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Factory subwoofer upgrade?

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  #91  
Old 02-26-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RobFlag View Post
It wasn't pretty, but it did work. After taking a closer look at the factory Sub Amp, I doubt that just replacing the driver would make much difference. It's fed by 18 gauge wire so can't be pushing many watts. Pretty much have to pull the seat to do the driver so might as well do the amp at the same time.
Where did you tap in to run the 6g wire to the amp?Would the 8 inch shallow mount fit into the factory box?Did you mount the amp you got or is it on the floor?
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  #92  
Old 03-10-2013, 07:24 PM
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I finally got around to doing my install today. I'm 90% finished put hit a dead end and ran out of time.

I installed a JLAudio JX250 amp and the JLAudio 8" mini enclosed sub box the 108 3vw3 I think. The install went pretty smooth, I ran 8ga wire and used the high pass inputs from the rear speakers. The sub box fit behind the seat is REALLY tight, but it does go. The dead end I hit was running a remote power lead, I don't have any output from the stock deck and I don't want to remove it, so I'm looking for a switched 12V source from the ignition.

Where can I find a switched 12V source?
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  #93  
Old 03-10-2013, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by B&LLandscaping View Post
I finally got around to doing my install today. I'm 90% finished put hit a dead end and ran out of time.

I installed a JLAudio JX250 amp and the JLAudio 8" mini enclosed sub box the 108 3vw3 I think. The install went pretty smooth, I ran 8ga wire and used the high pass inputs from the rear speakers. The sub box fit behind the seat is REALLY tight, but it does go. The dead end I hit was running a remote power lead, I don't have any output from the stock deck and I don't want to remove it, so I'm looking for a switched 12V source from the ignition.

Where can I find a switched 12V source?
Just about anything on the pass. side fuse panel is switched, grab an add-a-fuse and you're set.
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  #94  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:23 AM
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Just about anything on the pass. side fuse panel is switched, grab an add-a-fuse and you're set.
Typical, I ran the wire up to the driver's side lol.

Thanks for the info, hopefully I'll get it all buttoned up next weekend.
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  #95  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:00 AM
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Anybody know if two or one or none of these will fit behind the seat of a 2011 F-350 super crew? (No powered sliding window)
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  #96  
Old 03-19-2013, 02:09 PM
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I have a 12 inch kicker same style behind mine...very tight but got it in and seat closed..mine is a crew cab.I dont think theres a diff anyways
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  #97  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:33 PM
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Finally got it wired up and tried it out last night. I am VERY happy with the results.

The install isn't up to show truck standards by any means, but I'm plenty happy with it. It was actually pretty straightforward and surprisingly easy to do, there wasn't a lot of "collateral damage" involved in placing things and running the wires.

I've got the Infinity speakers (thanks to Darren32) and the JLAudio amp/sub setup. I'm not an audiophile, but the sound quality is pretty amazing. The Infinity speakers are great, lots of depth and clear, and all the reviews were right on, that little 8" JL sub box is incredible.

Thanks to everyone here for the help.
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  #98  
Old 06-12-2013, 10:30 PM
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Alternative to Switched 12VDC for Subs

I was frustrated that the factory sub wiring "ON" signal wouldn't turn my aftermarket sub on. Did a little checking and found it's only about 6.6 VDC so that explained it. Found a little 5 vdc reed relay at Radio Shack for $5 and used it to switch from the 12VDC terminal on the amp to the remote "ON" on the amp. Works great and saved me from running a new wire up to the dash for a switched 12VDC line. Here is the relay:

Compact 5VDC/1A SPST Reed Relay : Reed Relays | RadioShack.com
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  #99  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobFlag View Post
I was frustrated that the factory sub wiring "ON" signal wouldn't turn my aftermarket sub on. Did a little checking and found it's only about 6.6 VDC so that explained it. Found a little 5 vdc reed relay at Radio Shack for $5 and used it to switch from the 12VDC terminal on the amp to the remote "ON" on the amp. Works great and saved me from running a new wire up to the dash for a switched 12VDC line. Here is the relay:

Compact 5VDC/1A SPST Reed Relay : Reed Relays | RadioShack.com
how does this work exactly?
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  #100  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:38 PM
Jamaicanbred264 Jamaicanbred264 is offline
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You can buy a shallow sub with box but you will need to buy an amp as well the stock head unit does not have the power so supply an after market sub. plus I have the stock sub and its a good sub if you at least changed the head unit. but if your not trying to do that then a sub and amp will do. here are a few that should work. shallow mount subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
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  #101  
Old 06-13-2013, 06:58 PM
RobFlag RobFlag is offline
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Hopefully a picture is worth a 1000 words. Important to note that you'll need to use a very low current draw relay. I tried several before finding the one below. The Remote Turn On command from the harness is about 6 VDC and 30 milliamps.
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  #102  
Old 06-06-2014, 10:50 AM
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Does anyone know the exact (or extremely close to exact) mounting depth of the factory Sub enclosure? I just purchased a 8" 4 ohm DVC Planet Audio subwoofer and have a mounting depth of 4".

I recently installed a Pioneer Nav unit in my truck (replacing the OEM Non-Nav Sync unit) and the sound is so incredibly better that I was blown away. I did the install myself and use the PAC MS-FRD1 interface, along with the SV200 Sirius adapter and AXXESS SWC adapter. Everything installed great and the PAC adapter gave me RCA connections for my factory sub included in the harness. The OEM Sub hits MUCH MUCH MUCH harder and deeper than I could of imagined. The OEM HU is clearly what's holding it back.

Doing the math, it appears the factory amp puts out around 120ish watts RMS at 2 ohms per voice coil (4 Ohm output total). I would bet this is plenty for an aftermarket sub-woofer, assuming you aren't trying to compete with it and you aren't buying a sub that requires 500watts to run.

I have a 8 year old Alpine MRP-T220 Amplifier I could run if need-be, however, it would be around 140 watts bridged at 2ohms and this isn't much better than the factory amp. I'm sure it would be quite a bit louder though. But I'm really interested in seeing what the OEM amp can do now that I've taken the chains off of it by adding a aftermarket high end HU.

I really would like to know the interior depth though, so I can determine if I need a spacer or not.

If someone who has their factory sub removed could measure the interior depth from the inside lip to the back of the OEM enclosure, I would really appreciate it.

I'm guessing it's around 4.25" but might be wrong.
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  #103  
Old 06-06-2014, 12:08 PM
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Anyone know what harness to use to be able to keep the factory sub when installin a aftermarket radio and the steering wheel controls ? That way I can just upgrade the stock system cuz a whole new one is a lot lol
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  #104  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptorgabe View Post
Anyone know what harness to use to be able to keep the factory sub when installin a aftermarket radio and the steering wheel controls ? That way I can just upgrade the stock system cuz a whole new one is a lot lol
I used the PAC MS-FRD1 for the radio/sub interface. It also lets you retain full access to Sync. It allows for full use of you factory subwoofer, including independent subwoofer control if you head unit allows.

I used the Axxess SWC adapter to retain full steering wheel control

And the Sirius SV200 adapter to retain sat.


Wait.....I just realized I already said all of this in my last post..wow didn't even need the search function.
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