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the official OBS diesel off topic thread

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  #10651  
Old 08-19-2014, 08:59 AM
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Morning fellas.

Nate, I can't see doing all that engine swap work either. If it's running fine, I'd not want to go there.
 
  #10652  
Old 08-19-2014, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by liftnw8z
Morning fellas.

Nate, I can't see doing all that engine swap work either. If it's running fine, I'd not want to go there.
Mornin'!

If you haven't seen it, you must. Somebody showed it to me and this ridiculous humor is my sorta thing.
I dont even play console games either lol.

<iframe height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/dLuPa-qQ2MY" frameBorder="0" width="560" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
 
  #10653  
Old 08-19-2014, 09:15 AM
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Dude, that went by on my Facebook feed - I laughed so hard. I'm not a gamer either - heck, I just got around to starting a build thread for the OBS...
 
  #10654  
Old 08-19-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by liftnw8z
Morning fellas.

Nate, I can't see doing all that engine swap work either. If it's running fine, I'd not want to go there.
I wouldn't say it's running fine, but I still can't see swapping the engine to pick up a few PSI. We'll see what happens after the injector swap.
 
  #10655  
Old 08-19-2014, 10:46 AM
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Wow that's quite a difference between cold and warm. But I also don't see going through the frustration for that little of psi. There's gotta be something somewhere!

I'd be scared to do a compression test on mine lol. Heck, by now mine might be running similar compression to a gasser lol!
 
  #10656  
Old 08-19-2014, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
I think Ford spec says new compression is around 400 PSI. It's funny because you can't really find a definite answer.... The important thing is that all the cylinders be close to a +/- 10% variance. If you have one that is more than 10% off that can be a red flag that something is amiss...

Generally what I'm reading is that as long as you're getting 300 PSI or better you're in okay shape. I'm not sure what I will do at this point. I don't see much reason to swap engines to gain 20-30 PSI on a hole or two...
Ok and Thank you, and I agree with you.


 
  #10657  
Old 08-19-2014, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by El Camino Man
I'd be scared to do a compression test on mine lol. Heck, by now mine might be running similar compression to a gasser lol!
Yeah I was thinking the same on mine. Thankfuly I haven't had any reason to check it yet...lol
 
  #10658  
Old 08-19-2014, 11:50 AM
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Did you break my grease whip Nate!!?? Lol
 
  #10659  
Old 08-19-2014, 11:54 AM
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Nate it seems like most people suggest to do a compression test at operating temperature. If you see that much difference on a 50* spread I wonder what it would be with another 100* on that. You may have better numbers than you think once it is up to temp
 
  #10660  
Old 08-19-2014, 01:22 PM
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Well, Todd I may have but you have a snazzy new one now! Set me back at least $6, lol.

Nick I thought so too, but the odd thing is that I saw literally NO difference in results between 72* and 172* temperature, which was essentially ambient temp and operating temp. But there was a big difference between the results from 20* to 172* which surprised me. What I should do is test it again now at ambient temperature (75* - 80* or so) and see which result was closer to what I get. The results so far would tend to make me think that I won't see a big difference between the results I got last night at 172* and what I could get tonight at 75*. I may do that in the name of science, lol.
 
  #10661  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Well, Todd I may have but you have a snazzy new one now! Set me back at least $6, lol.

Nick I thought so too, but the odd thing is that I saw literally NO difference in results between 72* and 172* temperature, which was essentially ambient temp and operating temp. But there was a big difference between the results from 20* to 172* which surprised me. What I should do is test it again now at ambient temperature (75* - 80* or so) and see which result was closer to what I get. The results so far would tend to make me think that I won't see a big difference between the results I got last night at 172* and what I could get tonight at 75*. I may do that in the name of science, lol.
 
  #10662  
Old 08-19-2014, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Well, Todd I may have but you have a snazzy new one now! Set me back at least $6, lol. Nick I thought so too, but the odd thing is that I saw literally NO difference in results between 72* and 172* temperature, which was essentially ambient temp and operating temp. But there was a big difference between the results from 20* to 172* which surprised me. What I should do is test it again now at ambient temperature (75* - 80* or so) and see which result was closer to what I get. The results so far would tend to make me think that I won't see a big difference between the results I got last night at 172* and what I could get tonight at 75*. I may do that in the name of science, lol.
Hmmm. Well in my opinion I can't see lower compression being from thicker oil. But the difference in materials( cast aluminium and whatever the rings are valves and seat) could be your difference
 
  #10663  
Old 08-19-2014, 05:44 PM
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I think I could. The truck always turns over slower when its cold, thick oil is part of the reason. I don't think even with a charger on it it would turn over as fast as it would when its 70 outside. If it turns over slower, your readings won't be as high.
 
  #10664  
Old 08-19-2014, 06:55 PM
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That makes sense Darin.
 
  #10665  
Old 08-20-2014, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Awitte58
Where is the "Like" button on here, Alex?! That's pretty good. I love those movies.

That's the only thing that makes sense to me too Darin. Which to me begs the question; what role does the quality of your starter make in the results you get from your compression test? If the little bit of cranking speed difference makes that big a difference in the compression numbers, then I wonder what kind of results you would get with a new gear reduction starter on it as opposed to an older, tired OEM starter. I guess this all boils down to the fact that these numbers are more for comparison to each other (looking for a deviation between the cylinders) than they are a solid gauge of what kind of shape your engine's internals are in. I think for that a blow-by tester would be better anyway, but I don't have one of those....

I guess you could say the "crick rose" last night (figuratively and literally -- it's been raining cats and dogs here for about the last 12 hours). A good friend of mine called last night and wanted me to go with him to look at a stock trailer he wanted to buy, so we went and did that last night instead. I got a peanut butter milkshake out of the deal and he got a screaming deal on a 16' stock trailer.

What I didn't get is a single thing done on my truck. Oh well. Tonight or tomorrow, I guess.
 


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