XRF Ball Joints- Testing
#31
I have a set of XRF ball joints for our '93 E150. I've installed ball joints before but not greaseable ball joints. I read a half dozen write-ups on this site, even ones with a specific step of installing grease fittings, but none specifically say to grease the ball joints. Do they come greased or should they be greased once installed?
Thanks,
Sixto
'93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles
Thanks,
Sixto
'93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles
#33
#36
UPDATE: I thought you guys would be very interested in what I am currently experiencing with both XRF and Moog. I've been in warranty mode with Moog before, but am going through it with XRF for the first time.
Brief history... Passenger side joints (Moog) installed in March of 2009. Driver side joints (XRF) installed in May of 2009. After 13 months (only 20,000 miles), the Moog upper (passenger side) had worn excessively. Moog warrantied the upper. At that time, the XRF was running great.
Today, while setting up for an alignment and two new front tires (I replaced inner and outer tie-rods on both sides last night), the tire shop now tells me that I need BOTH upper joints replaced again. At this point, I've had the Moog fail at about 20,000 miles and then again at about 50,000 miles, and the XRF has gone 70,000 miles to reach its first failure.
A quick comment about warranty. When I called XRF a few minutes ago, they are replacing BOTH the upper AND lower joints on the side where only the upper failed, and the new units are being shipped out TODAY!!
At this point, I am certainly more pleased with the XRF durability and am exceptionally pleased with their warranty service. I went ahead and am foregoing the Moog warranty for my passenger side and am putting XRF joints back in BOTH sides! This approach is getting me a completely new set of ball joints all the way around, and at only the cost of a single pair because of XRF's great warranty philosophy.
To boot, XRF is not even requiring me to send in the failed upper joint!!
Brief history... Passenger side joints (Moog) installed in March of 2009. Driver side joints (XRF) installed in May of 2009. After 13 months (only 20,000 miles), the Moog upper (passenger side) had worn excessively. Moog warrantied the upper. At that time, the XRF was running great.
Today, while setting up for an alignment and two new front tires (I replaced inner and outer tie-rods on both sides last night), the tire shop now tells me that I need BOTH upper joints replaced again. At this point, I've had the Moog fail at about 20,000 miles and then again at about 50,000 miles, and the XRF has gone 70,000 miles to reach its first failure.
A quick comment about warranty. When I called XRF a few minutes ago, they are replacing BOTH the upper AND lower joints on the side where only the upper failed, and the new units are being shipped out TODAY!!
At this point, I am certainly more pleased with the XRF durability and am exceptionally pleased with their warranty service. I went ahead and am foregoing the Moog warranty for my passenger side and am putting XRF joints back in BOTH sides! This approach is getting me a completely new set of ball joints all the way around, and at only the cost of a single pair because of XRF's great warranty philosophy.
To boot, XRF is not even requiring me to send in the failed upper joint!!
#37
P.S. Thank you for your XRF testing. My front axle is for a 2007 F250/F350 and I plan to change out my ball joints early next Spring and will go with XRF. If you know, is there a particular type or model number XRF you like or is there only one XRF model for each F250 model year?
#38
Well, being a factory rep for Schaeffer Manufacturing, I only use one of their waterproof No.2 moly grease products that is formulated with an aluminum complex thickener and has additional tackifiers to help it stick in place (either product number 221 or 274). I would strongly suggest staying away from lithium based grease products because the lithium thickeners can be fairly easily washed out with water. If you can find a marine-grade moly grease, that would be your best bet.
The only thing to watch out for is the fact that all greases do not mix and can cause grease/thickener separation which will lead to early bearing failure. For example, some of the marine grade grease products are made with calcium-based thickeners which are not always compatible with lithium- or aluminum complex- based greases. Bentone greases are also not compatible with much of anything except for other bentone greases. You can make the switch from one type of grease to one that is not compatible with it, but you have to go through a thorough purging cleanout process to make sure that the old grease is completely removed before injecting the new grease.
I don't mean to be vague, but I also can't be brand-specific either because of the hundreds of products which are out there, and I don;t know which you may or may not have access to. The bottom line is that you should compare the grease manufacturer's compatibility charts to be sure that you're not going to complicate your life with incompatible products that could lead to premature bearing/joint failure. Once you find a product you want to consider, you can send me a PM and I'll be glad to help you do a comparison of compatibilities.
The only thing to watch out for is the fact that all greases do not mix and can cause grease/thickener separation which will lead to early bearing failure. For example, some of the marine grade grease products are made with calcium-based thickeners which are not always compatible with lithium- or aluminum complex- based greases. Bentone greases are also not compatible with much of anything except for other bentone greases. You can make the switch from one type of grease to one that is not compatible with it, but you have to go through a thorough purging cleanout process to make sure that the old grease is completely removed before injecting the new grease.
I don't mean to be vague, but I also can't be brand-specific either because of the hundreds of products which are out there, and I don;t know which you may or may not have access to. The bottom line is that you should compare the grease manufacturer's compatibility charts to be sure that you're not going to complicate your life with incompatible products that could lead to premature bearing/joint failure. Once you find a product you want to consider, you can send me a PM and I'll be glad to help you do a comparison of compatibilities.
#41
When I did all my new tie-rods last night, each one took at least 6-8 pumps to start expanding the boots. Having done both my front wheel bearings and the tie-rods in the past 6 months, I've probably used 75% of a tube just on my F250. Admittedly, though, I won't have to shoot them again for a while, but I do need to revisit my u-joints again.
#42
I got about 100k out of the MOOG BJ's on my dually and swapped them out at O'Riellys - where they were purchased - no questions asked. The 2nd set now have about 80k miles on them. This truck averages at least 10k lbs and rolls on 33" tall tires.
The MOOG BJ's on my X have about 70k miles on them now and no slop yet. 40k miles with HUGE 325/60/18 tires and 10" wide wheels...
If I had any less service life from them, I might switch - but at this rate I'll just let MOOG/O'Riellys gimme another set every 100k or so. I realize not everyone has the same 'luck' as I've had - even my tire store says they have changed a few (on PSD's) at ~30k miles before...
The MOOG BJ's on my X have about 70k miles on them now and no slop yet. 40k miles with HUGE 325/60/18 tires and 10" wide wheels...
If I had any less service life from them, I might switch - but at this rate I'll just let MOOG/O'Riellys gimme another set every 100k or so. I realize not everyone has the same 'luck' as I've had - even my tire store says they have changed a few (on PSD's) at ~30k miles before...
#43
Well I am now sold on the XRF and as I look around they seem to cost a little less than the moog and at worse they are the same price as Moog.
So where are you guys buying your XRF parts ??? I would think it best to buy from XRF for the sake of the warranty. Because to me making good on the warrany without it being a hassle is worth every penny paid.
So where are you guys buying your XRF parts ??? I would think it best to buy from XRF for the sake of the warranty. Because to me making good on the warrany without it being a hassle is worth every penny paid.
#45