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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-2015 Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

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  #61  
Old 01-22-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Nederfield View Post
I did the same upgrade last month.
The connector has audio, A+,ground. The switch power to turn the amp on is only 5 volts so it did not work to turn the amp on. I had to run a switched 12 power line back. I just tapped off of the radio fuse and ran the wire back.
It was a great install. I noticed a huge difference. I had also upgraded the 4 door speakers earlier.
I'm totally audio ignorant, so do you recall what colors were what wires when you did this?
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  #62  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:54 AM
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I installed this amp and the remote turn on works. Kinda scares the crap out of you the first couple of times it turns on with a big THUMP coming from the back seat area.

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R500-1D Prime 500 Watt Mono D-class Amplifer: Car Electronics Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R500-1D Prime 500 Watt Mono D-class Amplifer: Car Electronics

Replaced the factory driver with this. Thought I had ordered the 8" but when the 10" arrived, I figured out a way to make it work in the stock box. Combination of this driver and amp rock pretty well for a cost effective system.

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Probably should have upgraded the power wiring to the amp, specs call for 4 gauge and I used the factory 16ish gauge.
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  #63  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:19 PM
Sean Nederfield Sean Nederfield is offline
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bryced15,

There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.

I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.

Sean
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  #64  
Old 01-24-2013, 09:45 PM
Sean Nederfield Sean Nederfield is offline
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Here is a link to the thread from 2000silverbullet with a PDF of the Ford factory schematic. It gives you all of the wiring and color codes.

I hope this link works.


http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/98...bwoofer-3.html
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  #65  
Old 01-25-2013, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Nederfield View Post
bryced15,

There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.

I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.

Sean
Thanks! That's just what I needed to know.
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  #66  
Old 01-25-2013, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobFlag View Post
Probably should have upgraded the power wiring to the amp, specs call for 4 gauge and I used the factory 16ish gauge.
I would seriously consider running new wires...
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  #67  
Old 01-25-2013, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobFlag View Post
Probably should have upgraded the power wiring to the amp, specs call for 4 gauge and I used the factory 16ish gauge.
That will lead to either the wiring failing due to overload or the amp failing prematurely due to inadequate power supply and it choking itself. I've seen wiring get overloaded so much it melts the jacket off and shorts the first piece of metal it meets. Your truck, your rules, but you are on borrowed time in my opinion.
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  #68  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavageNFS View Post
That will lead to either the wiring failing due to overload or the amp failing prematurely due to inadequate power supply and it choking itself. I've seen wiring get overloaded so much it melts the jacket off and shorts the first piece of metal it meets. Your truck, your rules, but you are on borrowed time in my opinion.
Ok good call. I'm going to run a 10 gauge power from the battery. That's what my amp calls for. Thanks for all the good advice.
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  #69  
Old 01-25-2013, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Nederfield View Post
There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.

I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
Thanks for the pinout info.
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  #70  
Old 01-25-2013, 01:54 PM
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Here's my upgrade plus all the door speakers! For as nice as these trucks are, Ford has THE WORST audio!!! It was the same way in my f-150.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #71  
Old 01-25-2013, 02:01 PM
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That looks great George!
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  #72  
Old 01-25-2013, 02:15 PM
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Thanks Andre!

It sounds even better!!!
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  #73  
Old 01-25-2013, 02:42 PM
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Joel Rusche Joel Rusche Joel Rusche
Awesome George. That's pretty much what mine looks like except I made two enclosures instead of one long one. The driver side box is an L shape for that window motor.
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  #74  
Old 01-25-2013, 03:03 PM
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Joel,

Mine was bought. There's a company that makes them for our trucks and I just took it in to the audio shop, they ordered it and did the complete install. I just don't have the time to be messin' with the stuff right now; and it's easier that way too!!
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  #75  
Old 01-25-2013, 03:55 PM
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Joel Rusche Joel Rusche Joel Rusche
Ya, I know what you mean. I kind of need a new head unit to replace my factory nav. I'm seriously considering having it done. I really don't want to tear into that dash.....
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:55 PM
 
 
 
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