Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Non-Turbo Power

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  #31  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:20 PM
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Try the specter filter it's half the price of k&n
 
  #32  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:20 PM
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oh was that the guy who went sky high beyond what any normal street truck will see? i remember that.that was him?
dang.we need more dyno tests.off/on unlocked/on locked.....hint,hint '91 for next time.
 
  #33  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:25 PM
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next dyno day one of us will try it

IDI On Beans Diesel Performance Dyno - YouTube
 
  #34  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:28 PM
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Nice to see some actual info on e-fans, I'm curious about your engine setup, the water pump specifically. Mine is located on the bottom left, and I've seen a few on top recently.
Thinking moving it up, and converting to serpentine, a little less resistance and much easier to only carry one spare vs several.
I'm looking to eliminate my AC unit as well, I've only used it twice for a combined total of like 30 minutes over two years, it seems like it would be in the same general family as the mechanical fan removal.
 
  #35  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:29 PM
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Eh whatever man, do what youre doin im just trying to help, yes i paraphrased instead of going back and multi quoting everything.. sue me.
 
  #36  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:50 PM
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[QUOTE=Bonanza35;11723244]
Originally Posted by RCrawler
The turbo is very simple in design and function. If it is in good condition, it should give you miles of trouble free service.

When it comes down to it, most of the mods that can be done to increase the performance of a NA aren't going to amount to much. You're still limited to atmospheric pressure. A turbo is the best bang for the buck. You can find systems as cheap as $400-500.

I want one for that price. I have an e99 system laying around and was going to try and fit that in there. Turn me on to one of these if you find it. I would aprciate it.

Chet
How about a warrantied complete used ATS system from a wrecking yard for $600? Might be able to get it for $500.

I see a lot of turbos on Craigslist for cheap. You just have to constantly watch and be ready to buy. They go fast.

Jason
 
  #37  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:13 AM
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Jason, I just didn't know they were out there. I have an 86 e350 van w/6.9 . I have to change the IP because it is low on power. But if that come with everything and it will fit, I mit just give it a try. Its a work van but it set alot. Only has 126K on the clock. I just started here on the pre power stroke section. I've been in the 99 to 03 section.

Chet
 
  #38  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:17 AM
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Not sure if if would fit a van. But if you're interested, PM me and I'll give you the contact info to the place.

Jason
 
  #39  
Old 04-18-2012, 01:38 PM
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I will dyno one of my idi's without the clutch fan, but dirtydiesel will hopefully beat me to it. Mine is taking to long to get done and I want to see some real clean cut numbers.

I forgot to mention the cam, that is going to be the best in overall n/a improvement as harry said. I have one ordered as well, get those guys on the ball Russ!
 
  #40  
Old 04-18-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 86f250XLT-4x4
Try the specter filter it's half the price of k&n
Hi, do you have a part number? I need a filter. This sounds good to me.
 
  #41  
Old 04-18-2012, 03:49 PM
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I just go to the auto parts store and have them look it up.... Not sure if they make the large round one for our trucks.... When I get my truck done its gonna have a custom intake box so I'm not gonna buy a nice filter for mine... I will talk to my buddy at the parts store see if I can get a part number for you!
 
  #42  
Old 04-18-2012, 05:05 PM
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A clutch fan stealing horsepower is way over rated...When the motor is running a clutch fan freewheels most of the time a diesel only runs 3000rpms max 85% of the time the only way one would steal real horsepower is when your turning 6000 rpm's and even then they wont turn 6000rpms anyway.

On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to sve energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

The fan clutch also reduces noise by slowing down or disengaging the fan at high way speeds, and some even help speed engine warm up during cold weather.
The non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch doesn't have a temperature sensing capability. It reacts only to speed, slipping to limit maximum fan speed to about 1200 to 2200 rpm depending on the application.

Troubleshoot Cooling Fan Clutch
 
  #43  
Old 04-18-2012, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Brant Bowrifle
I will dyno one of my idi's without the clutch fan, but dirtydiesel will hopefully beat me to it.
if you do it,to save time,the most important info would be between unlocked and locked.
if you just warm her up once for your first pull with the fan clutch unlocked,and then block the rad off with a sheet of cardboard and wait till she locks up then make your other pull before temps raise up on ya,we'll have the most important info right there.
another with it completely off would be cool too yeah! but,that's asking a lot of work for that not so important info anyway.

it's really for those of us hauling and or towing heavy in hilly terrain.
i know i feel nothing at all with the dual e-fans on high pulling a grade,and this is not what users with stock mechanical fans feel.so we know it's doing something.clearly my truck with e-fans has more power left to take me up the hill than a same truck with a locked up fan.knowing exactly how much would really be nice to know.
most importantly imho,would be 3kish rpm.that's when she's loaded up with pedal to the medal screaming at max gross up grade.
 
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