GIFord's starter/solenoid issues
#1
GIFord's starter/solenoid issues
Use a small piece of wire to jump 3 & 5 (small red/blue-stripe wire connects here); the starter should engage and turn the engine over when you do that, see if you can replicate the delays using that method.
My guess would be the solenoid has got bad connections internally (see THIS THREAD for an explanation) but that's only a guess.
My guess would be the solenoid has got bad connections internally (see THIS THREAD for an explanation) but that's only a guess.
Would this test rule out a bad solenoid? Im try to figure out why my 86 E350 will not start. Thanks in advanced.
#2
what it's going to do is allow you to energize the starter solenoid at the solenoid so you can hear where the clicking is coming from.
If you can hang a volt meter on the starter side of the solenoid that would help to. That will tell you if the solenoid is for sure pulling in as soon as you energize it.
If you jump it, it pulls in, and you see 12V right away....then you solenoid is ok.
If you can hang a volt meter on the starter side of the solenoid that would help to. That will tell you if the solenoid is for sure pulling in as soon as you energize it.
If you jump it, it pulls in, and you see 12V right away....then you solenoid is ok.
#3
Thanks Kevin. Ill give it a shot in the morning. Im sort of lost between the ignition and solenoid. The ignition clicks, but the signal wire is not sending power to solenoid. If I jump the solenoid, starter turns. Is there a test, to find a problem with the signal wire? I did find some burnt wires that lead from solenoid to the fuse box. Two black/green wires. Any info is greatly needed and appreciated. Ive got alot to learn on this.
#4
Ok...let me make sure I got this right. You say you have already jumped the solenoid and the starter engaged right away? That's the test that Chris has drawn out in the drawing above. So if you've already done this, then no need to do it again.
You say you are not getting signal to the solenoid from the ignition switch? If so, how did yoiu determine this?
I'm not questioning you, I'm just trying to make sure I understand what you've done already and what the results were.
You say the Ignition clicks? Last I knew was that you were not sure where the clicking was coming from. I'm not sure what you mean by the "ignition clicks". If you know, what exactly is clicking?
If you've got burned wires....that's not good. I'm unaware of any wires that go from the solenoid to the fuse panel to be honest. Which post on the solenod are you referring to that they are connected to? 3, 5 or 6 on Chris's drawing?
You say you are not getting signal to the solenoid from the ignition switch? If so, how did yoiu determine this?
I'm not questioning you, I'm just trying to make sure I understand what you've done already and what the results were.
You say the Ignition clicks? Last I knew was that you were not sure where the clicking was coming from. I'm not sure what you mean by the "ignition clicks". If you know, what exactly is clicking?
If you've got burned wires....that's not good. I'm unaware of any wires that go from the solenoid to the fuse panel to be honest. Which post on the solenod are you referring to that they are connected to? 3, 5 or 6 on Chris's drawing?
#5
The red/blue-stripe wire leads from the ignition switch on the column to the NSS/Clutch switch (if equipped) to the starter solenoid.
Can you be more descriptive about these black/green wires?
Light green/black stripe? Black/light-green stripe? Or something else?
Light green/black stripe is from the headlight dimmer in the floor to the headlight high beams.
Can you be more descriptive about these black/green wires?
Light green/black stripe? Black/light-green stripe? Or something else?
Light green/black stripe is from the headlight dimmer in the floor to the headlight high beams.
#6
Trending Topics
#8
Im sorry, didnt want to start a new thread. The burnt wires are black with yellow strip. Im using a test light in the boot that goes on # 5 in the drawing, and i get nothing. I dont have a service manual so I dont have color codes to help. Ive been trying to search threads, that helps too.
The clicking is coming from the solenoid on the driver side. I dont know if it makes a difference but this is 86 econoline 350 rv. Thank you for the help. I need to get this thing started, before the city sues me,lol.
The clicking is coming from the solenoid on the driver side. I dont know if it makes a difference but this is 86 econoline 350 rv. Thank you for the help. I need to get this thing started, before the city sues me,lol.
#9
Well, I broke out your posts into your own thread.
The book (1981) lists three circuits using black/yellow-stripe:
Circuit 111 Warning lamp to lights on relay
Circuit 225 Injection pump fuel temperature sensor
Circuit 608 Air bag diagnostic module to relay indicator lamp
No idea of the specifics of any of those, nor am I 100% positive this diagram pertains to your 1986 - Ralph would hopefully know for certain.
The book (1981) lists three circuits using black/yellow-stripe:
Circuit 111 Warning lamp to lights on relay
Circuit 225 Injection pump fuel temperature sensor
Circuit 608 Air bag diagnostic module to relay indicator lamp
No idea of the specifics of any of those, nor am I 100% positive this diagram pertains to your 1986 - Ralph would hopefully know for certain.
#10
#11
I would use an ohmmeter to test the switch, it either works or it doesn't AFAIC.
You could temporarily jumper it to bypass it.
For wiring diagrams, look en eBay and places that sell used automotive literature.
Welcome to Lloyd's Automobile Literature is a place I've bought from and have been happy with.
You could temporarily jumper it to bypass it.
For wiring diagrams, look en eBay and places that sell used automotive literature.
Welcome to Lloyd's Automobile Literature is a place I've bought from and have been happy with.
#12
I did find a gray/yellow wire in the haynes manual for 86 going from the NSS to the engine control module. The details in the haynes manual are not all that good as they are pretty basic.
As for the clicking on the drivers side...that is likely you MAP sensor and is normal for it to do that from my understanding. Chris can comment more on that.
As for the clicking on the drivers side...that is likely you MAP sensor and is normal for it to do that from my understanding. Chris can comment more on that.
#13
I can't say I remember where the starter solenoids are located on vans.
#14
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
17 Posts
As for jumping the NSS, do it directly at the connector on the transmission. Jump the two Red/Blue wires together in the connector.
The NSS can fail as described because it can get contaminated and shorted by transmission fluid, and or oil from the engine.
#15
...well its been a while. I was able to find the issue. It was wire damaged from rodents. Now I have a new issue. Its been starting great, for weeks. I did carb rebuild, new fuel pump. Everything was running great. Now it sounds like a dead battery. But battery is test good, and new starter installed. Still sounds like dead battery. I really think I have a ground issue. A mechanic and I will be spending more time tomorrow diagnosing. Any other ideas or things to check would be greatly appreciated.
If it matters, today when i first tried to start, it just click, like a dead battery or ground. After some test,(Tighten cable ends),checked fuses, ended up with what sounds like a low cranking amps, but tried a higher cranking amp and still same. And Some wires are heating up as well.
If it matters, today when i first tried to start, it just click, like a dead battery or ground. After some test,(Tighten cable ends),checked fuses, ended up with what sounds like a low cranking amps, but tried a higher cranking amp and still same. And Some wires are heating up as well.