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Water Pump Thread (Resolved, just waiting on me to finish up)

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  #16  
Old 04-23-2012, 10:47 PM
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Just saw the price for sn Oil Cooler seal kit...


 
  #17  
Old 04-26-2012, 04:49 PM
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Oh, yeah. I just got to looking at it. There's coolant ALL over down there. Yup. Water pump without a doubt is toast. I'll order one tomorrow.

Anybody know what size the nut is on the fan clutch? It looks like a 2" or so. Also, the fan shroud sticker says it's got right-hand threads.
Edit: After some reading, it appears that a special tool is required... Is that right? I see some people prefer to use air chisels on the corner of the nut, but I don't know so much about hat method. Not only do I not have access to those tools, but it just seems sketchy to me.

Any other tips on how to tackle this project? I've never done a water pump before.
 
  #18  
Old 04-26-2012, 05:16 PM
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Mine is about 1 7/8" / 48 mm. Not the OEM fan clutch but I don't recall it being different.
 
  #19  
Old 04-26-2012, 05:20 PM
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Also, which water pump do I need? There are two different part numbers that depend on the engine serial number. Where can I find the engine serial? Is my 1996 guaranteed to be on one side or the other of the magic over/under serial number (201680)?

Edit: RockAuto only offers me the water pump for 201681 and up serial numbers for my 1996. That sound right?
Edit2: That would be part number 2C3Z8V501BA.
 
  #20  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:00 PM
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I don't know about the part numbers. The way I got my clutch loose was with a 1 7/8 wrench (I think that is right, may be 1 3/4) and hit it with a handheld sledge hammer to shock it loose. Redneckish but it worked. Put some cardboard behind your radiator to protect it when you start working on it. Parts stores I think will rent out the proper tool, not positive though.
 
  #21  
Old 04-26-2012, 06:12 PM
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Okay, I can borrow wrenches that size. Hitting the wrench with the hammer is a redneck trick that I am comfortable with. Hitting the nut itself with an air chisel is a little much for me.
 
  #22  
Old 04-26-2012, 09:45 PM
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I guess my way was real redneck. I had a really large chisel and hit it with a hammer.

I defiantly second the cardboard, don't ask me how I know! Maybe you don't know, maybe you do but the fan and the shroud come out together, that's the only way you can do it.
 
  #23  
Old 04-26-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
I don't know about the part numbers. The way I got my clutch loose was with a 1 7/8 wrench (I think that is right, may be 1 3/4) and hit it with a handheld sledge hammer to shock it loose. Redneckish but it worked. Put some cardboard behind your radiator to protect it when you start working on it. Parts stores I think will rent out the proper tool, not positive though.
That's the way I did mine. Leave the belt on till you get the fan loose
 
  #24  
Old 04-26-2012, 10:01 PM
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Yeah. I went out and put the old belt back on today. I'm going to order the water pump tonight, so I have to wait on the pump to get here, anyway.

Edit: Whoops, I said "fan" instead of "belt".
 
  #25  
Old 04-26-2012, 10:08 PM
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aww no worries.The air chisel method is the only way to go IF you have one.I have a blunt end bit that I use so no damage is inflicted on the helpless nut.Just use one flat toard the side to turn it loose and zap! they most of the time come loose that way fast. the old wrench type I have found if the sheetmetal type just slip.
Have fun,pm me if I can help here locally and all.
 
  #26  
Old 04-26-2012, 10:27 PM
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I appreciate the offer. I may have to take you up on that if a wrench won't work.
 
  #27  
Old 04-27-2012, 12:01 AM
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I can't find the serial number on my truck. According to my reading, there are three places on the engine that contain the serial number. One is next to the oil filter head on the block. The other is the front end of the HPOP. The last is the sticker on the passenger valve cover. Everything under my truck is pretty well rusted to ****. No chance of seeing a serial number down there. The sticker on the HPOP is gone. Lost to the ages. The only one of these methods that is intact is the passenger valve cover. I cleaned it off all nice and good, but I don't see a serial number on it. Where on that sticker is the serial number. It has all sorts of good information, like brake horsepower and whatnot, but no number that is useful to what I'm looking for. I guess I'm looking for a six digit number, but I'm just not seeing it anywhere on that sticker.

Can somebody please help me, I'm pretty frustrated.
 
  #28  
Old 04-27-2012, 12:23 AM
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Yup. Partsguyed says that both water pumps were available in 1996 depending on engine serial number. Are they interchangeable? Does anyone know? Anyone know where I can find the serial number on the sticker on the valve cover? I've got a seven digit number off of the sticker, and the serial numbers that are referenced for selecting the correct water pump are all six digit numbers.

Where I got the number was a little tiny number on the bottom of the sticker.

Edit: The sticker said it makes 215 horses at 3,000 if that helps us determine which water pump I need to order...
 
  #29  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:00 AM
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I think the difference would be in the thermostat. Short stem as opposed to long stem. IIRC. If you have a long stem stat yours is the latter. Short stem stat the former. Regardless of which stat you have now I would go with the latter. You'll want to put in a new stat anyway. There may be other differences I'm not aware of.
 
  #30  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:26 AM
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But the later one should work, though? As long as it will be compatible is all I'm really worried about. I just want to make sure before I order an expensive part.

Yeah, I believe I'm going to go with the 203 degree thermostat.
 


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