OK, I know there's got to be a relatively simple way to do this!
My 5.0 JUST developed a knock and w/ 141K on it now not sure it's worth tearing into when I can pick up a good running 5.8L for a couple hundred (less than it would cost to repair my 5.0!). Plus, I really wouldn't mind the added power of the 5.8! Soooo, 5.8 is SD obviously. Is it a simple matter of swapping out the blocks and attaching the entire 5.0 MAF harness? Any sensors that'd need to come off the 5.0 and go on the 5.8? Is the MAF 5.0 the same firing order as the SD 5.8?
Also, the donor Bronco has an AOD (?) in it. Can I run the torque converter that's on the flexplate of the 5.8 or should I swap on the TC that's on my 5.0. Keeping my E40D that's in the F-150 bolted to my 5.0 right now. I know the 5.8 is 28oz imbalance and the 5.0 is 50oz so the respective flexplates will stay with their engines. E40D will bolt right up to the 5.8 just not sure what I should do with the TC or if they're the exact same between the two.
Exhaust will have to change to fit the 5.8 but needed an excuse to ditch the bone stock 5.0 exhaust anyhow!
Thanks for any suggestions you guys have got. Just trying to get a handle on how big a job this will be above and beyond swapping blocks.
You need a complete 5.8 EFI motor for this swap.. oilpan to throttlebody because very few of the 5.0 parts will swap over. You also need a 28oz C6/E4OD flexplate if that's not what's on that motor now, it's not likely an AOD because that trans was never factory installed behind the 5.8. The 5.0 engine harness will plug into the 5.8 fine with one exception, in 1990 the TFI module was on the distributor and it's remote on your truck, so you'll have to either modify the existing 5.8 distributor with the pickup from your 5.0 distributor or find a later model 5.8 distributor for a remote TFI setup.
All that done this particular vintage 5.8 will be a bit of a disappointment power wise unless the stock cam is upgraded, this 5.8 motor makes more low rpm TQ than your 5.0 but less HP and you will feel that from the drivers seat, but upgrade the cam and it's no contest the 5.8 will outmuscle the 5.0 from idle to redline. This vintage 5.8 is a flat tappet motor and the recommended cam is the Crane 444232 but if that's not available you may consider converting it to a roller with the Comp 35-512-8 and linkbar roller lifters or even the stock roller cam assembly from your 5.0 with 5.8 roller pushrods.
Thanks Conanski! Any idea what year the 5.8 went to a remote TFI? I just spotted a complete '92 5.8L for sale too. Waiting to hear back what exactly it came out of and how many miles are on it. Not too worried about HP as this is (and never will be while I own it) a stoplight to stoplight rig. Torque is a different question and the more the merrier!
As a second runner up there is a guy here on base that has a MAF mustang 5.0 sitting on a pallet at the auto hobby shop on base where I'm working on a project. I know the stang motors are setup a tad differently but it'd be an easy swap as well. Swap intakes, drop my distributor in the block, hook up the harness and run it. Could probably swap my F-150 cam into the mustang motor too if that would be adviseable for bottom end performance.
Yeah somewhere around 1992 was when the switch happened, the distributor mod I mentioned isn't that hard but you have to completely dismantle both distributors of course. The Mustang 5.0 will produce less low rpm TQ than the motor you had unless you swap in your truck cam and then it will be exactly the same.. no upgrade, but like I said even an old 5.8 produces quite a bit more grunt so that's the way to go for towing and general truck purposes.
Thanks again Conanski. Looks like this will be my route of choice. Got a call back on the 5.8 this morn and it's out of an F-250 that saw light duty and was in a front end wreck. About 80K on the ticker.
Pulled the upper intake and pass side valve cover this afternoon on the 5.0 to try and identify anything wrong. Everything top side looks and feels normal so I'm guessing I've got a bad lifter. Judging from the amount of sludge in this engine it's a wonder it ran at all! Looked like black mud caked everywhere! Couldn't even identify the head bolts. Hopefully the 5.8 was maintained a little better than this 5.0 before I got it... Looking at it Tues around noon and looking to swap this weekend.
Anyone have a part # for a 5.8L flexplate? This 5.8 I'm looking at has a flywheel for man trans on it that I'll need to swap out. I need a flexplate that'll take my torque converter from the back of my 5.0L w/ E40D.
Edit: anyone confirm or deny if this looks like the right one? Napa search: 1995 F-150, 5.8L, E40D/4R100, 4wd, flexplate =
Napa part# BK 6005009
Balance weighted: Yes
Crankshaft diameter: 1.75"
Flex Plate O.D.: 14.23"
OK, swap is ON! Got the donor 5.8l in the back of the truck right now.
Conanski, any idea if there is a "how to" on the dizzy mod? This 5.8 has the dizzy mounted TFI & I'll need to change it to remote mount.
I've had some Flowtech shorties layin' around that look like direct replacements of the 5.8 manifolds (SAWEET!). I'll clean those up, run 2.5" from headers back to a 3" Y w/ a 3" Magnaflow muffler I also happen to have. Hopefully be lookin' at the same MPG as my tired 5.0 (maybe a lil better), mo powa & a healthy sound!
Haha! Gotta love Hawaii. I drove by a local shop to see what they'd charge to run new exhaust after the swap. $465 (keep in mind I'm providing the headers & muffler!) & that included his $119 Y pipe. Ok, what's the price if I provide my own Y pipe? Here's a lesson in Hawaiian math... 465-119= .... $450! Ahhh, ok so I guess you're gonna get your money either thru parts OR labor... Good thing the auto shop has up to 3" dies for the exhaust bender. Lookin like a DIY exhaust. Was hoping to save a little time but not with that kine o math!
The dizzy mod is pretty easy in your case, you completely dismantle both distributors which means pressing the pin out of the drive gear and pulling the gear, once that is off you can pull the main shaft up through the body and remove the PIP module. That module is what you have to transfer to the 5.8 dizzy and it'll bolt in you just have to drill a hole in the body for the wiring harness and gromet. After that reassemble the dizzy and you're in business.
P.S. If you remove the TFI module from the 5.8 distributor there will be a hole which may not be desirable, you could put that module back on to cover the hole if you like or fill it with silicone for example.. whatever works.
Picked up my new flexplate from Napa along w/ a 1 piece oil pan seal, oil filter, new motor mounts, new serp belt, new water pump, new thermostat, some header paint and Ford grey engine paint. Gonna work on cleanup and prep/ paint from now until swap day on Saturday then it's game on!
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