Brake job; rotor removal necessary?
#1
Brake job; rotor removal necessary?
Hello, I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads.
What's your thoughts guys? Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads.
What's your thoughts guys? Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
#3
I never remove the rotors unless I am replacing. Once the wheels are off you can look at the rotors to determine if they need replacement. If so, then you will need a torque wrench, nut and cotter pin, bearing grease, and the new rotor. I would give it a good look over before starting the pad replacement, that way if you Need all those parts you can get them before the truck is in pieces.
If you do replace the rotor, you have to replace the nut and cotter pin. They are one time use parts.
If you do replace the rotor, you have to replace the nut and cotter pin. They are one time use parts.
#5
Okay, so if I were to need to change a rotor on this truck the bearings are sealed or encased so no need for bearing grease right?
Thanks for the help guys, I am an oil change/tire rotation kinda guy so this is a step up for me. Hoping all goes well.
Thanks for the help guys, I am an oil change/tire rotation kinda guy so this is a step up for me. Hoping all goes well.
#6
If you can catch your fingernail on the top worn edge of the rotor it should be replaced. You can loosen the nut with a breaker bar and pipe. Use your torque wrench to get into the ball park and give it an extra push. You need to lign up the kotter key anyway. Too tight is not so good. It's best to buy rotors and brg assemblies as they come assembled. Maybe a friend or neighbor has done front brake work and can give you a little help with your comfort zone.
#7
Hub replacements
If you have to replace the hubs, check out the Centric's 2 piece replacements. They convert single assembly 4x2 front hubs into 2 piece. It's a replacement hub that uses the 4x4 rotor.
I picked up a set for my 07 Heavy Half that has 7 bolt hubs and saving these for when the time dictates replacing them. First time is pretty much a wash but the following will be considerably cheaper than replacing the entire hub assembly.
I picked up a set for my 07 Heavy Half that has 7 bolt hubs and saving these for when the time dictates replacing them. First time is pretty much a wash but the following will be considerably cheaper than replacing the entire hub assembly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mr. Crab
Excursion - King of SUVs
8
06-05-2017 06:01 PM
AF Mezkin
1997-2006 Expedition & Navigator
4
03-15-2007 11:59 AM
sarverpt
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
2
02-17-2004 07:47 AM