Hey who said I was having 2nd thoughts?

 

Like Nate said, band clamps for the win. Ask me how I know.

 

instead of buying a propane bottle, get a bottle of mapp gas. is gives a hotter flame.
mapp gas is easily recognized by the yellow bottle.
propane is in a green bottle.

agreed clamps after turbo will be fine. but do yourself a favor and use the band clamps. they are well worth the few extra dollars when you need to remove the pipes and do not have to break out the plasma cutter to cut them apart.

 

That sounds good I'll go for the mapp gas then. As I recall, they should share the same nozzle so I can use the one I have for either bottle I believe.

I hope Napa (where I'm getting the clamp) has those band clamps as well. I used those on my camaro in a few spots, but then couldn't find any stores that had more (I had to cut the exhaust in like 3 places). I decided to be impatient and get the normal U-bolt type clamp..... I hated myself when I had to take the exhaust off the next time. The band clamps are definitely a lot nicer to use.

 

you may have to order the band clamps.
and mapp gas uses a regular propane torch

 

I was meaning more in the ways of the younger generations ignorance these days. Not everyone but there sure is a lot

 

The technical term is Preheat. Since the arc from your 120V welder isn't very hot, cold metal will absorb the heat and make a crappy weld with little penetration or fusion. Preheat will slow the heat transfer away from the weld puddle thus improving penetration and fusion. Even with a 240V welder, preheat is a very good idea on heavy steel, like 1"+ thick. Most welding codes require preheat at a certain thickness. Then if you get even thicker they require post weld heat treating (PWHT) to relieve the residual stresses from the welding process.

 

You technically don't need any form of exhaust piping after the turbo. Ask me how I know lol

My 110 welder (90 amp to boot) does pretty good for being a $90 Harbor Freight special. I wouldn't trust it much on something like welding a frame, but i did some exhaus work on my '73 and I actually burned through a few times on the low setting

 

hey guys, need some help from the brain trust here.
i was over trying to see what is up with 1bigjoe's short bus.
here is what he has done so far:
new cps -ford
new ipr
new ipc
new valve covers/ & pigtails
new fuel pump
hpop full
new glow plugs / & relay
two new 1000 cca batteries
new injector O-rings

cranks really fast--no smoke -no start
its the short bus there is no tachometer

it was running fine, but started acting up as he was driving up front from the back yard. when he got to his tool shed it died. and has sat there dead since.
of course because i plugged it in the autoenginuity decided to erase the activation code, and i did not have it to re enter into the laptop. i tried the hand held scanner, but got nowhere.
there is no smoke at all out of the tailpipe.
it almost sounds like no fuel, but it has fuel pressure at the schrader valve. not sur ehow much, but when you depress the schrader fuel shoots out.
i am working on getting the activation code for AE.

anyone have any ideas what to look for?

 

Hmm well even though it's not supposed to be very common, I had issues with my IDMs when I first got my truck running.

If it is getting fuel and the HPOP is full, ICP, IPR, CPS, valve cover wiring etc are all good and new, it seems like it's starting to point down towards the IDM or the PCM.

I'm new to this motor as of this year, but I had studied this issue pretty heavily since I had two IDMs fail within a month (I believe bad injectors played a roll in that as well as poor grounds).

Maybe try testing that bus's IDM in yout truck and see if it starts?

 

ok, i read that wrong.
and i know what you mean, it seems like every generation of younguns gets stupider by the day. i think it has something to do with computers, video games, and political correctness.
and you are correct, there are a few younguns that truly care, and want to learn. but 99% of them would rather sit on their fat butts and play computer games.


i have a lot of respect for the kids that ask questions, and challenge the answers if they feel there is a better way to do things than what the old standard is.
this means they are thinking. and if they can show me a way of doing it correctly but easier and safer, i am all for learning along with them and let them know it.
this in turn makes them feel good, and makes them do a better job because they know they are getting the approval and respect from someone they in turn respect enough to ask for help.

 

Joe said he swapped the IDM with his 97 pickup and it worked in the 97 but the one from the 97 did not work in short bus in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-98-7-3-a.html
his test procedure is to swap parts with the two trucks to see if the one from short bus is good or not.

 

Assuming you've verified all fuses are good (like the fuel bowl heater), then I'd ask about if it was slow starting before that might indicate worn injectors.

If not, I'd look for chaffed wires after the IDM (like around the 42 pin connector) and consider swapping the PCM with the truck. (assuming there's no chip in the bus that needs to be removed and checked first).

Sorry I'm too lazy to read the thread tonight.

 

Since we are talking welds how about these gems! I should note this was done with a 110v mig with flux core wire...




attempt 1




attempt 2




Attempt 3

 

A flux core 110 will suffice once you get the hang of it

In most situations of course...