catch a lot of problems in the door panel area!
Things to look for, loose pins inside the connector, breaks in the wiring insulation, wet points and pinch points.
I am sorry this is not a huge help, but hopefully it will get found!
__________________ - Chris - 1994 F-350 CC Dually : DRW 4x4 XLT, 97 7.3 DIT conversion, tuned, open pipe and modded!.
First, you must understand electricity /circuits and terminology....
If you had a SHORT (when 2 circuits connect when designed not to, IE, power to ground) the protective device (fuse) would melt....
Lose of B+ power indicates an OPEN circuit.
This is most common in the Explorer, Check the feed (+) and ground (-) circuts in the accordion (for broken wires) between the door and door column....These types of breaks/open circuits, make/break as the door opens and closes...some times welding temporarily, making it difficult to chase..... Philip
__________________
97, 4Dr, Controltrac, X engine, 390k
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
