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  #1  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:09 AM
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Common Modifications:

Here you go gents, a place or you to attach your really great ideas.
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:13 AM
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Common mods

Let me start off by saying thanks to those who have helped me with the mods I have done. *D8chumley, Pool Runner, 04XLT, and a few others.

Next I will say that most of my parts and accessories were purchased on eBay, amazon, JC Whitney, crutchfield, .allelectronics.com *Most of these were found much cheaper then retail. *Now all mods are done on my own and I accept no responsibility for any issues you may encounter by doing these mods. *You accept full responsibility and liability for anything or mod you do to your own vehicle. *This is just a guide as to assist others on how and what mods I have done on my own personal vehicle. *That being said, *I use the proper tools and connectors, wire, loom, and heat shrink for all electrical mods. *Just to be sure of avoiding any electrical problems.

The first mod I did was the*
LED mirror mod. *2011FX2Crazy did a great job and write up on this mod and therefore I will not steal his thunder. *The only thing I would add to this mod is that for those of you like me who do not have puddle lights.... There is a round cap on bottom of the mirror that is easily popped off to access the wiring. *The link to that write up is here.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...irror-mod.html
-------------------------------------

USB2 mod

This mod was very simple and actually very beneficial. *The adapter I used was 1.36 shipped from amazon.com.*
Amazon.com: HDE USB A Female to 5-Pin Male Adapter: Computers & Accessories

First in the tray on top of dashboard. Pry up the rubber mat that will expose 2 8mm bolts. *Remove the bolts and the tray will lift and slide towards the windshield and out of its spot. *The existing sync USB cable is plugged in right there on top of everything. *Next to it is an open 5pin mini USB port. *Plug the adapter into that port. *Then (I used an apple charging cable for my setup) plug a regular USB cable into the adapter. *
Open the glove box and empty it out. *Lightly push in on both sides. *The glove box will open fully and be out of the way. *Place a flashlight pointing up towards the open dash and then from the top fish the USB cable down to the flashlight. *No cutting is necessary. *Put the glove box in reverse of removing it. *And place cable in existing notch in back of box. *Usb2 is now done. *Reassemble the dash tray in reverse order. *Turn on truck and press media button. *And say "USB 2". Sync should recognize and respond USB 2. *Plug in your device and enjoy.

Note USB and USB 2 are both recognized and usable after mod.
-------------------------------------

Sound system,

I used all Rockford Fosgate components and I like them. *You can use any component brand you prefer and mix and match too.

I use two 10in subs P1's (actually the same ones I used in my super duty) the sub box I found on eBay and fits under the rear seats. *I had to remove the jack and jack mount. *3, 10mm bolts. *Note: put bolts back in as there is an annoying rattle from underneath if you do not do this.
The amp I used is a Rockford Fosgate (RF) 340 watts mono amp. *Placed it under the front passenger seat. *Ran the wiring under the carpet to front fuse panel for the door speaker tie in, and main power wire thru a grommet to battery, and under the carpet to the rear seat for the subs. *Bridged them and they sound great.

The door speakers I used RF prime 1682. *6x8 speakers they work for front and rear perfectly for the scab, (D8chumley used same speakers and apparently the screw rear need be shimmed and work fine)

Now crutchfield *sends a door panel tear down and installation guide with their speakers as well as the wiring harness adapters. *If need be I can load that info on here but in the name of time and space I will not duplicate the work. *No special tools were needed for instal other then a hook to pull the piece from behind the door handle to expose the bolt. *I used a 6.00 o-ring tool to hook and remove the piece.
-------------------------------------

Recon Big Rig amber running/flasher lights

I purchased these on eBay. *The lights come with very good detailed instructions and everything you need for a nice complete instal. *To include terminal connectors and wire loom already on the wiring.

