Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
#1
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
Hello All,
I'm rebuiling a 78 F250 and having the 460 rebuilt in it right now. I'm looking to upgrade the manifold to the edelbrock's performer series but I dont know if I should get the Performer or Performer RPM.
I'm having some minor improvements done elsewhere in the engine such as an upgraded cam, new pistons that will give me a higher compression ratio but I would like to leave the current D3VE heads as is. Also, I am using my existing edelbrock 750 cfm carburetor.
I'm really new to this stuff so any help would be appreciated.
Joe
I'm rebuiling a 78 F250 and having the 460 rebuilt in it right now. I'm looking to upgrade the manifold to the edelbrock's performer series but I dont know if I should get the Performer or Performer RPM.
I'm having some minor improvements done elsewhere in the engine such as an upgraded cam, new pistons that will give me a higher compression ratio but I would like to leave the current D3VE heads as is. Also, I am using my existing edelbrock 750 cfm carburetor.
I'm really new to this stuff so any help would be appreciated.
Joe
#2
My preference is for the RPM. The performer is at best a alum version of the stock intake.
I actually perfer the weiand stealth better yet.
But some will chime in and claim that the rpm and stealth hurt low end. I have never had that issue but I guess on a dyno you MIGHT see a couple ft/lbs of loss below 2000 rpm but personally I don't run my gas engines that low much anyway.
biggest thing is make sure your cam and intake rpm ranges match.
I actually perfer the weiand stealth better yet.
But some will chime in and claim that the rpm and stealth hurt low end. I have never had that issue but I guess on a dyno you MIGHT see a couple ft/lbs of loss below 2000 rpm but personally I don't run my gas engines that low much anyway.
biggest thing is make sure your cam and intake rpm ranges match.
#3
My preference is for the RPM. The performer is at best a alum version of the stock intake.
I actually perfer the weiand stealth better yet.
But some will chime in and claim that the rpm and stealth hurt low end. I have never had that issue but I guess on a dyno you MIGHT see a couple ft/lbs of loss below 2000 rpm but personally I don't run my gas engines that low much anyway.
biggest thing is make sure your cam and intake rpm ranges match.
I actually perfer the weiand stealth better yet.
But some will chime in and claim that the rpm and stealth hurt low end. I have never had that issue but I guess on a dyno you MIGHT see a couple ft/lbs of loss below 2000 rpm but personally I don't run my gas engines that low much anyway.
biggest thing is make sure your cam and intake rpm ranges match.
Thanks monsterbaby! I think I saw them use the Weiand in a 460 rebuild on power block tv. I'll look more closely at the weiand.
Do you need any sort of porting job on the d3ve heads for either the RPM or stealth?
Last edited by jtindale; 05-03-2012 at 10:11 AM. Reason: typo
#4
Not on the intake side other then if you really want to clean them up a little with any casting flash or in the bowl under the valve but not neccesary.
Any of the BBF heads could stand some work on the exhaust side, but not in a mild engine. even that's a personal choice if you want to take the time.
Any of the BBF heads could stand some work on the exhaust side, but not in a mild engine. even that's a personal choice if you want to take the time.
#5
Not on the intake side other then if you really want to clean them up a little with any casting flash or in the bowl under the valve but not neccesary.
Any of the BBF heads could stand some work on the exhaust side, but not in a mild engine. even that's a personal choice if you want to take the time.
Any of the BBF heads could stand some work on the exhaust side, but not in a mild engine. even that's a personal choice if you want to take the time.
Thanks again monsterbaby!
#6
#7
I run the Weiand Stealth on my 460 and have no complaints. Like stated above, I'm not sure how they compare side-by-side on a dyno comparison but I have NO problems on the low end
I've also heard that the Air Gap is a much better manifold then the standard performer intake.
I've also heard that the Air Gap is a much better manifold then the standard performer intake.
Thanks 82f100460!
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#8
If you are doing minor upgrades I would say the Weiand as well if you are looking to port your heads go to re-incarnation auto website and get the subscription for approx $30 and it will have detailed info and pics on how to do it, or you can by a set of heads good for 500HP already done for $1125 and get yourself a recurved dizzy at the same time.
