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  #61  
Old 08-30-2015, 09:36 PM
Tmpst Tmpst is offline
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
Wow, talk about triple unsafe.

Stewart
Noob question then..... Why? It's the exact setup that 4wheelparts installed. I doubt they'd let it leave their shop unsafe to drive.
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  #62  
Old 08-30-2015, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tmpst View Post
Noob question then..... Why? It's the exact setup that 4wheelparts installed. I doubt they'd let it leave their shop unsafe to drive.
Stacked blocks is NEVER as safe as a single block for a lift, or vs. an all spring lift. People and shops still do it, but stacked blocks will separate if enough power is sent to the ground through the suspension.

Stewart
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Last edited by Stewart_H; 08-30-2015 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Better wording
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  #63  
Old 08-31-2015, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmpst View Post
Wow, Tahoe is a little away lol. Yes, the plan is that the lift would go too. In all reality, I don't know for sure how high the lift is. I know that it's high enough that she needs 3 blocks on the back to level with the front. Everything looks clean and are Pro-comp. I've got some pictures, but I don't have enough posts to upload.

You can post pictures here on your very first post. Upload the pictures to a free hosting site like Photobucket then copy the IMG code to your post here.
And yeah, stacked blocks are not the best setup.
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  #64  
Old 08-31-2015, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shockwavrider View Post
Hi all!

I'm looking for the runningboards for a 2000 excursion XLT. Mine are in tact on the top, being the plastic side with the lighting, but the metal panel that runs the full length of them underneath that provides the support to them is all rotted away. Looks like most of my brackets are still good even though they are rusty it's more the support piece that gives the Runningboard it's rigidity that shot on both sides! Anybody have any Runningboard sets where that piece is intact that they're willing to part with? And even if it's only one side or the other I'd be willing to do one side at a time if it was available.

Thanks in advance!
I still have my stock running boards from my 2000 limited if you're interested. Located just north of Charlotte. They're in great shape.
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  #65  
Old 08-31-2015, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmpst View Post
Wow, Tahoe is a little away lol. Yes, the plan is that the lift would go too. In all reality, I don't know for sure how high the lift is. I know that it's high enough that she needs 3 blocks on the back to level with the front. Everything looks clean and are Pro-comp. I've got some pictures, but I don't have enough posts to upload.
Are you saying there's 3 blocks between the leafs and the axle???!


Don't get me wrong, I've ran stacked blockes in a off road rig before, but I did it the "proper" way and had upgraded u bolt size, and had a massive traction bar to keep axle wrap from happening.
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  #66  
Old 08-31-2015, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hav24wheel View Post
Are you saying there's 3 blocks between the leafs and the axle???!


Don't get me wrong, I've ran stacked blockes in a off road rig before, but I did it the "proper" way and had upgraded u bolt size, and had a massive traction bar to keep axle wrap from happening.
Right now there's 2, with the third has yet to be put in (the original guy liked the California look of the front being higher).

Here's a few of the pics of the setup.


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  #67  
Old 08-31-2015, 08:52 AM
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Might be another noob post but: Cant you weld the 3 blocks together?
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  #68  
Old 08-31-2015, 10:06 AM
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stacked blocks

The problem with stacked blocks is that the taller the blocks the more leverage the axle has on the springs to try and 'twist' them.
When the springs twist (also called axle wrap) it puts the majority of the load on either the front or rear edge of the blocks, and when multiple blocks are used this can sometimes cause one or more of the blocks to pop out which of course would be bad!

You can see this 'effect' for yourself. Go to the grocery store and grab a box of cereal by the top and hold it so the front is facing the floor. Easy right?
Now grab 2 boxes by the top and hold them out front facing down - not so easy, they want to spring apart on the side away from your hand.
Now add a 3rd box and you can see that the middle box really wants to jump out.
Same thing is happening to your axle blocks every time you start and stop, and the more power you apply the more they want to jump out.

2 blocks Isn't the 'worst' thing, in fact most of the budget lifts install a block on top of your factory block, but its also not the best thing especially for a vehicle that is likely to be used for towing, or actually wheeled hard. 3 Blocks is a bit riskier, it would be better to get a taller block to replace one of the existing ones, or get a taller spring and remove some or all of the blocks.
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  #69  
Old 08-31-2015, 10:08 PM
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Tail Light Assembly & plug

This seems like a long shot, but does anyone have a

Tail Light Assembly - Passenger (Right side) also fits Ford E-Series F7UB-13440-AA

Mine is leaking and I also need the reverse light plug (socket). F17B-13411-GC

Dealer wants $18 just for the socket.

2002 Excursion

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  #70  
Old Yesterday, 08:43 AM
az_r2d1 az_r2d1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
If no joy here, they run $17 to $20 bucks online.

Stewart
Picked it up but doesn't come w bolts/nuts.. what the...
Anyone know the sizes?
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  #71  
Old Yesterday, 12:27 PM
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Looking for a 00-Ish excursion grill (square mesh style) if anyone happens to have a spare around

Please PM me if you have one as I don't check this thread too often, also could put my 99 F250 grill up if anyone wants it
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