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So a few months ago I asked about a non-functioning horn and what was all involved. Anyways I finally replaced EVERYTHING because all I had was the actual horn itself (which I tested and it worked).
So got it working yesterday and it worked fine then my dad was like hey lets change the pitch with the adjustment screw, so I said sure but it sounded like the diaphragm got jammed so I bought a new one, their cheap. Installed it this morning and same thing sounds like it's stuck or broken so I took jumper cables to it straight from the battery and they both work fine.
I have narrowed it down to lack of power its not the ground but I don't know how I would be getting such a large drop off. Since I actually got it working I don't want to rewire it, however if I can't figure it out that's what I'll do, I know it's not hard it just looks cleaner stock.
Thanks guys!
Are you certain it is not ground? Make sure you have bare metal to metal contact along with just for kicks run a short ground wire from the battery to the horn mounting. If that fixes it you are missing the ground that runs from the battery to the core support. You should also be able to run it from the engine block if you want.
69 One place that you might look is at the coupling of the steering column around the rag joint. I made a jumper about 3" or so long attached it to both sides, (steering gear & column) proving the needed ground and the horn works well again.
Not expensive t try.
John
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In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
To a degree I know it isn't the relay because it didn't work at all until I replaced that, so that makes me think it's not that.
Also I don't think it is the ground because I grounded it to the battery just like I hooked it up to the battery to make sure it wasn't the horn, then I bolted it back to the core support and only connected the power wire from the battery same thing. So it doesn't sound like the ground either.
So let me see you connected both the ground and the positive when it WASN'T bolted to the core support but did NOT try connecting a ground after you bolted it back on the sore support. Obviously you should do what you think it is.
So let me see you connected both the ground and the positive when it WASN'T bolted to the core support but did NOT try connecting a ground after you bolted it back on the sore support. Obviously you should do what you think it is.
I did two things.
1st - Put the horn on the ground. Then hooked up the power and ground to the battery. Then put the ground on some random spot on the horn, and the power on the tab that comes out of the side of the horn. It worked.
2nd - I bolted the horn to the core support the way it is meant to be. Then proceeded to only connect a cable from the power side of the battery to the tab on the horn (to test the grounding theory), it worked the same. Therefore it leads me to believe it is not a grounding problem but a serious voltage drop.
A lack of a good ground is a source of voltage drop. I have to ask. The battery and horn are so close to each other. It is a very short cable to connect. You could use jumper cables for that matter Leave the feed line of the horn connected to the truck. Connect from the ground of the battery to the horn. Why are you so resistant to try something that simple? Just like John's suggestion. A 3" piece of wire to make the bridge across the rag joint. Once again very simple to try yet you absolutely refuse.
As I said before whatever you think it is has to be the problem. You are just waiting for one of us to say what you think it is instead of trying what we suggest.
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not horny enough
