I'm at my Dad's in Colorado, 1000 miles from home. I got here, smooth running truck. Drove it around quite a bit, running perfectly. Went out this morning and no start. It cranks fine and fast. Battery voltage is good. Fuel pressure is good (I have a gauge). I have AutoEnginuity and this is what it is telling me.

First. P0603 KAM Error. It seems like I've had this for a while, tried to diagnose it and haven't been able to. It's not running like it's losing KAM memory, that I can tell. It seems like if I was losing KAM memory I'd also be getting a P1000. KAM fuse is good, etc. The only other codes are some 4WD codes that I don't think are relevant.

FICM Vehicle Power and Logic power about 12V. FICM Main Power 47.5 to 48 volts at all times, even when cranking.

ICP and ICP Desired ~1200 PSI. ICPR 48%. ICP Volts 1.61.

Here are the two that concern me.

"CMP & CKP are in sync = NO"
"FICM Info for Sync = NO"

Now I seem to remember seeing the truck run with these values at NO. But I'm not sure. Logic tells me that this is clearly either a failed CMP or CKP sensor. But there seems to be a lot of confusion (in my mind) about these two PIDS from AE.

I believe the first is the PCM sync, and the second is the repeated sync to the FICM.

So I need ideas of what to look at. I need to find the CMP and CKP sensors and help on how to test them. I haven't tried searching, so I might work on that. But sometimes it's easier to just ask and I'm not very good at searching.

I have most of my tools and Dad's tools available, etc.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

P.S. If anyone has the CMP and CKP part numbers, I'd appreciate it. I'm not going to go out and buy them yet. But I'd like to get pricing and availability information while I wait.

Thanks,

 

Bump/subscribing

 

I'm getting a P2614 now, which is "Camshaft Position Output Circuit / Open". And the "Camshaft Position Sensor Failure" PID goes to "Fault" when it cranks, and back to "No Fault" when I stop, so I'm feeling pretty confident that it is the sensor. I hope it's not the wiring. The wiring that I can see looks OK.

I'm trying to figure out how to get that sucker out. It's pretty far up there.

 

Blankety blank blank thing just started. Which means when I was wiggling the wires to see if the "Camshaft Position Sensor Failure" PID would change (what it says to do in the service manual), it apparently made a connection or fixed a short. Which means it IS in the wire.

Dang it.

 

well, it would seem it's in the loom, but just right where you were doing
wiggling.... did you fiddle in one place, or have you been all over the map?

i'd be looking at where the wires enter the connector, but that's just me.

what codes are you showing now? time to start making notes.....

 

I was just moving the wires right at the connector, so that's where the problem probably lies. I cleared the codes and none have returned, but I did not start it more than a few times.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a part number and replacement procedures for that pigtail. I just don't seem to be able to find them.

 

well, at least you know where to jiggle first if it returns before you
get home... my thought is i'd see if it's spade connections or whatever
that is making the actual connection, and see if you can get something
at a good electronics store to make the connection and some hook up
wire, and make yourself up some jumpers so that if you get stuck,
you can rig something up to get home... i'd have some terminals crimped
onto 1' pigtail, and if i had to strip back the insulation a bit and wrap the
pigtails on and tape them, it'd be a pretty quick fix.

be happy it isn't a van. most of the main wiring loom you can't even SEE,
let alone get near enough to work on.

when my van got rebuilt, i had a ton of error codes all over the place...
after a day of swearing, the problem turned out to be the nut holding
the battery cable onto the post on the starter was missing... the
cable from the batteries aft was making a good enough connection to spin
stuff, but the other cable, every time you hit a bump, you'd get all sorts
of error messages.

if you've got a voltmeter with minimum and maximium capture, i'd hook
it into something that is on all the time, like the cigarrette lighter, and see
if your voltages stay nice and stable.... my loose wire was giving me
voltages between 10.8 and 3.5 volts at the main fuse block.

good luck....

 

The Cam wire (as well as the crank wire) are shielded wires. The only solution, or at the correct way, is to install a new harness. I just had a truck with a bad wire there the other day. You could wiggle it while it was ideling and it would die. New harness was something like $750! Anyways you might could get away with splicing in a wire from an old harness, but as far as I know ford doesn't even sell the pigtail for those two sensors.

 

It appears, as best as I can see from looking up under there, that two wires come out of the shielding for about 3 inches before going into the plug. The parts guy at the Ford dealership in Delta found a connector part #WPT359 (3U2Z-14S411-JCA) that appears to look like the connector in my service manual diagram and the connector on the end of the sensor. He is going to get one in Monday and see if it will plug into the connector. I don't know if that is a good idea or not, but it might be worth a try.

My question is where does that wiring loom go? It looks from the bottom like it goes up, but I can't see very far. I'm going to take the air filter out tomorrow when it's cooler and see if I can see that wire and if I can pull it up where I can work on it.

 

It goes up to the main wire harness, by the AIT II sensor, runing along the front of the heads, behind the belt and fuel lines. Taking the Air cleaner assyembly out, you should be able to fish it up to the top of the motor. I will be interested in seeing if the pigtail your getting will work.

 

I'll see what he comes up with on Monday. I'm a little afraid to try to solder on a new plug. I am good at solder splices, I've been doing that for a long, long time. But it's very possible I could screw the whole thing up and really be up a creek. Also, the plug appears to be correct dimensionally in the pictures, but I don't know if it will be the same material, etc. I will be concerned about it holding up, as it doesn't' appear to be the best environment down there where the sensor is mounted.

 

if you have braid shielding, it's mostly to prevent induction with other
wires in parallel. so a smidge of exposed wire at the end where it pops out
of the loom isn't a huge deal... mostly, the shield on any control wire is
grounded at the end opposite the sensor, so the end you are working on
should most likely not be grounded. if it's grounded on both ends, it
isn't a shield any more, and becomes another conductor.

my opinion is based on shielded control wires in general, not your
specific wire in particular... but if i was in your spot, i'd be ok with
switching the plug end, soldering the conductors, taping them with
scotch 33+ electrical tape, making sure that ground braid end wasn't
touching anything grounded, so i didn't lose my shield, and drive it.

 

david if you cant find one please let me know. Ill dig threw the pile at the shop.

 

Dave Im not much help here as You are the Wire Harness GURU

I didnt see a Part # for a CMP Pigtail In the List I have recieved from Mark

Just one for the CMP Sensor itself

Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) 04-10 E series 8C3Z-12K073-A 1835985C92 PU88
Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) F series Same as above
Camshaft o-rings 3c3z-9229-b ??


And just to throw it out there Could the Pigtail just be corroaded or dirty where it plugs in to the sensor???