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Hi all, After much research and internet time, I have finally found what I believe to be a cure for my front end wobble. I have the wobble worst on the passenger side at about 46 mph. I have an axle pivot bracket loose, worn pivot bushings, and had treated (I thought) the old girl to a bearing pack and tire rotation the week before this all happened. Turns out, the combination of different tire/worn components is causing this wobble in my case.
What I'm looking for is some guidance. A trusted front end shop in my area said he sees this problem often and supplements the tightening of the bracket bolts with welding of the bracket to the subframe. Is this a good idea? I could only find one post related to welding these brackets and it didn't sound like that person thought it was a good idea. I need ideas on how to stabilize the front end. Looking for a permanent fix, or should I just keep tightening the bolts and inspecting regularly. I know I can count on good info and real world experience here on the forum. Thanks in advance!!
Is there any specific reason you wouldn't want to weld on these brackets? They wouldn't be welded on so solidly that they would never come off. If I wasn't at least a little hesitant, I wouldn't have posted to the board. I have Nylon lock nuts on the holes that I can use them on. The passenger side bracket has 2 bolts that go in along the longitudinal axis of the vehicle that have a special retainer on the heads as well as a knurled surface that seats into the frame crossmember. Is it kosher to replace these with grade 8 fasteners and locknuts? I probably won't weld on these brackets now that some members have wieghed in on the matter. I can always count on you guys to provide good info. Thanks much!
I welded to my frame for my traction bars before I knew what I know now. It can take the temper out of that steel where its a hardened piece if done incorrectly with out the proper strengthening and fill metal.
Bolts are easier in my a opinion and much less chance of fire.
__________________ Jeffrey 2002 F250 Sport 7.3 Stroke BTS Auto, Adrenaline HPOP, 160cc Singles, RR Fuel, Banks IC, Van charger w/ATS housing, Studs, Crower rods, Gearhead Tunes 1996 F250 7.3 Stroker 5spd Cobalt Pyro and Boost, Gearhead Tunes, 6637, 3" dp to 5" tailpipe, SD electric fuel, SD AD's, T500 HPOP, DIY Coolant Bypass Filter, 3'' plenums, Intercooler waiting for some tubes & time, Valair Kevlar/Ceramic Single Disk. 2008 Escape XLS 4wd 2.3 4cyl. WIFES
I agree with everyone else, I wouldn't weld the brackets. I'd say some of the other worn parts contributed to the bolts loosening up. Get all the other stuff taken care of and new bolts with red loctight, and you should be good to go..........unless, the bolt holes in the brackets or crossmember are wallowed out, then you may have to drill em all one size bigger and use one bigger size grade 8 bolts to make everything fit snug.
I did not realize the crossmember was a tempered piece. I whole heartedly agree with you guys now that welding may not be the best idea. I know the bolt holes are not elongated, so I will be heading to get some grade 8 hardware, red loctite and a crate of patience to crank these things down again. Then I'll be ready to do the axle pivot bushings when they arrive later in the week. Thanks again to all of you for your help and time. This is the BEST site, hands down, for working on our POWERSTROKES!!
the brackets are cast metal, and will not stick if welded. you will need different heat settings for both metals, and different rods for both metals. the only thing welding is going to do is ruin the bracket and cross member.
__________________
Tom
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