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XRF Ball Joints- Testing

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  #76  
Old 03-02-2017, 01:08 PM
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The Taiwan thing has been a reality for a good long time, but I have both experienced and continue hearing about Moog's declining quality.

I just did another check on what's currently available and ran across a brand I've never seen or head of before -- Rare Parts. Apparently, they offer some dual load ball joint kits (for JK's) where the uppers actually carry some load to increase the life of the lower joints. Even the one's specified by O'Reilly's for my 2WD F250 are NOT CHEAP!!!

Rare Parts OEM Site Linky >>> Aftermarket Steering & Suspension Parts | Diamond Series | RareParts

Dual Load Linky >>>
 
  #77  
Old 03-02-2017, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by F250_
I just did another check on what's currently available and ran across a brand I've never seen or head of before -- Rare Parts.
Rare Parts OEM Site Linky >>> Aftermarket Steering & Suspension Parts | Diamond Series | RareParts

Dual Load Linky >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhH0QY9_1F8
Hmm, I wonder if Camo has any info on them.

@pirate4x4_camo

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  #78  
Old 03-02-2017, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Way over 20k on my XRF ball joints by now, but it doesn't really count since I'm only a 2wd.
Still have the same XRF ball joints in my 02 which is now sitting at 560,000 miles, so it's not like I've let the grass grow underneath it.
 
  #79  
Old 03-02-2017, 06:55 PM
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Never heard of them, I'd have to look at the parts and more so the upper ball joint socket to evaluate. I am skeptical they make a difference,

If you want the best ball joints money can buy get the ones from Dynatrac. If you want the best "affordable" joints made stick with Spicer.

Great source for spicer parts
Super Duty Axle Parts Kits Archives - Ventures Truck Parts
 
  #80  
Old 11-18-2017, 06:03 PM
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Just want to post I ordered the XRF upper and lower ball joints for my 2003 SD RWD truck.. It seem like the ones in there are OEM and mileage is currently 180K.

When i bought truck 2.5 yrs ago at 163K I noticed the rumble in the front end when going over some what rough and unleveled roads surfaces so i figured it was about time to replace ball joints. The PO had gotten drag link tie rod ends ?replace several years ago and brake hose on passenger side.. going to replace driver side hose now as well.

I had thought about replacing the front hubs and with the cyro brake rotors slotted and power stop pads but not able at this time to swing all the expense plus the current pads have a lot of life left in them so I will wait till next year. We are not towing in mtn area for most part and i have EBPV exhaust brake so use of brakes with trailer is minimum.

I hope to get many years and mile of life from these guys and feel good about them due to you guys that have used them and reported back and I say thanks
to all.

any idea how much it cost to get a repair shop to do this?? just trying to figure how much I am saving by doing the take off adn put back my self.. Plan to take knuckles and joint to local auto parts house that does machine shop stuff. I think they are like 10 buck per joint to remove and replace but need to check.
 
  #81  
Old 11-19-2017, 02:20 PM
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Carl, if you can remove the knuckles - you can change ball joints. 'Rent' (free) the ball joint tool from your favorite autoparts store. You need either the big kit or supplemental 4wd adapter kit with standard ball joint tool kit.

You'll either need a hub axle seal tool or build one to install hub axle seals and to put axles back into the knuckle. I generally plan to replace the hub axle seals when I do ball joints.
 
  #82  
Old 11-19-2017, 02:32 PM
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thanks man i appreciate the vote of confidence for sure.. I may give that a try as they ball joints wont be here till maybe after thanksgiving.

This time of year we get real busy with jobs and when i get in monkeying with a ball joint tool is not high on the list.. I do need to call the parts house to see how much they charge to do this as well.. I think at one time it was like 10 bucks per joint so 40 or even 80 bucks is not a big deal..

we do chimney cleaning and gas logs service in the Raleigh nc area and most of the time i spend my day on the floor on my knees working inside the box sometime cleaning or replacing the pilot assembly.. but alot of up and down going to the van to get stuff etc..

mine is a 2 wd drive so not all the hardware to deal with of the 4x4.. now getting them, 4x4 hubs, loose looks like a mother f'ing bear for sure..

Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Carl, if you can remove the knuckles - you can change ball joints. 'Rent' (free) the ball joint tool from your favorite autoparts store. You need either the big kit or supplemental 4wd adapter kit with standard ball joint tool kit.