You will need to drill 6 holes per side in the rocker panel below the doors. *I used silicone to seal the holes from water and dirt, by dipping the self taping screws in the silicone prior to securing the light strip brackets. *

The light strips come in 2 lengths. *I purchased the longer set of 60in for my scab. *Carefully measure and center on the truck where you would like the strips prior to removing the running bars. *Once you have decided on placement. *Remove the running boards or bars and drill the holes. *Place the brackets on the light strip, wiring towards the front of truck. *Dip the screws in the silicone and screw the light strip in place. *

Now run the wiring up behind the wheel well and route it to the headlight. *Remove the headlight.... 3 8mm bolts hold the light in and then two clips. *2 bolts on top of the light, and one behind the rubber flapping placed behind the grill. *Then pull on the head light straight forward to release the clips. *Remove all 3 wiring harnesses from rear of light assembly. *Noting which one is used for the flashers. *The recon wiring is nicely labeled for you which wire is which. Running, flasher, and fused ground. Use the supplied T-connectors to tap the trucks wiring harness. *(note for the maker light mod I also used the passenger side same harness to tap into the running lights and ground. *This is a good time to do this mod if you choose to, as to not have to remove the headlight assembly again.)

Test your lights function again and reassemble and zip tie your wiring to secure it. *Repeat on other side.
-------------------------------------

Recon rear tail lights trip. *
Again purchased on eBay. *This particular light strip is 60in long has 60 red LEDs and 60 white for the reverse function. *The instructions are very complete and easy to follow. *2 types of wiring install. *Either use the four prong trailer plug and hard wire the white reverse light or hard wire entire light. *I choose to hardwiring entire light. *Easiest way is to remove the spare tire and above this all the wires are easily accessible at the tow package plug in for the harness.*
-------------------------------------

Marker lights

I purchased 8 of these lights on eBay. *The lights have a sealed 2 diode light with a removable chrome bezels. *I purchased the mounting hardware Phillips head bolts with flat washer and nylock nuts at ace hardware. *2 for each light.

I carefully measured and marked where each light was to be mounted on the lower cowling below from bumper. *There is a small lip that curves down and fits the lights nicely. *I first mounted the center light and then work outward from there. *Ran the wiring through the bumper and T-tapped each light positive and ground to the wiring and then up to the passenger side where the headlight assembly is removed to access the running light harness. *Lights were set in a 3 in the center and one on either side of truck. *Lights come on with running lights and stay on when headlights are on. *These do not flash.

The wiring is easy as the open hole for CAC of the Ecoboost makes for easy access.
-------------------------------------

Rear tire marker lights.

Same lights used as for front marker lights only removed the chrome bezel. *
On Inside of rear wheel well where the bed sides are seated to the bed floor there is a crease that hangs down about 1/2 inch. *Centered over tire I drilled and mounted the lights. *Ran the wires from passenger side to driver side through the square channel used to strengthen bed. *Once both lights were wired I ran the wiring to the rear of truck and tapped into the license plate light for power and ground. *This activates the lights when running lights are turned on. *The lights really serve little functional use. *But make a cool amber accent light in the wheel well. *(obviously I like LED lights)
-------------------------------------

Stock cab lights changing to Blue LED.

The kit I purchased was a complete kit. *The website was given to me by 04XLT. *It was 39.00 for the kit the blue lights give a cool ambiance over the stock white lights.

Super Bright LED Car Interior Lights | Ford F150 SuperCab SuperCrew SMD LED Car Lights

The rear dome is the easiest to remove just pull down on the cover and it pops off. *Remove the light and replace with the LED. reassemble the dome by lining up the tabs and pushing Up

The front is a little unnerving for the novice but easy to do. *Open the sunglasses holders and place thumbs in side. *Work finger tips between the cloth headliner and plastic. *Pull straight down. *Listen for god awful sound that you think you are breaking it. *And then lightly slide fingers around rest of plastic and it will pull straight out. *Unclip both wiring harnesses (2 if you have power rear slider) and entire assembly is in your hands. *Examine the assembly and it's self explanatory to disassemble it. *Remove the 2 bulbs and replace with the LEDs. *Plug in the light wiring harness and check to see the LEDs light up. *If not, reverse the bulb. *(LEDs only work one way). Reassemble and check light and slider function.
-------------------------------------

Switch mount.

