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Diesel in oil

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Old 04-30-2012, 04:12 PM
edhannan edhannan is offline
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Diesel in oil

I've got an '08 6.4 ltr diesel with 55,000 miles. We use it to tow a 5th wheel and around town. The last oil sample I sent in had 4% fuel in the oil. I was over on the miles since my last change due to health issues. And it had been almost a year since the last change. The previous samples were 3%. The dealer said to change the oil at 3000 miles to get the fuel % down.

My question here is can I make this problem(fuel in oil) go away by eliminating the DPF and adding a tuner. I've never had to add oil between changes since I bought the truck new. Thanks

Ed Hannan
Meraux, LA.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:30 PM
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thats the only way your gonna solve the problem.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:01 PM
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that's the only way your gonna solve the problem.
^^^ This...what he said! Your fuel dilution will drop to between 0-trace with a delete.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:25 PM
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Yep, I deleted and changed the oil. 5000 miles later I changed the oil and sent in a sample. I got back the best analysis ever. 0% dilution. That will do it.

I also had a system going before I deleted that worked pretty well. Installed a fumoto valve on the oil pan. Changed the oil at 5000 miles. Every 1000 miles between changes I jumped under and drained the oil down to 1 quart low. Then added a quart of new oil. Worked well in reducing oil dilution but it is a bit of work.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:45 PM
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some may say they don't have a problem without delete ........ but I'm very confident along with the guys above me that the DPF delete is the ONLY way to fix the fuel in oil issue period no further discussion needed!!! Anything other is a bandade not a fix to the problem which is said but we can thank the EPA for that.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:12 AM
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I don't have a problem with the DPF. My regens are far apart on I don't grow oil because of my driving needs.

Having said that if it becomes a problem I would delete immediately.

Personally I would go with something like DPF-R. I don't want big HP gains.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:33 AM
edhannan edhannan is offline
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Originally Posted by StanleyZ View Post
Yep, I deleted and changed the oil. 5000 miles later I changed the oil and sent in a sample. I got back the best analysis ever. 0% dilution. That will do it.

I also had a system going before I deleted that worked pretty well. Installed a fumoto valve on the oil pan. Changed the oil at 5000 miles. Every 1000 miles between changes I jumped under and drained the oil down to 1 quart low. Then added a quart of new oil. Worked well in reducing oil dilution but it is a bit of work.
did you go with a tuner as well as the delete?
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by senix View Post
I don't have a problem with the DPF. My regens are far apart on I don't grow oil because of my driving needs.

Having said that if it becomes a problem I would delete immediately.

Personally I would go with something like DPF-R. I don't want big HP gains.
DPF-R? Kinda new to this forum, please be patient thanks

Ed
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by edhannan View Post
did you go with a tuner as well as the delete?
You can read a lot on this subject in this forum. But for a quckie: to delete you must have a pipe to replace the space in the exhaust presently being filled by the DPF. You may or may not need a pipe with sensors depending on which tuner you buy. you must also have a device that changes the computer programming so that the truck does not go into regen. The tuner may or may not also increase truck horse power and torque. Go to the forum and look up DPF-R, Spartan, Edge, H&S, for starters. You can also go to Ebay and under auto/parts/ enter DPF delete. Invest a few hours in research and you will have a much better understanding of the way the DPF works and how your truck works. And, remember, removing the DPF is a federal crime so if you do it do it fully informed. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:54 AM
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IMO, the deleting the DPF will solve part of the problem, not the silver bullet. I have not deleted and the last report, was less than .2%, not 2%. Yes, my habits are 16 miles one way to work each day with 4 miles slow and the last 12 at 65 and I do pull at least every other weekend. I believe that the main culprit is city driving, and idling on these engines. On initial startup, even if its 90 degrees at 6:00 in the morning, we are shooting a lot of fuel in all chambers and it is not completely burning, same with idling, a lot of fuel pumped in and seeping by unspent. Reason I say this is my experience and then supported by my close neighbor who is owner of a 40 year old transmission shop here and has an 08 SD 6.4l. He deleted 18 months ago, he has kept some really good records. Even with his delete his last report was over 2% nearly 3, and the difference was a lot of idling and city driving with towing in city traffic. I do believe in the delete just from a standpoint that it takes out restrictions in the exhaust, that is pure physics, but getting into the oil has to be blowby around the rings and not just on 2 cylinders, to get the dilution that has been posted in the past. Don't get me wrong, once MY warranty is up in 21k, I will be deleting, then I will experience it and may change my mind about the dilution.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:35 AM
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Understanding how fuel gets in the oil...to expand upon Geartis and Stanleys great explainations.

The rings on this motor are purposefully loose from the factory. The top ring is a keystone ring. It is designed to expand with heat to create the seal.

Designed this way because of the heavy boost this motor produces. With boost comes heat and alot of it.

That is why even with the DPF you can still have very little to no fuel in the oil.

Idleing DPF on or off is unnecessary and wastes fuel. The motor will get cold just sitting there and then the seal is broken around the rings and you get fuel in the oil.
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