I have a Kicker L5 10" sub (those square ones from like 5 years ago) and a 450rms rockford fosgate amp that I pulled from my old truck. Its just sitting in garage itching to be installed. From all my measuring and reading I don't think its possible
The dang thing is 6.25 in deep which is about 1" too deep for the supercrew sound custom box.
I'm contemplating trying to sell this sub for probably nothing and getting something that would work.
OR just installing 8" sub in stock ones place for <$100.
My only beef with the stock sub is the higher you turn the volume up the less output it seems to have.
2011 F-350 CCLB 4x4 6.7 50,000 miles
97 F-250 7.3 PSD 4x4, 5 speed, DP tuner, 4" exhaust, shimmed FPR, 6637, EBPV brake, Auto Meter guages, South Bend OFE, BDP stage 1's, HPX (leaked), 08 diff cover, CCV Mod (no more), Adrenaline HPOP, 380,000 miles
Completed my upgrade last night. I inadvertantly ordered the wrong sub (MB Quart Reference RLP254) which was a 10" driver. Was able to make it fit in the stock box (for now, seriously considering something more substantial) though generous use of a sabre saw and some MDF filler. Also used a Rockford Fosgate R500-1D amp. Little too large to fit in the stock location on the sub enclosure but packs quite a punch. Only challenge is the "Enable" wire going to the stock sub amp won't "enable" my new amp to turn on. Right now I've got it wired so it's on all the time but don't want that for long since it'll kill the batteries. Looks like I'll need to find a way to provide a switched 12VDC to turn on the amp. Anyone have a good idea where I can find one in the vicinity of the sub enclosure?
__________________ 2011 F350 4x4 Crew Cab 6.7l White Job1: Access Cover, Ford Bed Mat, B&W with Companion, Transfer Flow 50 gal tank, Carli Suspension with 2.5" kings, 7100 stabilizer, 325/60R20 Duratrac's on 20x9's, AMP Steps, Bushwacker flares, H&S Black Maxx with EGR/DOC/DPF/Urea delete, aFe S2, 3 - 8" SS KC's, LCQ-1 with 2 kW of Hertz Audio HSK components, Smittybilt M1 bumpers, Warn Zeon 12 winch, Front E-Locker, OEM rad #2, OEM turbo #2
Sub model is RLP204, $69 at sonicelctronix.com
Amp is PBR300X1, $159
Punch PEQ (small equalizer really works) $29
The polyfill tricks the sub into thinking there is more air space in the box than really exists..dont how it just does.
set up is really easy, I dont recall the wiring color match ups, do a search on the site there is somone that put together a good write up on the install of the amp using the stock wire harnes...the signal is taken from both rear speakers....
pair this up with the infinity speaker upgrades and the difference is great. BTW I used the blue trailer wire clips to splice in the back door tweeters to the leads into the rear infinity speakers, worked great, didnt have to llose the tweeters with the speaker upgrade. jusst clip them to the speaker lead right befor the connection to the speaker.
I'm going to be doing this same thing. Not sure on the wiring though. I noticed the factory sub harness has 5 wires in it. How did you wire up to the Rockford amp?
I did the same upgrade last month.
The connector has audio, A+,ground. The switch power to turn the amp on is only 5 volts so it did not work to turn the amp on. I had to run a switched 12 power line back. I just tapped off of the radio fuse and ran the wire back.
It was a great install. I noticed a huge difference. I had also upgraded the 4 door speakers earlier.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.