Hey guys,

I am trying to figure out how to get the horn to work on our 1966 Ford F250 4x4. The turn signal switch that came on this truck has been modified, most likely due to the steering hub for an aftermarket wheel.



As you can see, they broke off the original ring around the top. They also drilled a small hole through the bracket and ran the wire for the horn up into a sleeve with a spring and a copper connector to rub against the bottom of the aftermarket hub.

Recently, I purchased this brand new turn signal switch.



The problem is, I don't know if the new switch will work with the hub for the aftermarket steering wheel.

Here is a picture of the hub that is currently on the steering column.



Basically, I want to get the turn signals and horn to work so I can get this truck on the road ASAP. It doesn't have to be perfect for now, we are using the truck as a work truck, not restoring it to original.

My main problem is, I don't understand how the horn wiring works. I read a couple of threads on here but can't figure it out. It seems like only one wire comes up to connect to the horn button. I'm not great with electrical but how does the circuit work?

I know I could wire the horn to the battery with a button to create the connection but I don't want to do that if I can make this work.

I am willing to buy the plastic canceling cam so the signals will work with this modified turn signal switch if the new one will not fit with the aftermarket wheel.

Basically, can someone explain to me how the horn actually works when you press the button? I don't understand how one wire coming into the horn button can create a connection for the horn to honk.

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

 

It doesn't matter whether you install the correct T/S switch, or just replace the cancelling cam. The horn still won't blow because you have an aftermarket (gypo) steering wheel.

The original 4 spoke steering wheel has a small hole underneath the horn button (C1TZ-13A805-D) for the horn brush (COAF-13A821-A) and its insulator (C1TF-13A821-A) to fit into.

Between the horn button and the steering wheel is a coil spring (C1TZ-13A807-A).

While the horn brush, insulator and spring are obsolete (as is the horn button), there's enough of these parts available NOS to fix 50 (!) of these trucks. But these parts cannot be used with the gypo wheel.

The only way to fix the horn properly is to get the correct 4 spoke wheel and its related horn parts. Otherwise, you're up **** creek without a paddle, so you'll have to fab something up.

 

I understand that this is not the factory set up and that this switch was modified. You can see it in the picture. There is a brush and insulator attached to the modified switch that keeps pressure against the aftermarket hub. There is also wire that was soldered to the hub but is broken off.

What I don't understand is how does one wire coming into the switch assembly cause the horn to blow? What happens when the horn button is pressed on that causes the horn to blow? What is the type of circuit that it uses. This is more of an electrical question than anything. I know you aren't an electrician because I read it in another post

In other cars that I have hooked up a horn, I just connected it to the battery and put a switch in to finish the circuit. However, from what I can tell with the turn signal switch assembly, there is only one wire running to the horn, not two.

I just want to fix the horn and signals on this truck to get in on the road for the time being. I can save the new switch for when I find the proper steering wheel (which as you know is very difficult to find). You said you wouldn't be going back to La La Truck Land until June unless prodded. When you do go, I would greatly appreciate it if you could pick me one up if they have one there.

 

You press the spring loaded horn button, it contacts the horn brush which makes contact with the turn signal switch.

Ask FTE member Buzz44 (Vic) for assistance, he has a couple of these 4WD trucks.

It was because of him that I know how many of these parts are available NOS, cuz I looked up the part numbers, then passed along the sources/quantity of each after he asked me to do so.

If you ask, I might find the time between now and May 7th to whiz over to the South Central LA truck wrecking yard and take a look-see.

But, between May 8th thru the end of May, I won't be available and will not have any internet access (thank the lawd!).

 

Since you put it that way, would you please swing by the South Central LA truck wrecking yard and take a look-see for me?

How much do you think they would want for it? I can send you the funds in advance if you would like.

Thank you for all of your help!

 

The last time I was there, found some NOS Ford tailgates high up on a rack, 10' off the floor. Been itchin' to go back and find out what they fit.

They won't be there long if they're for what I think they fit, after eyeballin' what I could see of them.

If they have the wheel, I'll chisel the price down as low as I can (as usual), then give you the info. Click on my user name, pass along your email address, cuz you haven't listed it.

Been hittin' this yard since 1967, FTE members camperspecial65, garbz2, gangstakr and 37 Ford Guy have all bought parts from this gold mine for old rolling piles of misery.

 

I can't send private messages because I don't have the required post count. That being the case, my email is dacampeau@gmail.com

I look forward to hearing what kind of goodies you come back with

Thanks again!

 

Tailgates, I missed those.....But i found the pile of 4x4 stone guards.....

Bill, I would like to hit there in June as i need a front large opening fender.

Garbz

 

I didn't ask you to send me a P/M, I asked you to send me an email. But, I dunno if you can even do that until you type 25 posts. Click on my user name, a window will drop down, see if you can P/M or email me.

 

You missed them? Hell, Dave I missed them, had no clue they were there. Marty told me they've been there almost as long as I've been hitting the yard. There are 6 NOS, from what I can see, at least 3 are "wrong beds."

There are no right fenders, only lefts. A greedy SOB went there (dunno who) after I made the mistake of listing the info including the address, and bought all the right sides.

This occurred sometime last year. Why the SOB bought only the rights, I dunno, doesn't make any sense.

 

I tried but I can't send you an email or private message. I changed my settings so you should be able to send me email now.

 

Just did....

 

Ill take a look at the wiring setup on these trucks to make sure how to advise on how to proceed to bypass the horn button if thats what you are trying to do. Best guess without looking at a wiring diagram is that you will have to ad a button or contact someplace other than the steering wheel or column and it sounds like you dont want to do that. Like Bill says with some type of aftermarket steering wheel you may be SOL. Let me take a look at the wiring diagram and get back to you. It may take a day or two but you will hear back from me. Hey Bill any chance that South Central would have any of the repair panels for the bottom of the tailight housings on the wrong long styleside boxes? Just curious as they seem to have alot of useful stuff there and these are not reproduced anywhere. Would they mind if you gave out the phone # so someone not from the area could call and check for certain parts. I talked to a few people at Portland that were reluctant to have their phone # out on the internet. These guys might be the same way if so I understand.

 

Hope my explanation helps!

 

How can the horn be made to blow with an aftermarket steering wheel that has no provision for the original horn brush & insulator?