Hey there! I'm new to the forum. Picked up a really nice 1988 F-250 4x4, 5 speed with a 460. Really like the truck, but I hate all the extra smog crap in there. Not worried about emissions, what size belt do I run to bypass the air pump?

 

If it works, leave it alone. It uses a negligible amount of power.

If you remove the smog pump you'll need to remove the cat as well, since it will kill itself in short order without fresh air. Even if you remove the smog pump you still have the diverter valves and the air injection lines into the manifolds/head to deal with. Remove the diverter valves and you'll set a CEL. Remove the EGR and you'll also set a CEL.

 

I'm doing the same thing and would like to know what size belt to use also. or some tips for how to figure out the size of belt to order.

 

I understand why all the extra crap is there, and I don't like it. In my book simple is usually harder, complicated is easy. When I open my hood and see all the extra junk installed to deal with emissions/smog control, it annoys me. I don't care if it doesn't affect performance, it's more 'stuff' I have to keep running, more vacuum lines, more things to fail, and my engine doesn't look as pretty, and pretty is important.

Still waiting to hear if someone knows of a belt length. I've read about others taking a piece of string or some other such thing, running it through all the pulleys/belts, and getting a measurement that way. I'm thinking about just ordering one of the fake/replacement pulley setups off ebay instead. From what I've read, I don't think we'll get check engine lights on '88 trucks.

 

If you have a functioning CEL (as in it it lights up when you turn the key on), you will set a code if you remove the air injection solenoids and EGR valve.

A CEL light stuck on would annoy me a lot more than some junk under hood I hardly see. I've done emissions deletes on these trucks before, and the only proper way to do it is to physically disable all the equipment within the computer itself.

If you want to do all the work to remove the smog pump, the intake muffler, all the assorted hoses, the cat, the control solenoids, EGR valve, all the hard steel AIR tubes going to the manifolds, EGR tube, and then get the proper size pipe plugs to plug up the resulting holes in your exhaust manifolds - go right ahead. It's just a lot of effort just to make your engine look pretty.

 

I appreciate the feedback, don't interpret my ramblings as any indication of disrespect either!

How would one go about doing that (deleting equipment in the computer?)

 

You'd need to have a custom chip burned that deletes the emissions equipment, or get a tuner such a Moates QuarterHorse and do it yourself.

 

I have an 89 and a 97 with 460 5spds. The belt you need is: NAPA #060470. Air pump and all the sordid plumbing can be removed, and then you can cut off the bottom half of the alt bracket also. The vacuum accumulators on the inner fender can be removed. The 2 solenoids on the left side for the air pump can be unplumbed from vacuum. Leave the wiring to them, as they will continue to move as per computer signals. No codes set on either of my trucks. The egr valve has a position sensor and that's all the computer sees. Not it's function. Make an adapter plate out of aluminum that goes between the egr and the manifold, be sure and gasket it properly on both sides. Run the vacuum line from the manifold to the egr valve and it will continue to move also, just won't be putting exhaust gas into your intake. Along with synthetic oils and greases, an electric fan both my trucks will easily get 15 mpg empty at freeway speeds and that's with 4:10 gears. I use a Gale Banks complete header exhaust system on both. The 89 has well over 350,000 miles on it with no oil consumption. The only maintenance has been a couple of roller timing chains/sprockets at the hundred thousand mark (on it's 3rd set) With my goose neck trailer, pulling 16,000 pounds I get between 10 and 12mpg........ I'm a very happy 460 user!

 

Thanks a ton!

The clamp between the cat and pipes had a leak, went in to get it fixed and decided to just put on a new dual exhaust, 2.5" all the way back with dual muffler and got rid of the CAT, so now off to plug up the intake pipe. Have a great shop by me, $350 for everything back from the manifold.

 

Hey.

I'm about at the end of my rope here. I bet the answer's simple, but I can't figure it out.

