It is great to know that this swap is complete. I hope that you didn't mind but I made a request to make this thread a link inside a sticky in the dentside forum. I'm sure that it will be helpful to those in that forum that have these same motors in those trucks.

 

I don't mind at all, but aren't you afraid the extra page or two might put them off a bit?

Actually, I've thought I'd write a true how-to but haven't found the time. But, if someone really wants to do this swap then s/he should be willing to spend the time to read the whole thread. Otherwise s/he is likely to repeat the same things I did.

 

I know this has everything regarding this swap. But, until the new write up is done... I'm sure this will have to suffice.

 

Sorry, I have not got around to making a "how to" thread. Whenever I think about it I don't have the time. I really should soon before I forget some of the details.

The only problems I'm having with mine is with the clutch release bar. It isn't lined up correctly between the release bracket on the frame and the bracket on the engine. That said, this issue is unique to my truck because the bracket on the engine side of mine was broken & I was in a hurry and pached it back together. One other problem I'm having is the zf5 that I have has become really difficult to get into reverse.

In the next few weeks I will pull the tranny out to fix the reverse issue and the clutch release bar. While I'm back in there I will be able to see the wear patterns and I will take more pictures to share. I did a really poor job of documenting this swap which is part of the reason I haven't made a how to post to help others in their swaps.

If I had it to do over again, I probably would have also just done a 460 swap at the same time with a late model fuel injected 460 and been done with it.... But I do love my TMI 400!

By the way... Good job Gary!

 

Thanks! Hard to get into reverse? You are taking about my ZF - right? Some times it doesn't quite go into Reverse and all I get when I come out in the clutch is grinding gears. Most of the time when that happens it will go in on the next try, but occasionally I will have to put it in 1st and roll the truck forward just a bit to get it to go in. So, I am really REALLY interested in what you find. I'm guessing it is the synchros and that a rebuild would fix it. I've had the side covers off and the gears themselves look new.

On the release bar bracket, did a stock bracket from another manual tranny work for you? Mine is a home-made monstrosity that the PO made and I need to replace it at some point.

 

No sir, I was only referring to my zf being hard to get into reverse. I didn't know you have had the same issues. Mine is getting really bad, sometimes it will grind or pop out of Rev as I ease the clutch out, but it shouldn't be hard to fix, other than all the work required to get the tranny out & back in. Just gets really annoying when in situations where I can't pull forward and roll the truck into reverse.

I used all stock clutch release parts on mine, other than moving the rod to the opposite side of the zbar like you did, but I used a heim joint.

It took me two nights to read thru your post.. phew! That was a LOT of information!

It will be very interesting to see what I find when I pull it all back apart since my method was so different than yours.

1. I used the LUK HD 460 clutch and pressure plate for an '89 F250/460 and drilled my flywheel to fit it.

2. I have fenderwell exit headers, sure made for a lot more room and caused zero of the issues you had due to your exhaust. After reading all the posts related to just this issue I would strongly recomend to anyone else doing this swap to strongly consider the fenderwell exit headers.

3. I did not space my flywheel out, although I did strongly consider it & I even had an aluminum spacer made that would have moved the flywheel 0.25". These are commonly used in certain racing applications with 302's in the circle track croud. The reasons I chose not to go this route was due to all the extra work it created just to gain a little more spline engagement.

I would like to let everyone know that my motor is not your every day run of the mill 400 Ford. It is a fairly serious build w/Aussie heads and lots of goodies built by TMI. Estimated power is 370HP, 460TQ.... and it has been driven hard, maybe even abused a little burning up tires, playing in the mud, pulling trailers, etc. You even mentioned in this thread about me breaking my D44, but it is true that they really aren't that hard to break. haha!

So all that said, at least in my application having less spline engagement on the clutch hasn't created a problem..... that I'm aware of. My thought process was similar to bolt threads.... if you can strip three threads you can strip 20.

Ok, last thing... That picture you posted waaaay back of the aftermarket zbar.... it was black & shiny & had what looked like bearings for the pivot brackets... what was that for or from? Something like that would be the cat's meow!

Having OD is awesome, eh?

 

Having OD is certainly awesome. I'm leaving on Tuesday with the truck for a 3,000 mile odyssey from OK to DE and back, and I'll be cruising at 70 for the most part. Without the OD I don't think I would be doing that.

Could you repost the picture of the z-bar you are asking about? I don't remember it right off.

I'm glad the swap is working well for you. And it must be pretty stout if it is holding up to that kind of power. Wow! I'll bet that engine is a delight to drive.

By the way, do you have a lot of slack in the driveline? I have to be careful on shifts or I get a big clunk. I've been through the t-case, driveshaft, and rear axle but can't find it.

 

I'm some what new to your thread and have come to the conclusion that with my finances I'll probably could'nt afford to do the same swap that you have done,but. I have a 89 351w with a zf 42 plus a 78 400m. I was wondering if I would be going through all the machining and parts matching that you did if I put the 400 crank in the windsor. If I understood right, I can keep using the fly wheel, clutch, release bearing, internal slave cylinder. The biggest problem I'll face is the trans shaft being long enough to fit into the pilot bearing. I'll be replacing the slave cylinder this week and will take measurements of everything I can measure, even if it isn't needed. That way next month when I split my 78 400/435 4spd, I can measure everything and make a comparison chart. Or am I going to have to follow the same recipe that you created as to adapters, parts etc. Thank you for all the work that you have done to create this thread as it has allready prevented me from making a mistake that I could'nt afford. It won't be until thursday that I split the 351w/zf 42. If you need more info I'll be able to give it to you at that time as I'll keep the unit's split for a day or 2. Sincerely Perry

 

Your '78 400 has a Lima bellhousing pattern
The '89 351 has a Windsor bellhousing pattern.
The two are not really compatable.
You need a ZF from behind a 460 to mate with a 351M/400.

 

Aye ArdwrknTrk, I see your glasses work as well as mine do at this time of day, LoL. The question wasn't if I can mount a small block transmission to a 335 big block. It was "if I put the 400 crank into the 351 w, in other words make it a stroker, am I going to have to go through all of the work that Mr. Lewis went through". I'm hoping, hah ha, that the Ford motor gods look kindly upon this idea and let it happen. Don't worry about the eye sight, I'm deaf in one ear and tired of listening with the other. Have a good day.

 

You're right Perry, I'm pretty blind when I get up.
Maybe it's just the wall of text...

I know nothing about the crank flange depth in relation of the block face of the Windsor vs the 335.

Good luck and please keep us informed.

 

I'm right there with Jim - no idea about the measurement differences on the two cranks. In fact, I've not read about installing the 400 crank in a 351W block, but I would assume that you have and already have an idea of what issues others have found. Where they able to bolt small-block manual transmissions up w/o problems? If so, I don't see why the ZF5 wouldn't bolt there as well.

But, what is the advantage to a 400 crank in a Windsor over a stroker crank for a Windsor? The latter would presumably let you bolt the tranny up using stock Windsor components.

 

Just a mix 'n match stroker from what I can tell...

You've got to remember that when these engines were in production there weren't a lot of companies like Scat, Probe and Ohio Crankshaft around selling Chinese castings and forgings.

 

True. I did a bit of searching and most of what I found was from 10 years ago. But, even then the guys were saying it cost them $750 to have a 400 crank machined and balanced to fit a Windsor, and were strongly recommending going with a Scat or somesuch instead.

 

Doesn't make a lot of sense if you can buy a 4.00" stroke crank that's meant for a Windsor @ well under $500