1990 E350 transmission problems
#1
1990 E350 transmission problems
Hello,
looks like i finally found a site on the net with the right expertiese!
have a '90 ford e350 club wagon XLT witch i bought resently. has a 7.3 diesel.
looks like i finally found a site on the net with the right expertiese!
have a '90 ford e350 club wagon XLT witch i bought resently. has a 7.3 diesel.
the car has been working quite nice, but has been quite "hard" between 1 and 2 gear. if i dont slow down before the shifting, it wil shift "with a bang" and more speed i have the more bang when shifting. also the whole car wil shivver and shake when i have flat pedal and shifting is happening. like its struggeling with something.
i thought my transmission was broken so i have just tore the old one out. what i found out whas that the whole bellhousing was full of oil. is this correct ??? i thought the oil should be in the converter and transmission rather than in the bellhousing. i also found som particles in the bottom of the bellhousing. looks like rock but it might just be metal..
so what i really wonder is what can i do to improve this transmission?? will a filter and oil shift cure most problems? or is something else broken(oil in bellhousing = crappy seals?)
also, do someone know how i can identyfy the gearbox? have a parts car , not shure year. hope the transmission will fit, but how can i be sure its right?
any code?
Thank you for your reply and help!
greetings from the woods of norway
i thought my transmission was broken so i have just tore the old one out. what i found out whas that the whole bellhousing was full of oil. is this correct ??? i thought the oil should be in the converter and transmission rather than in the bellhousing. i also found som particles in the bottom of the bellhousing. looks like rock but it might just be metal..
so what i really wonder is what can i do to improve this transmission?? will a filter and oil shift cure most problems? or is something else broken(oil in bellhousing = crappy seals?)
also, do someone know how i can identyfy the gearbox? have a parts car , not shure year. hope the transmission will fit, but how can i be sure its right?
any code?
Thank you for your reply and help!
greetings from the woods of norway
#2
#3
#4
Thanks for quick reply!
the oil was quite black, and smell like ****.. but it was very dark where i worked so i didnt see the oil very clear when it drained down in the pit
when the transmission was dropped, oil flowen out of the rear nose. is this right?? i belive it should be sealed right?
how much oil should there be in these transmissions actually? a friend of mine sayd it should be over 15liters (ca 15.8 quarts) atf is not cheap so hope its not that much..
the oil was quite black, and smell like ****.. but it was very dark where i worked so i didnt see the oil very clear when it drained down in the pit
when the transmission was dropped, oil flowen out of the rear nose. is this right?? i belive it should be sealed right?
how much oil should there be in these transmissions actually? a friend of mine sayd it should be over 15liters (ca 15.8 quarts) atf is not cheap so hope its not that much..
#6
It depends if it is damaged or just has a piece of debris making it stick. It runs in oil, it's inside the pan.
#7
Thanks for your reply mark!! much good help
but now after a solid 15working hours on this transmission stuff.. here is the update:
- the oil on the old transmission smelled like burned clutch, and of course i forgot to mention in the first post here, that the transmission worked nice in revers BUT not forward...... its burned on the discs.. remanifactured transmissions are hard to find here in norway, and expensive ande time consuming to send in for overhaul.. therefore i tore it all out and headed for the parts car:
-parts car is a 86, and the "real" car is a 90. the transmission from the parts car was smaller in construction, much simpler. BUT the oil was clean and nice, and the pan was not full of particles and *****.. so out came the transmisson from the parts car
-TM turned out to be 10cm smaller than the original, so the driveshaft had to be changed.. but the parts car longer driveshaft was broken at the rear end. so hade to cut and weld the driveshaft. helluva job to get straigt, but it turned out nice
-The converter didnt fit over, so had to replace that as well. and the linkage for shifter was not same, but was easy bolt over. the travers (transmission mount beam?) had to be modded some to fit over
-cooiling pipes hade to be slightly modified, and dipsticktube had to be switched. got the gearbox inplace and driveshaft and everyting mounted up. willed up alot of oil in the transmission(brand new BP ATF DX 3)
-THEN COMES THE PROBLEM!! the old transmission have more, and different electronical mounts(mulit pin)
the old TM have one multipin down against the pan from the top. and it have a multipin at the shifter on left side. and of course speedowire and backing light.
the new "but older" transmission, does only have the multi pin at the shifter BUT only 4 connectors, the old one have 8 and guess what, THE CAR WONT START!! before the starting lock is functioning.
the question is therefore very straight forward:
how to wire up the 1990 multipin to work with the 1986 4pin connector for the startlock ???
and, is the multipin for the pan connector(whatever it is) needed? or can it just hang under the car, not connected to something?
hope for a quick reply! need the car up and running tomorrow.
