timing jumped, now what? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



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timing jumped, now what?

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Old 04-21-2012, 04:25 PM
Badfunkn Badfunkn is offline
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timing jumped, now what?

so I know eeeeeeverything and I don't need no instruction manual and of course I had to screw something up...

at some point while changing out the timing chain tensioner and chain guides the timing slipped a notch or two. I rotated the engine 360 before putting it back together and nothing binds up, was able to start it but it dies immediately. I've got it all back apart and the manual is telling me to line up the bright marks on the chain with the marks on the cam and crankshaft... well guess what... ain't no marks on my chain. It also said if there were no marks to count the links and mark it at each halfway point and use that to line up the cam and crankshaft. Tried it (61 links btw) but if I go by that the timing jumped by waaaaay more than a notch or two and that just doesn't mesh. So the question is what do I do from here?
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:25 PM
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It's not a mark on the chains that you should look for, it's a discolored link. Usually the link that lines up with the mark on the sprocket is copper colored, as indicated by the circles As in this drawing.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:19 AM
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It's not a mark on the chains that you should look for, it's a discolored link. Usually the link that lines up with the mark on the sprocket is copper colored, as indicated by the circles As in this drawing.
thanks for the reply! I was lucky enough to turn up some detailed instructions on how to set the timing properly, much more instructive than the Haynes manual I wasted money on... Won't be able to get it done until later this afternoon though..

How to set timing marks on 1998 ford 5.4L - JustAnswer
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:36 PM
Badfunkn Badfunkn is offline
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if I'm getting 0 compression on the #1 cylinder what are the odds my valves aren't bent? , the chain slipped more than a notch, more like 2 links....
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:56 PM
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Odd are it retarded and the valve is OK. I always liked to lock the crankshaft in place so it doesn't turn so easy. Than when you unllock it and and turn to top dead center for each cam timing all line up. Turning the crank backward loosens the chain and allows it to sometimes jump a tooth? Really a bugger with belts too. Sometimes holding the cam is good too. You want your light colored links to face you so you can see the timing on the marks of the sprockets.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:57 AM
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Odd are it retarded and the valve is OK. I always liked to lock the crankshaft in place so it doesn't turn so easy. Than when you unllock it and and turn to top dead center for each cam timing all line up. Turning the crank backward loosens the chain and allows it to sometimes jump a tooth? Really a bugger with belts too. Sometimes holding the cam is good too. You want your light colored links to face you so you can see the timing on the marks of the sprockets.
I reset the timing according to the instructions, I should get some sort of compression reading, it's just not there...
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:36 AM
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That does not sound good. But double check. Your cams , make sure you are on compression strokes you know #1 and #5, pistons are starting to head up to top dead center after the intake valve has closed. If a valve is opening you are 180 degrees off. ( TDC ) You know also if the whole bank is down/no compression. Turn engine over by hand only, you can feel if it hits if you are careful and back it back off some. Clund ker chunk is very bad with the starter engaged.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:47 AM
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That does not sound good. But double check. Your cams , make sure you are on compression strokes you know #1 and #5, pistons are starting to head up to top dead center after the intake valve has closed. If a valve is opening you are 180 degrees off. ( TDC ) You know also if the whole bank is down/no compression. Turn engine over by hand only, you can feel if it hits if you are careful and back it back off some. Clund ker chunk is very bad with the starter engaged.
yeah I rotated the engine several times by hand, no knock and no hang-ups, that's what's got me stumped. I'm going to try again and see if I got this backwards...
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:53 AM
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Making sure your pistons are down from top dead center allows you to turn the cams, seeing the timing of the valves, to make sure you are on the intake/compression strokes for each bank. The more cams the trickier it is. And then you got vibration shafts in some motors to do also. They got their own little belts. LOL
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:35 PM
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if I'm getting 0 compression on the #1 cylinder
Just #1 and not 2, 3, & 4, or is #1 the only one you checked?
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:58 PM
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Making brackets to hold the camshafts from moving?
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:34 PM
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stick a fork in her, she's done, timing was set right. C'est la vie. I guess have an excuse to go get that F350 Crew Cab Super Duty I've been drooling over anyone want a gently used...... cough... cough... Expedition for parts?
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:21 PM
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Well at least pull the heads, it might not be that bad. Unless a hole exists. Even new heads aren't that big a deal. By the way, did this motor run before you started the repair? Believe bank 1 cam timing is at 12 oclock lookign down the plain of the pistons to the crank, while bank 2 is 11 oclock looking down the plain of its pistons to the crankshaft while the crank mark is straight down bottom on #1 compression TDC. It's easy to miss these when you rotate the crank to pull the slack out of the chains puttint it together one bank at a time.
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