You'll either need a hub axle seal tool or build one to install hub axle seals and to put axles back into the knuckle. I generally plan to replace the hub axle seals when I do ball joints.
 
  #83  
Old 11-19-2017, 04:59 PM
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It's going to be a lot more than $80 for the labor is my guess.
 
  #84  
Old 11-20-2017, 07:32 AM
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just called the shop and it 20 buck per joint.. so 80 buck total.. that is a deal. now to get the XRF joints in and over to them..

If i had the time and a nice big bench vise I would get the loaner kit at autozone and do it my self but 80 bucks is not bad plus cost of joints at 100 bucks I am saving some 1000 dollars
over having the shop take care of it.

Happy thanksgiving to all..

EIDT.. called a couple of local repair shops and getting prices to replace supplied joints at around 650 - 750 bucks so I am saving at least 550 buck on doing it my self.

Originally Posted by F350-6
It's going to be a lot more than $80 for the labor is my guess.
 
  #85  
Old 11-20-2017, 08:11 AM
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So the shop is going to press out the old and press the new in? Or, are you driving the truck in and they are removing the knuckle and R&R the joints?
 
  #86  
Old 11-20-2017, 03:48 PM
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for $80 buck i think not.. that runs $700 ish.. the knuckle is on my garage floor I just take it to them with new joints..

Originally Posted by Dan V
So the shop is going to press out the old and press the new in? Or, are you driving the truck in and they are removing the knuckle and R&R the joints?
 
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  #87  
Old 11-20-2017, 06:36 PM
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I follow you now. I thought you were thinking $80 for the entire job. Once you've got it broken down this far, a quick grab with the snap ring pliers and a couple of good whacks with a BFH and you're pretty much done. Or the rental tool with an impact wrench works too.

You've done most of the hard work already. Seems like it's the equivalent of paying a tire shop to put the lug nuts on after you mounted and balanced the tires.
 
  #88  
Old 11-20-2017, 06:57 PM
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i know i know.. depending on weather later this week i might go to autozoo and get the kit and do it my self.. thur heading to beach for thanksgiving with MIL, friday thanksgiving with my family, Sat work in morning and NC State vs Carolina Football game, last one of the season, in the afternoon so that leaves only sunday and that is carolina panthers game day.. so taking them to shop and forking out 80 bucks is a deal.

SO there you have it.. the nitty gritty..


Originally Posted by F350-6
I follow you now. I thought you were thinking $80 for the entire job. Once you've got it broken down this far, a quick grab with the snap ring pliers and a couple of good whacks with a BFH and you're pretty much done. Or the rental tool with an impact wrench works too.

You've done most of the hard work already. Seems like it's the equivalent of paying a tire shop to put the lug nuts on after you mounted and balanced the tires.
 
  #89  
Old 11-20-2017, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by carl2591
i know i know.. depending on weather later this week i might go to autozoo and get the kit and do it my self.. thur heading to beach for thanksgiving with MIL, friday thanksgiving with my family, Sat work in morning and NC State vs Carolina Football game, last one of the season, in the afternoon so that leaves only sunday and that is carolina panthers game day.. so taking them to shop and forking out 80 bucks is a deal.

SO there you have it.. the nitty gritty..
I guess I'm just spoiled. A couple of years ago I upgraded my satellite and got one with a DVR. Don't think I've watched an entire football game live since. Set it to record and don't start watching until it's at least half way over. Skip all the commercials and just enjoy the game.

And if you took that approach, you'd have just enough time to either do it yourself, or drive down, drop off the parts, and then drive back home to watch the game.

But it is the holiday season, and there are plenty of things to do. And I can think of worse things to blow $80 on. Plus I don't know what the weather is like there or your working conditions. Enjoy your long weekend whichever route you choose.

I think I might get to swap a turbo on the nieces 6.0, but it should be in the 70's here and I've got a nice workshop to play in, plus a DVR for any football games that might come on.
 
  #90  
Old 11-21-2017, 07:50 AM
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It will take longer to go to the shop, drop off knuckles, return to shop and pick them up than it will to press these out yourself. You don't need a vise - or even a workbench. I wouldn't want to do it without an impact wrench though...

Yours aren't even crusty. Those things will push right out of there. I'd say 30mins for all (4) because its your first time. Figuring out the right parts to use is the hardest part. There are a lot more parts in the kit that you don't use than parts you do use.
 


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