Ben's 65 F250 build(Farm truck to Street truck)
#16
04-04-2013, 08:40 PM
Been having some issues lately, coming to you guys for some trouble shooting. The truck starts up fine the first time but after it gets warm it will not restart. Just cranks and cranks. The stater had gone bad a few months ago so I got one of the blue mini starters off of ebay hoping it would help. Definitely worked good and helped to get it to fire almost immediately on e the first start but did not fix the hot start issue.
I have checked the fuel filter and it is good. The electric pump is putting out the right pressure and when it is hot I am not getting vapor lock. Pulled the fuel line off the carb and put it into a gas can, plenty of fuel coming out. I am thinking maybe got a bad carb from Holley, I know it can happen. Anyone with other ideas to check would be great.
One of the things I am concerned about is the amp gauge in the dash. Sine I upgraded to a 3G alternator and removed the voltage regulator that came on the truck I have noticed that the amp gauge is getting really hot and steaming up every time I run the truck. When the electric fan runs, the gauge gets pegged above 60 amps. Not sure this has anything to do with my hot start issue but I am sure it is not safe to have that heating up so much under the dash. Can I bypass this gauge completely or swap it with a voltage gauge that can handle the higher voltage and amperage that the new alternator is putting out? Will a new gauge slide into the hole already there or are the Ford gauges a unique size?
I have been searching for answers online but have not found a definite answer. You guys are the best for this so I come to you.
I have checked the fuel filter and it is good. The electric pump is putting out the right pressure and when it is hot I am not getting vapor lock. Pulled the fuel line off the carb and put it into a gas can, plenty of fuel coming out. I am thinking maybe got a bad carb from Holley, I know it can happen. Anyone with other ideas to check would be great.
One of the things I am concerned about is the amp gauge in the dash. Sine I upgraded to a 3G alternator and removed the voltage regulator that came on the truck I have noticed that the amp gauge is getting really hot and steaming up every time I run the truck. When the electric fan runs, the gauge gets pegged above 60 amps. Not sure this has anything to do with my hot start issue but I am sure it is not safe to have that heating up so much under the dash. Can I bypass this gauge completely or swap it with a voltage gauge that can handle the higher voltage and amperage that the new alternator is putting out? Will a new gauge slide into the hole already there or are the Ford gauges a unique size?
I have been searching for answers online but have not found a definite answer. You guys are the best for this so I come to you.
Went to Oregon for a project once, Willamette unless there is a Willimina ? The humidity and hours until full daylight were unreal!! Was Nov. Beautiful Country Side though!! I did enjoy the scenery and the people.
#17
04-11-2013, 11:50 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Eugene
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I do have a 1 inch spacer under the Carb. It is the strangest thing. I think it might be time to take it to a real mechanic to get a professional opinion. I had one look at it and he adjusted the timing a little. He couldn't come up with anything else.
There is a Willamette and a Willimina in the area.
It is very beautiful here.
There is a Willamette and a Willimina in the area.
It is very beautiful here.
#18
04-27-2013, 07:43 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Eugene
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Got the old girl back on the road today. Of course it was a simple fix. The idle adjustment screws were turned out way to far, maybe 5 turns. Now they are 1/2 a turn out and she is running great and will fire right back up after coming to temperature. I had a mechanic friend check it out last fall and he didn't catch that either.
I also pulled the amp gauge and jumped a wire from the starter solenoid to the distribution block so I don't have a dash fire down the road. That thing would get so hot with the 140 amps of the new alternator running through it.
I will pick a voltmeter up down the road. I am assuming the custom cab gauges are 2 1/16th so I can drop an aftermarket one in?
Happy driving out there as the weather comes around.
I also pulled the amp gauge and jumped a wire from the starter solenoid to the distribution block so I don't have a dash fire down the road. That thing would get so hot with the 140 amps of the new alternator running through it.
I will pick a voltmeter up down the road. I am assuming the custom cab gauges are 2 1/16th so I can drop an aftermarket one in?
Happy driving out there as the weather comes around.
#19
05-06-2013, 07:29 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Michigan
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52 gallons fuel capacity?
There are routinely threads discussing options to add to the 16 gallon stock in-cab tank. Are the additional 38 gallons all in one tank on your truck? How is fuel added to it? Hoe is fuel delivered from it? Do you have any pictures? The thread I saw had sll the pics removed. Thanks.
#20
05-06-2013, 07:39 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Eugene
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Sorry, not sure what happened to the pictures.
The truck had the stock tank, a second tank on the driver's side under the bed with a filler neck hole cut low in the side of the bed, the third tank was mounted in the bed on the passenger side in front of the wheel arch. That was the worst one since the filler neck hole was cut right through the chrome molding. I never used the extra tanks and have since removed them. If you are near Eugene, Or. I am sure we could work something out if anyone is interested.
The truck had the stock tank, a second tank on the driver's side under the bed with a filler neck hole cut low in the side of the bed, the third tank was mounted in the bed on the passenger side in front of the wheel arch. That was the worst one since the filler neck hole was cut right through the chrome molding. I never used the extra tanks and have since removed them. If you are near Eugene, Or. I am sure we could work something out if anyone is interested.
#21
07-26-2013, 05:52 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Eugene
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