I went to home depot and purchased a PVC electrical elbow junction. Cost 3.19. purchased blue LED rocker switches from allelectronics.com. *Removed the two screws on box. *Measured for holes for 5 of the switches to fit. *Drilled with 1/2 bit. *I used a hack saw to cut end opening off of box. *Then used a file and smoothed out the hole. *Electrical tape to cover opening and spray painted box and top black. *

Now my dealer had installed one of their security systems for the truck on the lot. *When they removed it it left two screws under the steering wheel and to the left on the cover. *I measured where the holes were and actually drilled the box and used the two existing screws to mount the box there. This did away with the ugly screws on the cover and gave me an easy accessible place to mount the aux switches.*

I made a wiring harness to hook up all the switches to power and ground. *Also ran four addl wires to go from the switches to relays in the engine bay. *All of the wires run out of the second junction box hole under the dash and along fire wall to fuse box. *Now when making the harness label both ends of the wires or use multiple colored wire for identification. *The power wire for switches was run to fuse box and and the accessory fuse was used. *The ground was connected to a bolt below the steering wheel. *The other 4 wires were run through the firewall to relays.*

(The 5th switch was used in the cab for powering the footwell blue LED strips.)
-------------------------------------

Footwell blue LEDs

Purchased the 12in LED light strips on eBay for a fraction of what pep boys etc. charge for them. *Tested them to ensure they work. *Used an alcohol swab to clean the plastic lip on the cover piece for lower dash below steering wheel and non moving part of glovebox. *Peeled off backing of the light strip to expose the adhesive. And affixed *them on cleaned areas. *Then used the remaining switch from aux box to power the lights. *Ran ground back to the same bolt used for the switches. *

Makes a very nice lit up footwell without affecting night vision. *The mrs. *Likes the mood lighting
-------------------------------------

Center console LED mod

Using same 12in blue LED strip as used for foot wells. *Tested to ensure it worked. *Cleaned center console under the ledge below Coin holder. *Removed backing and stuck strip on cleaned area. *Removed back of console buy pulling straight back and releasing 4 clips exposing 12v power wiring. *Drilled 1/8 hole to run LED wire from inside console to back. *Drilled 1/2in hole for blue LED rocker switch and placed it inside on back of console. *Attached the wires from the strip to the switch and ground of the 12volt power source and same for wiring power to switch.

Now I can open the console and flip switch to illuminate inside of console. *Pushed console backing back on and done. *
-------------------------------------

relays and aux fuse block.

I purchased 4 universal relays and carefully measured the clearance on the side of the engine bay, passenger side behind the shock/lift mount. *Making sure they fit without being hit or affecting the lift open or closed. *Drilled 1/8in holes to mount each relay held by 1/2in self taping screws. *

In front of the good shock mount I mounted an aux fuse block purchased at pep boys for 6.00. *It holds 4 regular blade fuses. *Using 10 gauge wire from battery to fuse block then 12 gauge wires from fuse block to each relay to be the power feed to the accessory. *Wiring the relays is easy. *But here is a reference site to ensure proper wiring.

Using Relays To Wiring Off Road Lights And Accessories
-------------------------------------
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:29 PM
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BigBufud
Thank you very much Fire rooster! you gave me some good ideas and i may just use some of yours!
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:24 PM
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Cool. Glad to hear it. More on the way. Just writing them up now.
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:30 PM
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BigBufud
I cant wait to read it!
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:56 PM
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BigBufud
I'm thinking about getting the recon smoked head and tail lights but am not sure yet.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:36 AM
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Common mods 2

After looking at a few different bumper mounted light bars or prerunner bars. *I decided to go with Smitty Built again. *I had that brand on two of my super duty trucks and the wife's Tacoma. *I really like the fit and not losing the tow hooks, cutting or drilling, and not covering the CAC on the EB.

