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  #1  
Old 05-01-2012, 06:52 PM
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U-Joint Replacement

I bought a new universal joint from Mac's for my '50 F-1 but it doesn't fit. The original part, pictured below, is dished out so that there's enough clearance between the universal and the plug (grease cup) on the inside of the knuckle on the left in the photo. The replacement is too thick to clear the plug. I also checked with the local NAPA store and a drive shaft rebuilding business in town and they didn't have anything that fits any better. I've thought about removing the plug and replacing it with a flat disc to gain more room. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do about it?

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2012, 07:45 PM
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I'm sure that that you have tried to drive it in, but have you taken it out.

If you can get it out just grind it down till it will fit flush.

Neal
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ct50f1 View Post
I bought a new universal joint from Mac's for my '50 F-1 but it doesn't fit. The original part, pictured below, is dished out so that there's enough clearance between the universal and the plug (grease cup) on the inside of the knuckle on the left in the photo. The replacement is too thick to clear the plug. I also checked with the local NAPA store and a drive shaft rebuilding business in town and they didn't have anything that fits any better. I've thought about removing the plug and replacing it with a flat disc to gain more room. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do about it?

Click the image to open in full size.
The drive shaft company you took it to should be able to solve your problem, If not try another shop. They are supposed to be expert's. We have at least a dozen shop's here, and every one of them would be able to help you. I really can't understand in this day and age people will just sluff you off. When job's are tight and everyone complain's, these shop's should sometime's just suck it up and deal with it! Help the average Joe and the average Joe will help you. My 2c worth, and it feel's good. We have the same problem up here.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:52 PM
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You need to find someone who carries a different brand. I'm suspecting the places you tried all have the same brand/model? What brand was that? Spicer would seem likely to fit.

I need to check mine, I don't remember it having that cup at all. Maybe that's why there is a stripe of oil on the bottom of the cab!?
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:36 PM
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C3AZ-4635-E (replaced C3AZ-4635-C, B7AZ-4635-A, B7A-7039-A, 21C-7039) .. U-Joint / Front/Rear applications: 1948/52 F1, 1953/56 F100, and...

This is the same 'Spicer type' as the front u-joint used on: 1965/73 289/302 Mustang / 1970/77 Maverick/Comet and a gazillion other 1942/80's FoMoCo vehicles.

So, there's no need to buy u-joints in Lockport NY (Mac's) and pay shipping charges, when you can buy them at local autoparts stores. Just take the original along to match it up.

Note: Ford changed the u-joints basic part number from 7039 to 4635 sometime after 1956.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARDNEAL View Post
I'm sure that that you have tried to drive it in, but have you taken it out.

If you can get it out just grind it down till it will fit flush.

Neal
I agree. Taking it out and grinding it down is probably the way to go. Another suggestion has been to see if there's a freeze plug the right size that could be used as a replacement. I'm still curious if I'm the only one who's run into this problem.
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  #7  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamagrant View Post
The drive shaft company you took it to should be able to solve your problem, If not try another shop. They are supposed to be expert's. We have at least a dozen shop's here, and every one of them would be able to help you. I really can't understand in this day and age people will just sluff you off. When job's are tight and everyone complain's, these shop's should sometime's just suck it up and deal with it! Help the average Joe and the average Joe will help you. My 2c worth, and it feel's good. We have the same problem up here.
You're right that a lot of business don't make any effort to help you out. However, the guy I talked to was very helpful. He checked all of his sources but wasn't able to locate a universal that could be used without removing the plug that's in the way. He offered to help me modify the parts so they would fit. I decided to ask on FTE first to see if there was an easier solution but so I haven't heard of one.
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  #8  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
C3AZ-4635-E (replaced C3AZ-4635-C, B7AZ-4635-A, B7A-7039-A, 21C-7039) .. U-Joint / Front/Rear applications: 1948/52 F1, 1953/56 F100, and...

This is the same 'Spicer type' as the front u-joint used on: 1965/73 289/302 Mustang / 1970/77 Maverick/Comet and a gazillion other 1942/80's FoMoCo vehicles.

So, there's no need to buy u-joints in Lockport NY (Mac's) and pay shipping charges, when you can buy them at local autoparts stores. Just take the original along to match it up.

Note: Ford changed the u-joints basic part number from 7039 to 4635 sometime after 1956.
I now know that it was dumb to order the universals from Mac's but I was ordering some other stuff and thought it would be easier to just add then to the order. I took both original parts with me the other day to compare to what was available locally. Both NAPA had the drive shaft shop had replacement parts (Ross - I don't recall the brand) that were listed as the same 4635 however, none of them had enough clearance.
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  #9  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ct50f1 View Post
I now know that it was dumb to order the universals from Mac's but I was ordering some other stuff and thought it would be easier to just add then to the order. I took both original parts with me the other day to compare to what was available locally. Both NAPA had the drive shaft shop had replacement parts (Ross - I don't recall the brand) that were listed as the same 4635 however, none of them had enough clearance.
My 1948/56 Ford Truck Parts Catalog (final printing 1964) lists B7AZ-4635-A for both front/rear. All 4 cups are #1270 size.

My 1975 Ford O-S-I (Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange) catalog shows that B7AZ-4635-A was replaced in 1963 by C3AZ-4635-E. All 4 of these cups are #1310 size.

But FoMoCo sez this u-joint will work on 1948/52 F1's and 1953/56 F100's. If you want what is listed in the 1948/56 catalog:

B7AZ-4635-A =

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has THREE = 800-476-9653.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has FOUR = 817-275-2381.
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  #10  
Old 05-11-2012, 04:54 PM
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I found a solution that might work for others if they have the same problem. I popped out the plug at the end of the knuckle and replaced it with a 1 5/16 " freeze plug that I got from NAPA.

Click the image to open in full size.

This gives quite a bit more clearance for the replacement universal joint.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:02 PM
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Good job! Can you tell from the wear marks if the yoke ever gets on the tailshaft far enough to pop that plug out? I wouldn't think so.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:41 PM
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As they say when theres a will theres a way . Feels good when you figure a problem out doesn't it . As for the good help is hard to find thing it seems universal .
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Good job! Can you tell from the wear marks if the yoke ever gets on the tailshaft far enough to pop that plug out? I wouldn't think so.
I can't really tell although I don't think it goes far enough to pot the plug out. I've been thinking about trying to put some epoxy down at the end to hold it in. The guy at NAPA suggested that I tack it lightly with a welder.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:19 PM
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I went to replace my front joint today and got it in about 1/4 of the way before I saw the same problem -- DUH!! It isn't just that the center of the U-joint is thicker, the big difference is the length of the axles the cup go on. Ford essentially shortened them and moved them outboard. I was going to try to put new cups on the old axles but they aren't at all the same.

So I'm off to NAPA for a freeze plug!

Edit: I got plenty of clearance by beating on the stock cup with a ball pein hammer.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Good job! Can you tell from the wear marks if the yoke ever gets on the tailshaft far enough to pop that plug out? I wouldn't think so.
Ross, sorry to hear you're running into the same problem I had. In re-reading the thread I noticed your earlier question about how far in the yoke goes on the shaft. When I reassembled the drivetrain last week I was surprised to see that it didn't go on very far at all. I'm assuming that when I get more weight on the frame the rear springs will compress and the drive shaft will move forward reducing the gap between the yoke and the tail end of the transmission. Right now it looks like I missing a part or something isn't set up correctly.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:37 PM
 
 
 
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