when swapping crank, rods, pistons, heads and intake from a 390 to a 360 does it matter what years the two motors are other than the hardened valve seats. The 360 is a 72 and the 390 im looking at is a 76.

 

So you're replacing the block on your 390 with a 360 block, I think you'll be fine.

 

Am i gonna get good performance with the stock 390 parts i.e. heads and cam

 

better than a 360 , but an after market cam will give you more hp and torq

 

What about the 76 heads are they gonna be ok maybe with larger valves

 

The performance you can get out of an FE is incredible, depends on your budget and what you want to use it for. All the information on the stock specs of a FE engine are available on Wiki under Ford FE engines, so start there and decide what you want.

 

Ok but if you had your choice would you build the 390 or 360 with 390 parts

 

The blocks are identical so I'd definitely go 390

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...00-360-c6.html

Just to add on here, in the pickup engines, the 360 and 390 are identical as far as heads, block, manifolds, everything but the crank, rods and pistons.

 

Block and heads are the same, so use whichever is in better condition.
If you're looking for decent performance, I would assume you intend to have whichever block you build from to be bored enough to true up the cyl walls. This step is almost always a requirement for putting 390 crank/rods in a 360 block, due to the longer stroke.
This would be the perfect time to step up from the stock 76 390's 8:1 compression ratio. The most cost effective way to do this, is using pistons for a 360 in whatever overbore size is needed to clean up the block. Net's 9.3-9.5:1 CR.
The next area for getting a great return on investment is the cam. Stock cam is more geared for emissions than power/torque. For about the same cost as stock replacement cam, you can step up to a "RV" cam or mild performance grind.
Add a "straight up" timing chain/gear set, and that 390 will make good power/torque, and still be capable of running on the stuff they sell as "gas" these days, and doesn't use any more of it than it would at stock specs (when driven in a reasonable manner).
Best of all, a 390 built this way costs right at the exact same as one rebuilt to full stock specs.

 

Don't forget headers and dual exhaust. An FE has to breath,

 

I would imagine my 360 block is in better condition as i can vouch for 46000 being the actual mileage it's been in the family since new and i am second owner so block and pistons should be ok

 

46000 is fairly low miles, if truely accurate. Even at that, converting the 360 into a 390 may require a "clean up" bore. The pistons/rings will be travelling further inside the cyl, and if the cyl walls are not 100% true, it can lead to major problems.
Only a machinist with a good bore gauge can give you the answer on how much wear there is in the bores.

 

Cool i planned on getting it checked out by my machinist the mileage is correct just over 46000 and a good story lol my grandma scraped every last penny to buy it in march of 72 and has taken great care of it until she gave it to me a few years ago

 

IF the 360 is still in the truck and running leave it there and build the 390 on the side then just do the switch one weekend . my original 360 was running but a time bomb waiting to blow. picked up the 390 out of a tbird and built it while still making lowes run in the 360 . this will also spread the money spent over some time so you can get some extra go fast goodies .