The Smitty Built was purchased on eBay for 119.00 shipped. *Powder coated black and nice finish. *Very rugged from my past exp with them. *Anyway this one mounts on the 2010-2012 F150 with two large bolts in the front opening of the Bumper. *(don't worry if you have the 5.0 and have a license play holder in the middle it fits around it). *The only tools required are a 15/16 socket and ratchet, and a 15/16 open end wrench. *

Open the hood for access to place the wrench while tightening, place the bolt through the bar and line it up with the matching factory hole in the bumper support. *Then washer and nut. *Repeat on other side. *Tighten them down good. *Install complete. *You are ready for lights to be mounted.

-------------------------------------


Rear bumper mounted LED spotlights

Many times it is nice to have lighting at the back of your truck. *Hooking up a trailer, backing up at night, for me it is retrieving my boat in the dark. *Just hooking them up to the reverse light doesn't work for me as leaving my truck in reverse on the boat ramp to get the boat is not a good idea.... *

I used one of the switches in the cab through the relay under the hood. *Ran Powys wiring down behind the front fender well and along the frame to the rear bumper. *I used PIAA LED driving lamps for the rear. *Mounted 4 of them on the bumper. *Had to drill 2, 1/8in holes for each light to mount them. *Self tapping screws with silicone to secure them. *Wired them in and instant light! *Now I can turn them*On and off by a switch rather then the reverse gear of the truck.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:03 PM
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BigBufud
I really like the light bar idea.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:51 AM
Dave Tyler Dave Tyler is offline
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Looking for Heavy Duty Shocks for 2011 F150 4 x 4 (rear). I pull a tongue pull 32' travel trailer. Any ideas and sources is appreciated. Thanks. Dave
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:15 PM
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Exhaust: I went to an exhaust shop and had them cut my stock muffler off and install an 18" Magnaflow in place of it. They had to add a little bit of pipe to it , but I retained the factory single tailpipe. And boy, does it sound good. It also has the stock exhaust appearance all for about $160.00. 2010 F-150 R/C STX 4.6L
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glincecum View Post
Exhaust: I went to an exhaust shop and had them cut my stock muffler off and install an 18" Magnaflow in place of it. They had to add a little bit of pipe to it , but I retained the factory single tailpipe. And boy, does it sound good. It also has the stock exhaust appearance all for about $160.00. 2010 F-150 R/C STX 4.6L
Did the same to my 2006 5.4L. When I got the 11 eco, sold 06 to my son. I still love hearing him leave the house!!!! It gives a good mellow rumble.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:30 AM
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One mod I have wanted to do was converting a Raptor's grille lights for a normal F150's grille.

anyone done that or swapped out the entire grille?
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:24 PM
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Has anyone added a second battery for a travel trailer. The trailer stays on property up north, so I can’t just leave it there. Besides I have no electricity run to the property, so 12V DC power is a must for me. I know how to wire the isolator switch, but would like to know where the secondary battery can be housed. In my old truck (1997 F250 with a cap) I had it set up in the bed. I just purchased a 2012 F150 that I am outfitting and would like to see if there is a better location Thank you in advance fficeffice" />>>

Last edited by Glen Ellison; 11-06-2012 at 03:26 PM. Reason: gramer
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:44 PM
phbredneck phbredneck is offline
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why would"nt I do the same for my 2012 ecoboost, 18'' magnaflow muffler?
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by phbredneck View Post
why would"nt I do the same for my 2012 ecoboost, 18'' magnaflow muffler?
I too am interested in a good sounding exhaust for my EB.....Heart throb maybe?
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:19 PM
 
 
 
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