I have a 92 F-150 with a 5.8. I am interested in removing the air pump and related plumbing. The reason is that I recently completed the 3G alternator swap, and now I have an annoying belt squeal at start-up. After posting about it on here, apparently it is "normal" to have the belt squeal. I can't stand it, and am looking for a correction to this problem.

A couple of fixes come to mind: Install a larger pulley on the alternator to reduce the start effort, and increase the belt contact area. Another is to "wrap" the belt around the current pulley further. In looking at the belt routing, elimination of the air pump would allow the belt to wrap around the alternator pulley further and hopefully eliminate the squeal.

A side benefit is that this would eliminate the parasitic drag from the air pump, and allow the removal of a considerable amount of plumbing on the RH side of the engine. I understand from reading here that the pump only works on start-up, so it shouldn't impact my sniffer test.

Questions:

1) Will this cause any CEL codes?
2) Is the removal as straightforward as it appears?
3) What, if anything, needs to be left intact?
4) Is plugging the remaining ports difficult?
5) Am I correct about the system functioning only on start-up?
6) Will the truck pass sniffer testing after removal?

Thanks,

JD

 

I removed my smog pump. It just unbolts and the plumping comes right out. The smog holes in the head are easy to fill up, if I remember correctly, they just take a basic 5/8" bolt I can't remember the thread count. I don't have any codes after removal.

However, the crossover pipes b/t the heads connects the smog pump, and EGR together. So really to remove the smog pump, you would also have to remove the EGR.

 

The A.I.R. pump takes less than one (<1) horsepower to run, and it's there for a reason (especially if you live a 'smog' area). You're better off getting the slight larger pulley for the alternator.

 

Like I said, eliminating the drag is only a side-benefit. Primarily, I'm looking to better wrap the alt pulley, and eliminate the VERY annoying start-up squeal. It would be easier for me to get a larger alt pulley; do you have an application in mind that you could recommend? If so, I'll hit the salvage this Saturday, find one, and do the swap.

My only concern vis-a-vis emissions impact is that I can get it by the smog ***** once a year. I'd read elsewhere that the pump only contributes on start-up. If so, then it should let me pass the pipe sniffer. In five more years, I can register the truck as a "Classic Vehicle" here in Texas, and then I don't have to worry about emissions testing anymore. At that point, the cats will be laying on my shop floor, and a proper set of duals will go on. All the smog plumbing will be gone too, making it so much easier to work on under the hood.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

JD

 

Thanks for the info. I'm fine with pulling the EGR also; I just don't want to trigger the CEL. I don't mind leaving it in place, but just need to disable it so I don't get leakage. Is there a work-around for the CEL if I go this route?

Thanks,

JD

 

If they do a visual as well as the sniffer you'll fail every time without all the smog components in place. Look on a t-bird or lincoln town car. Use a set of calipers and measure what you have now, and then go find one a little larger.

 

No visual inspection here; just the sniffer. Can't imagine a quickie-lube tech would possibly know what to look for on a 20 year old truck anyway. Never could understand why the government would care what components are under your hood, as long as it meets their emissions quota. Oh well, they always think they know what's best for everyone, I guess.

I was hoping someone on here would have a specific application recommendation for a larger pulley. Kinda hate to go wandering around the salvage on a random search, but will have to do that if no one has prior experience to share.

Cheers!

JD

 

I did have a thought after I posted last. Check on diesel. They run lower RPMS and as such would need a larger pulley to keep the charge up.

 

Get the bigger pullie dont start elminating and gettin rid of the egr will def cause a cell their is no bypass unless you can trip the pcm to seeing an egr resistance some how

 

The last I was told changing to an 8 grove set of pulleys for your motor would cure the noise. I get the same squeal on start up ... only if I have my foot on the "GO" pedal and if you start it WITH the A/C on ... OH yes my belt was installed when the alt. was installed in March. ... Good luck !!! Dave

 

Thanks Dave - I'd love to go with an 8-groove pulley set up, but it sounds like a lot of work to chase down donor pulleys for every accessory on the front of the engine. Do 8-groove replacements even exist in the correct diameter and back-spacing? If so, It'd be nice if there were an applications listing for each. I'm thinking salvage yard swap here, not some expensive aftermarket aluminum set. I guess I could measure all of mine, and then start piece-mealing them together on future salvage yard trips. But, I'm looking for something a little more near-term!

My squeal happens on every start-up, regardless of method. It is only a brief, 1-second squeal, but I find it very objectionable. The belt is pretty new < 2 months old. I guess I could go with a shorter belt, and push the travel limit on the tensioner, but I don't want to overload all of the accessory bearings.

This brings me back to dumping the air pump and getting a little more contact area on the alternator pulley. I guess I could just bypass it with a shorter belt 99.9% of the year, then swap it back just long enough to go in for my inspection. I just hate leaving parts dangling under the hood that aren't doing anything.

Cheers,

JD

 

Why don't you just get a belt 1 size smaller...

 

I had a 1020k6 belt before had to use a 1010k6 belt after

 

Well, the indicator on the tensioner is right in the center of the range, so I hate to go any tighter and increase the side-load on the belt-driven accessories. I don't want to knock the bearings out of everything. I suppose I could go to the upper end of the range, and not hurt anything too bad.

Thanks!

JD

 

if it were mine and I couldn't tolorate the noise ... I MIGHT just LIGHTLY bead blast the grooved part of any of the pulleys that have grooves then give it a try. I would use an "old belt" first. be careful of the slanted edges ...not to hit them. Removing the pulleys would be a P.I.T.A. but if it stops the squeeeeaal It would be worth the effort. Dave