but now after a solid 15working hours on this transmission stuff.. here is the update:
- the oil on the old transmission smelled like burned clutch, and of course i forgot to mention in the first post here, that the transmission worked nice in revers BUT not forward...... its burned on the discs.. remanifactured transmissions are hard to find here in norway, and expensive ande time consuming to send in for overhaul.. therefore i tore it all out and headed for the parts car:
-parts car is a 86, and the "real" car is a 90. the transmission from the parts car was smaller in construction, much simpler. BUT the oil was clean and nice, and the pan was not full of particles and *****.. so out came the transmisson from the parts car
-TM turned out to be 10cm smaller than the original, so the driveshaft had to be changed.. but the parts car longer driveshaft was broken at the rear end. so hade to cut and weld the driveshaft. helluva job to get straigt, but it turned out nice
-The converter didnt fit over, so had to replace that as well. and the linkage for shifter was not same, but was easy bolt over. the travers (transmission mount beam?) had to be modded some to fit over
-cooiling pipes hade to be slightly modified, and dipsticktube had to be switched. got the gearbox inplace and driveshaft and everyting mounted up. willed up alot of oil in the transmission(brand new BP ATF DX 3)
-THEN COMES THE PROBLEM!! the old transmission have more, and different electronical mounts(mulit pin)
the old TM have one multipin down against the pan from the top. and it have a multipin at the shifter on left side. and of course speedowire and backing light.
the new "but older" transmission, does only have the multi pin at the shifter BUT only 4 connectors, the old one have 8 and guess what, THE CAR WONT START!! before the starting lock is functioning.
the question is therefore very straight forward:
how to wire up the 1990 multipin to work with the 1986 4pin connector for the startlock ???
and, is the multipin for the pan connector(whatever it is) needed? or can it just hang under the car, not connected to something?
hope for a quick reply! need the car up and running tomorrow.
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#9
Sounds like you swapped out an e4od for a c6.
I THINK the c6 has a 4 pin connector. One set of pins should have continuity when the transmission is in neutral and park, the other set should have continuity when in reverse only.
Your ECU may not appreciate no feedback from the E4OD. You might have to go get an ECU from a manual F series truck with your vans engine. Making it work would require some harness work, it would be very challenging, and may not work at all.
I THINK the c6 has a 4 pin connector. One set of pins should have continuity when the transmission is in neutral and park, the other set should have continuity when in reverse only.
Your ECU may not appreciate no feedback from the E4OD. You might have to go get an ECU from a manual F series truck with your vans engine. Making it work would require some harness work, it would be very challenging, and may not work at all.
#10
thanks for reply!! but im not sure if your diagrams are the right. as you see in my pic the connector have 8 pins, but they are bridged on the back side, so its actually 4 pins. but its 6 cables so some of the 4 contections have 1 cable and the rest have 2. i wonder whom of those 4(8) pins that i need to conect with the 4pin connector on the transmission in order to make it work? if it will ever work.. if not i have a major major problem... have so far spent over 20hours wrenching on this...
#11
Tistlo if you need any help finding or receiving any parts for your project I'm sure someone here will be willing to help----me for one.
I have a friend in Denmark who has asked me on occasion to forward something he can't get sent directly to him from the USA---sellers not interested, etc etc.
Keep this in mind if parts are too expensive or nearly impossible to find.
Best of luck with finishing your swap project!
I have a friend in Denmark who has asked me on occasion to forward something he can't get sent directly to him from the USA---sellers not interested, etc etc.
Keep this in mind if parts are too expensive or nearly impossible to find.
Best of luck with finishing your swap project!
#12
thanks for reply!! but im not sure if your diagrams are the right. as you see in my pic the connector have 8 pins, but they are bridged on the back side, so its actually 4 pins. but its 6 cables so some of the 4 contections have 1 cable and the rest have 2. i wonder whom of those 4(8) pins that i need to conect with the 4pin connector on the transmission in order to make it work? if it will ever work.. if not i have a major major problem... have so far spent over 20hours wrenching on this...
#13
many thanks guys!!! very much to help
and now it RUNS, forward and back
didnt get much smart on the wiring...so i wired up a cable from batteri 12v+ directly to the starter solenoid via a switch under the dash.. oh yea starting up nicely and everything worked perfectly !! i think i had around 13-14 liters of oil on the transmission before it was right on the dipstick
the driveshaft was even centered
only differance is that this transmission requires more rpm to shift. espessially up to 3rd. but i can live with that! now its all about driving nice and checking oil regularely
thanks all for your help!
and now it RUNS, forward and back
didnt get much smart on the wiring...so i wired up a cable from batteri 12v+ directly to the starter solenoid via a switch under the dash.. oh yea starting up nicely and everything worked perfectly !! i think i had around 13-14 liters of oil on the transmission before it was right on the dipstick
the driveshaft was even centered
only differance is that this transmission requires more rpm to shift. espessially up to 3rd. but i can live with that! now its all about driving nice and checking oil regularely
thanks all for your help!
#14
#15