I need to raise my rear suspension by 2" to level my truck. I want to keep it simple and am thinking of adding a 2" block of material to the existing lift block. I would fully weld the pieces together. I have the stock 4"ish lift blocks so this would make for a 6" block. I know axle wrap would be the concern., how much of a problem could this be? I can also taper the block to account for drive angle change, if needed that wouldn't be a problem.

'88 Crew Cab F350. Previous owner installed 4" lift springs on the front. He said rear has F450 springs. SRW. The rear just rides a little lower.

Thanks for the help

 

technically you can, you would need longer ubolts, but that tall of blocks just doesnt look good. Have you considered a shackle flip and a smaller block?

Just not a fan of this.

 

Yeah i guess i need to think about how it's going to look. Shackle flip is way too much work for this. The other option i would consider is an add a leaf but i would prefer not to remove the springs from the truck. Everthing is rusty. New ubolts either way since i will be cutting the ones off.

 

Shackle flip really isnt that hard, i would say no harder than building a set of blocks and installing them. Did mine in about an hour. In my honest opinion, i wouldnt run over a 4" block, i have a 2" and i have axle wrap problems. I would be looking at a set of lifted springs, or air bags. However air bags, like add-a-leafs, will take away from the ride... alot.

 

Hmm. Can you do the shackle flip without removing the u-bolts? Just flip em with rear axle and springs together?

 

Undo the shackles at the hangers. Swap them side to side and reconnect the shackles. I don't think there is much more to it than that.

Jason

 

I would never stack blocks, let alone stack them to get 6 inches of lift. I know you are trying to get the truck level inexpensively but stacking blocks isn't the way.

 

Yes, I think I've abandoned the idea of adding to the lift blocks. Looks like the hanger swap is the way to go. Are there any other problems I need to consider with that? I've read about the axle moving forward requiring a driveshaft shortening when using the SKY shackle kit. Does this happen when simply swapping the factory shackle hangers too? Why would people buy the SKY kit if they can just swap the factory hangers? I have also read about load capacity reduction, is this significant? I don't tow or haul heavy loads anyway so I think it's the best option regardless.

 

there are companies that make zero lift blocks, dont know why they call them zero, they lift an inch. Well they are for offsetting your spring back or forward an inch or so.

You can get heavyduty shackles that are cross tied.

 

cool, yeah I think i may get new stock hangers anyways cause things are a little rusty. they are cheap compared to the effort of doing the change. I could get stronger shackles at the same time. I will also probably modify or replace my lift blocks (to shorter than 4") because i think the shackle flip will raise the rear end too far. when i change the blocks i can address the taper required for good pinion angle.

 

exactly, I have cut my factory blocks down as required at the same time putting the required angle. works great.

 

does anyone happen to know what size replacement bolts to use? probably 3/8? just so I can have them ready before cutting the hanger off to see what the hole size is.

 

I'd say the biggest hit to load capacity of a shackle flip is you lose you alignment of the overload springs. To get it's use back you would need to remedy that issue or add airbags to compensate for the loss of the overloads. I'm running lift blocks so I can maintain overloads, but I'd love to get rid of the blocks so I'm contemplating a shackle flip with relocating the overload wear pads or adding air bags and on board air.

 

update: I am doing the shackle flip and posting the results here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ts-photos.html