I installed the 2" lift blocks on my 2001 F250 2wd and rotated the camber bushings myself to get the wheels somewhat up/down and not leaning out/in so it would drive halfway decent when I brought it to get tires and an alignment.

I then had new tires and an alignment done and now the tops of the tires are leaning out ever so slightly. Is this "normal" or to spec?

Anybody know the spec for camber?

Come to think of it it looks like it did when I dropped it off. Looks like they didn't touch the camber at all but did align it. Shop says all is OK...

Anybody know what the "spec" is for camber? Are the tops supposed to lean out ever so slightly so that as the suspension goes up/down with the bumps in the road the tire stays near 0* throughout the swing? Make sense?

 

zero degrees is typical for a 4x4. Not sure exactly what it should be for your 2x4, BUT if you can notice the wheels showing positive camber, I can bet it is way too much. It is virtually impossible to "eyeball" an alignment. Did the shop give you a print out with the before and after? I have mi front end at I think -0.5 +/- camber, 0.0* toe in, and right caster is 4.0* I think and left is 3.0*. I don't recall the specs exactly but a cross caster of -.05* should be close. Keep in mind that most GOOD alignments will cost around $80+++. If you get a shop to do it for much cheaper than that, they most likely just set the toe in and that's it.

 

Just had mine aligned after putting 2" level lift on my 2wd.
Alignment shop installed new camber bushings that made the wheels sit level. The old stock bushings were unusable due to the lift. They showed me the ones they put in and my stock ones. Actually there was a big difference between the two!

 

Here are the specs out of the '02 Specifications Manual

 

The shop should have installed dual axis bushings. Here is a pic of mine after my leveling kit install and allignment.

 

I'll have to bring this to a "good" shop then. The wheels are definitely out more at the top than the bottom.

I got a set of the dual axis bushings too. Just need to find a shop.

 

I have noticed with mine since I got it aligned with the new bushings, that I get a single "clunk" only in reverse and if I'm turning my wheels. Any ideas on that?

 

I going through this issue as we speak. I have had my alignment done twice and cant get it the way it should be. Ref the clunk, I too have that issue and narrowed it down to my tie rod ends. Once I turn the wheel, at a certain point, the tie rod pops. Travel up and down. I am going to replace all tie rods ends and see what happens since I had already replaced the ball units.

If I was to guess, our 4x2 trucks aren't meant to be lifted. I think it throws off the i beam's and radius arms from their neutral position.

My current alignment, the wheels are close to straight up and down.

 

Well technically you are correct when you say it throws the I beam and radius arms off. But with a 2inch lift on a 2wd it really isn't an issue. But when you are going 4inch or more it really comes into play. Because like you said it is important to keep the i beam's and radius arms in neutral position or you get bump steer and high speed wobble.
Here is a kit I helped a friend install a few years backs. lift kits
Personally I think it silly to be lifting a 2wd drive 4 or 6 inchs but to each their own. My friend did it just so he could put big tires on.
Now I would like to bring the front end of my 2wd F350 up to bring it just alittle short of level. So if and when I tow heavy it is level.

And for you guys looking for a good alignment shop. There are 2 important factors. 1: The tech doing the alignment. 2: Find a shop that has a Hunter alignment machine that is less than 5yrs old and ask how offen they actually calibate the machines. Most alignment shops are "Toe and Go" shops. And always tell them up front you want a print out. Sorry for going on but when I was a younger man alignments was something I took pride in doing.

 

I did the leveling kit 2.5 I took it to alignment and they said they can't adjust the chambers because it will hit the knuckle and be unsafe I would like to get it decently straight so it's not wearing me tires any suggestions?

 

I know this is an old post. I've run into the same issue. what did you end up doing?