I had the performer on mine before I rebuilt it with the eddie 750 and headers had 212RWHP with 308 ft/lb torque, I would say that is about 330 to 340 RWHP.
D
I had the performer on mine before I rebuilt it with the eddie 750 and headers had 212RWHP with 308 ft/lb torque, I would say that is about 330 to 340 RWHP.
D
#9
If you are doing minor upgrades I would say the Weiand as well if you are looking to port your heads go to re-incarnation auto website and get the subscription for approx $30 and it will have detailed info and pics on how to do it, or you can by a set of heads good for 500HP already done for $1125 and get yourself a recurved dizzy at the same time.
I had the performer on mine before I rebuilt it with the eddie 750 and headers had 212RWHP with 308 ft/lb torque, I would say that is about 330 to 340 RWHP.
D
I had the performer on mine before I rebuilt it with the eddie 750 and headers had 212RWHP with 308 ft/lb torque, I would say that is about 330 to 340 RWHP.
D
#10
#11
Another Stealth user here.With "554 "574 lift cam,stock converter,3:50 gears,32" tires = I still have to feather the gas to keep from spinning the tires from a stop.I think loss of low end torque is a relative term with a 460 CI engine.+1 on porting the heads.Great performance return for some labor and minimal cash (cartridge rolls,carbide burrs).
#12
#13
I always do porting first. Have your machinest hot tank and crack check them and disassemble obviously. Then take them home do whatever porting you want, then after your done take them back for valve job, surfacing and reasembly.
That way if you hit a seat accidently (harder to not hit then to hit them) or the sealing surface, when he does the resurface and valve job it fixes it. or god forbide you actually get to agressive and punch through to water (your really removing a lot more material then you need if you do though so don't be scared just don't be stupid either) your not out the labor of the machine work on that head when you replace it.
That way if you hit a seat accidently (harder to not hit then to hit them) or the sealing surface, when he does the resurface and valve job it fixes it. or god forbide you actually get to agressive and punch through to water (your really removing a lot more material then you need if you do though so don't be scared just don't be stupid either) your not out the labor of the machine work on that head when you replace it.
#14
I always do porting first. Have your machinest hot tank and crack check them and disassemble obviously. Then take them home do whatever porting you want, then after your done take them back for valve job, surfacing and reasembly.
That way if you hit a seat accidently (harder to not hit then to hit them) or the sealing surface, when he does the resurface and valve job it fixes it. or god forbide you actually get to agressive and punch through to water (your really removing a lot more material then you need if you do though so don't be scared just don't be stupid either) your not out the labor of the machine work on that head when you replace it.
That way if you hit a seat accidently (harder to not hit then to hit them) or the sealing surface, when he does the resurface and valve job it fixes it. or god forbide you actually get to agressive and punch through to water (your really removing a lot more material then you need if you do though so don't be scared just don't be stupid either) your not out the labor of the machine work on that head when you replace it.
#15
Hello All,
I'm rebuiling a 78 F250 and having the 460 rebuilt in it right now. I'm looking to upgrade the manifold to the edelbrock's performer series but I dont know if I should get the Performer or Performer RPM.
I'm having some minor improvements done elsewhere in the engine such as an upgraded cam, new pistons that will give me a higher compression ratio but I would like to leave the current D3VE heads as is. Also, I am using my existing edelbrock 750 cfm carburetor.
I'm really new to this stuff so any help would be appreciated.
Joe
I'm rebuiling a 78 F250 and having the 460 rebuilt in it right now. I'm looking to upgrade the manifold to the edelbrock's performer series but I dont know if I should get the Performer or Performer RPM.
I'm having some minor improvements done elsewhere in the engine such as an upgraded cam, new pistons that will give me a higher compression ratio but I would like to leave the current D3VE heads as is. Also, I am using my existing edelbrock 750 cfm carburetor.
I'm really new to this stuff so any help would be appreciated.
Joe
I'm in the same boat you are (minus the 78 F250) and I have done some research. Unless you are using aftermaket heads (edlelbrock, ford racing, trick flow etc..) you are wasting your money on the Performer RPM or Air gap. Unless you plan on an upgrade later I would stick with the performer or stealth. You are not going to be getting high enough RPMs to match what the RPM manifold can accomplish. My 2cents.