I have an 88 f-250, eec-iv 460. Here's what I've done and what happened, in order:

Someone had removed the rear tank and hacked up the wiring. The truck wouldn't start. I cleaned up the wiring by the fuel pump and it ran well. I also, perhaps foolishly, ran the fuel pump with a jumper on the test port because the FP relay was bad. Didn't know much about EEC-IV when I started.

I removed all the smog stuff: air pump, AIR lines, carbon canister, extraneous vacuum lines. I left all the wires to all the sensors. I left the EGR in place and plumbed it to manifold vacuum. I replaced the exhaust pipes so there are no holes in them. The exhaust is an 8 into 2 into 1, terminating in a 3" straight pipe with a supertrapp (because I had one--it sounds great). I (think I) plugged the vacuum holes I created.

In addition, I replaced the distributor, set the base timing to 10 with the SPOUT jumper out. Replaced the wires and plugs.

Test fire, the truck ran badly. I plugged the hard line that runs back along the passenger frame rail (perhaps the carbon canister vacuum line?) and poof, she ran like a top for about 5 minutes. The she was so stumbly she wouldn't get out of the driveway. Wouldn't idle...had to keep a foot on the throttle all the time. It was an intermittent problem though. I ran her down to a friend's place about 3 miles away, and she was good, but then started stumbling again.

I checked the fuel pressure, 40 lb running. I replaced the MAP with one from an unknown V-8 ford and confirmed that the temp sensor and temp gauge sensors worked as they should. I replaced the thermostat. The temp gauge shows very low normal all the time before and after these changes.

The truck ran very well for about 30 miles. I shut it off for the day and in the afternoon, I noticed she sounded a bit rich and stumbly again, and by the time I got her home, 30 miles later, she barely ran. Again checked the fuel pressure, again 40 lb.

I checked the KOEO codes. They are (from http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-iv.shtml) 22 (Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Out Of Self Test Range), and then continous 32 (EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Below Closed Voltage (Others)) 87 (failure in fuel pump primary circuit) and 95 (infinite resistance to ground on FP secondary circuit).

I replaced the map sensor with a new one, eliminating the need for the jumper at the test plug. I'm guessing that why it threw the FP codes. I replaced the EVP sensor with a new one, and tested the old EVP by putting 12V to one pin and seeing if the rheostat rheo's. it does. I replaced the FP relay and confirmed that it works with a voltmeter. I see intermittent battery voltage on prime and then steady on after. I also tried running the truck with the two high amp wires jumpered. No change.

I unbolted the EGR and made a plate to seal it. No change. Just to be sure I ran the truck with my finger in the hole. Good vacuum, no change.

The truck runs, sort of, but you need to keep the throttle open and it runs lumpy. Either sounds like a horrible vacuum leak or two bad cylinders.

I cannot bloody figure this out.

Tomorrow I will check vacuum, do a compression test, and clear and recheck the codes.

Any guesses anyone?

Failing that, will my '69 429 block fit the bellhousing that carries the ZF trans?

Thanks,

JRF

 

Fuel pressure should be ~32-34 PSI at idle while running, not 40.

 

Hmm. ok. I checked the pressure reg, no fuel in the line. My pressure tester leaks fuel from the schreader valve and I admit I kinda glanced at it to make sure it wasn't 10 or lower...I'll double check in the am. Would high fuel pressure cause the problem?

Guesses at this point:
When I took the smog stuff off I missed a vacuum line somewhere. But it seems that it never would have run right. I think I read about someone needing plugs in the heads for something but I can't find any holes. Same thought as above though--seems it never would have been right.

Somehow I did something such that one or more of the cylinders now doesn't fire. Compression test should determine that. Wish me luck I didn't trash my motor. Anyone heard of such a thing?

There are two sensors on the driver side of the motor next to the coil that i've read can be unplumbed from vacuum but need to be kept wired. Maybe some sensor is sending the computer bad info.

Maybe the ECM is bad. not sure why it would say a new MAP is out of range.


Anyway, thanks, folks.