anti never seize thread sealant thread locker gaskets
#1
anti never seize thread sealant thread locker gaskets
Here's my dilemma. I got the 5.8 351 Windsor from my 1996 f250 torn down. Had to do it because of just how rusty everything was but it was a tight motor. Now its been completely media blasted and painted and im ready to re-gasket and reassemble the entire block. Ive got several questions. Ill be using never seize on most of the random bolts and what not but but will it work for sensors and fittings like coolant temp, oil pressure sensor and so on (will it seal of should i use a loc-tite thread sealer and if so what color/kind should i use) and also what gaskets require that gasket maker sealant and if so what kind (one peice rubber oil pan gasket). Will regular petroleum jelly work for the fuel injector o-rings. Any advice would be much appreciated . thanks
#2
Oil, fuel and coolant sensors should have a sealant on them. I always use teflon tape rated for oil.
As far as sealant on any of the gaskets, it is NOT necessary. BUt you will need a dabs of RTV in the corner of the pan gasket(where the gasket meet the front and rear main) and for the intake I throw the little rubber pieces away they give you for the front and back of the intake, and I use a 1/4" bead of RTV
As far as sealant on any of the gaskets, it is NOT necessary. BUt you will need a dabs of RTV in the corner of the pan gasket(where the gasket meet the front and rear main) and for the intake I throw the little rubber pieces away they give you for the front and back of the intake, and I use a 1/4" bead of RTV
#5
Why do you say not to use anti-seize on anything with a torque spec?
Isn't anti-seize similar to moly lube? And any time you are putting tourqe on a bolt you should always have at least motor oil so you get good even tourqe (preferably moly lube or... anti-seize.)
If vibration is the reason you are saying no, to anti-seize, I've been working on Naval aircraft for over fifteen years and everything vibrates on an aircraft when it's flying and we put anti-seize on everything, and most of those bolts and screws have a torque spec.
So, why no anti-seize on anything with a torque?
Isn't anti-seize similar to moly lube? And any time you are putting tourqe on a bolt you should always have at least motor oil so you get good even tourqe (preferably moly lube or... anti-seize.)
If vibration is the reason you are saying no, to anti-seize, I've been working on Naval aircraft for over fifteen years and everything vibrates on an aircraft when it's flying and we put anti-seize on everything, and most of those bolts and screws have a torque spec.
So, why no anti-seize on anything with a torque?
#7
Why do you say not to use anti-seize on anything with a torque spec?
Isn't anti-seize similar to moly lube? And any time you are putting tourqe on a bolt you should always have at least motor oil so you get good even tourqe (preferably moly lube or... anti-seize.)
If vibration is the reason you are saying no, to anti-seize, I've been working on Naval aircraft for over fifteen years and everything vibrates on an aircraft when it's flying and we put anti-seize on everything, and most of those bolts and screws have a torque spec.
So, why no anti-seize on anything with a torque?
Isn't anti-seize similar to moly lube? And any time you are putting tourqe on a bolt you should always have at least motor oil so you get good even tourqe (preferably moly lube or... anti-seize.)
If vibration is the reason you are saying no, to anti-seize, I've been working on Naval aircraft for over fifteen years and everything vibrates on an aircraft when it's flying and we put anti-seize on everything, and most of those bolts and screws have a torque spec.
So, why no anti-seize on anything with a torque?
Makes it too easy to over-torque.
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#8
True, if the bolt and bolt hole are completely clean like new. Becasue yes torque specs from the manufacture are usually dry and you may over torque.
Most manufacturers do use dry torque on the asymbly line and that is the torque spec you see in a torque spec chart.
However, most garage mechanics don't install new hardware or tap out bolt holes and get them clean like new. That gunk and debrie will cause an under torque if you don't use some type of lube.
Anti-seize everything especially if it's a steel bolt going into aluminum.
If it's a steel bolt going into a cast iron part use some type of lube (anti-seize) to compensate for all the gunk and debrie unless the bolt and hole are clean like new, then go with either dry torque or use the anti-seize and drop your torque down 10-20%.
Most manufacturers do use dry torque on the asymbly line and that is the torque spec you see in a torque spec chart.
However, most garage mechanics don't install new hardware or tap out bolt holes and get them clean like new. That gunk and debrie will cause an under torque if you don't use some type of lube.
Anti-seize everything especially if it's a steel bolt going into aluminum.
If it's a steel bolt going into a cast iron part use some type of lube (anti-seize) to compensate for all the gunk and debrie unless the bolt and hole are clean like new, then go with either dry torque or use the anti-seize and drop your torque down 10-20%.
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